need help with 580EX ii on my 70D

fastHID

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I only need a speedlight a few times a year, and just received a 580EX ii. In testing it last night in a moderately lighted room, set to ETTL, I could only get dark, muddy results.

ISO seems to be stuck on 400, aperture on f4 and shutter on 1/60 in TV, AV, and P modes. In full auto mode it ramps up to ISO 1600 with lousy, dark results. I set upper limits on ISO to 12000.

This was with ISO set to Auto. I'm reading but not finding my problem. Help please!
 
Solution
Just to be sure: flash exposure comp is at 0, right? And you see the flash fire? Ok, here is an experiment for you.

#1. Camera on M;, f/5.6, ISO 100, on tripod, manual focus, shutter speed something like 10 seconds. All lights completely off (dark) Trigger the shutter, while it is open manually fire the flash towards ceiling by pressing on the red LED. Do you get a well-lit, maybe even overexposed image? If so, your bulb is fine.

#2. Set the flash to 2nd curtain, and set the camera shutter to 1 second. Normal operation: as you release the shutter, flash should emit a weak pre-flash. Just before shutter closes, flash should emit the main burst. With fast shutters like 1/60, and first curtain, pre-flash and main burst are often seen...
yup. exactly correct. and my head is sore from beating it on the wall over this thing.

oh well, I'm fortunate to have Canon repair right down the freeway from here.
 
Just to be sure: flash exposure comp is at 0, right? And you see the flash fire? Ok, here is an experiment for you.

#1. Camera on M;, f/5.6, ISO 100, on tripod, manual focus, shutter speed something like 10 seconds. All lights completely off (dark) Trigger the shutter, while it is open manually fire the flash towards ceiling by pressing on the red LED. Do you get a well-lit, maybe even overexposed image? If so, your bulb is fine.

#2. Set the flash to 2nd curtain, and set the camera shutter to 1 second. Normal operation: as you release the shutter, flash should emit a weak pre-flash. Just before shutter closes, flash should emit the main burst. With fast shutters like 1/60, and first curtain, pre-flash and main burst are often seen as single burst. With 1 second shutter and second curtain, there should be a distinct 1-second delay between the bursts. If you get a real bright burst as you press the shutter button, and a real weak - or no burst at all - before shutter closes, it looks like your flash got this problem:


Essentially, your flash dumps everything during pre-flash due to a faulty IGBT transistor, and has nothing left for the main burst. This is important. If Canon service replaces the IGBT without addressing the main problem (arcing around the bulb), it is likely to fail again.
 
Just to be sure: flash exposure comp is at 0, right? And you see the flash fire? Ok, here is an experiment for you.

#1. Camera on M;, f/5.6, ISO 100, on tripod, manual focus, shutter speed something like 10 seconds. All lights completely off (dark) Trigger the shutter, while it is open manually fire the flash towards ceiling by pressing on the red LED. Do you get a well-lit, maybe even overexposed image? If so, your bulb is fine.

#2. Set the flash to 2nd curtain, and set the camera shutter to 1 second. Normal operation: as you release the shutter, flash should emit a weak pre-flash. Just before shutter closes, flash should emit the main burst. With fast shutters like 1/60, and first curtain, pre-flash and main burst are often seen as single burst. With 1 second shutter and second curtain, there should be a distinct 1-second delay between the bursts. If you get a real bright burst as you press the shutter button, and a real weak - or no burst at all - before shutter closes, it looks like your flash got this problem:

http://lpadesign.com/580EXII.pdf

Essentially, your flash dumps everything during pre-flash due to a faulty IGBT transistor, and has nothing left for the main burst. This is important. If Canon service replaces the IGBT without addressing the main problem (arcing around the bulb), it is likely to fail again.
Based on the one test shot you posted, it's obvious that the flash did not even fire (on that one shot). From everything you have written so far it seems possible the the flash itself is defective.

But if it's just that one photo that the flash didn't fire, be aware that if any settings have been made on the flash itself, those settings will OVERRIDE your camera settings. The first thing you need to do is clear all the custom settings in the 580 EXII flash. If you purchased this item on eBay, and it was an open box item, it's entirely possible that someone could have changed settings in the flash itself.

I had a problem with one of my 580 flashes that caused me to overexpose some shots, and it had me stumped. I looked at all the settings and could not figure it out. I called Canon CPS and they had me check some settings in the flash itself, and on the camera. I turned out that something was set wrong and it was on a menu that I never remembered going to. It's likely that I inadvertently changed something by accident and caused this problem myself, but I don't remember ever doing it.

So I would recommend calling Canon and getting some tech support by phone before dropping it off at the service center. Doing so might possibly save you some time and trouble.

Good Luck...

Tim
 
Solution
Hello,

I also have the 580EX II and it sometimes has some contact problems. This usually results in overexposed pictures (as the flash seems to fire with full power).

What helps is pushing / taking the flash off and on the camera several times (and taking sample pictures in between).

This kind of error was reported when the flash came out. Maybe there are some older posts still here.

Hope this helps.

Gregor
 
scorrpio, post: 53790468, member: 361203"]
Just to be sure: flash exposure comp is at 0, right? And you see the flash fire? Ok, here is an experiment for you.

#1. Camera on M;, f/5.6, ISO 100, on tripod, manual focus, shutter speed something like 10 seconds. All lights completely off (dark) Trigger the shutter, while it is open manually fire the flash towards ceiling by pressing on the red LED. Do you get a well-lit, maybe even overexposed image? If so, your bulb is fine.

#2. Set the flash to 2nd curtain, and set the camera shutter to 1 second. Normal operation: as you release the shutter, flash should emit a weak pre-flash. Just before shutter closes, flash should emit the main burst. With fast shutters like 1/60, and first curtain, pre-flash and main burst are often seen as single burst. With 1 second shutter and second curtain, there should be a distinct 1-second delay between the bursts. If you get a real bright burst as you press the shutter button, and a real weak - or no burst at all - before shutter closes, it looks like your flash got this problem:

http://lpadesign.com/580EXII.pdf

Essentially, your flash dumps everything during pre-flash due to a faulty IGBT transistor, and has nothing left for the main burst. This is important. If Canon service replaces the IGBT without addressing the main problem (arcing around the bulb), it is likely to fail again.
Based on the one test shot you posted, it's obvious that the flash did not even fire (on that one shot). From everything you have written so far it seems possible the the flash itself is defective.

But if it's just that one photo that the flash didn't fire, be aware that if any settings have been made on the flash itself, those settings will OVERRIDE your camera settings. The first thing you need to do is clear all the custom settings in the 580 EXII flash. If you purchased this item on eBay, and it was an open box item, it's entirely possible that someone could have changed settings in the flash itself.

I had a problem with one of my 580 flashes that caused me to overexpose some shots, and it had me stumped. I looked at all the settings and could not figure it out. I called Canon CPS and they had me check some settings in the flash itself, and on the camera. I turned out that something was set wrong and it was on a menu that I never remembered going to. It's likely that I inadvertently changed something by accident and caused this problem myself, but I don't remember ever doing it.

So I would recommend calling Canon and getting some tech support by phone before dropping it off at the service center. Doing so might possibly save you some time and trouble.

Good Luck...

Tim

--
My latest project (Alaska): http://www.pbase.com/tim32225/alaska_2013
Photoblog at: http://timrucciphotography.blogspot.com/
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[/QUOTE]
 
I'm glad that Scorrpio's suggestion worked for you to pinpoint the issue. He gets the credit for that, not me. I was the one suggesting you clear any settings that may have been set in the flash itself, before you got it.

Wow, Tim, good job!
I followed your test, first result was a well lit room. Second test, 2nd curtain there was an initial pre-flash, then no flash for the main burst.

Well done Tim, thank you!


Off to Canon I go.
scorrpio wrote:

Just to be sure: flash exposure comp is at 0, right? And you see the flash fire? Ok, here is an experiment for you.

#1. Camera on M;, f/5.6, ISO 100, on tripod, manual focus, shutter speed something like 10 seconds. All lights completely off (dark) Trigger the shutter, while it is open manually fire the flash towards ceiling by pressing on the red LED. Do you get a well-lit, maybe even overexposed image? If so, your bulb is fine.

#2. Set the flash to 2nd curtain, and set the camera shutter to 1 second. Normal operation: as you release the shutter, flash should emit a weak pre-flash. Just before shutter closes, flash should emit the main burst. With fast shutters like 1/60, and first curtain, pre-flash and main burst are often seen as single burst. With 1 second shutter and second curtain, there should be a distinct 1-second delay between the bursts. If you get a real bright burst as you press the shutter button, and a real weak - or no burst at all - before shutter closes, it looks like your flash got this problem:

http://lpadesign.com/580EXII.pdf

Essentially, your flash dumps everything during pre-flash due to a faulty IGBT transistor, and has nothing left for the main burst. This is important. If Canon service replaces the IGBT without addressing the main problem (arcing around the bulb), it is likely to fail again.
Based on the one test shot you posted, it's obvious that the flash did not even fire (on that one shot). From everything you have written so far it seems possible the the flash itself is defective.

But if it's just that one photo that the flash didn't fire, be aware that if any settings have been made on the flash itself, those settings will OVERRIDE your camera settings. The first thing you need to do is clear all the custom settings in the 580 EXII flash. If you purchased this item on eBay, and it was an open box item, it's entirely possible that someone could have changed settings in the flash itself.

I had a problem with one of my 580 flashes that caused me to overexpose some shots, and it had me stumped. I looked at all the settings and could not figure it out. I called Canon CPS and they had me check some settings in the flash itself, and on the camera. I turned out that something was set wrong and it was on a menu that I never remembered going to. It's likely that I inadvertently changed something by accident and caused this problem myself, but I don't remember ever doing it.

So I would recommend calling Canon and getting some tech support by phone before dropping it off at the service center. Doing so might possibly save you some time and trouble.

Good Luck...

Tim
 
Did I miss a suggestion that the OP check the metadata? Viewable on Digital Photo Pro or other PP software. Also Zoom Browser I think. Metadata will tell you what happened when the shutter was pressed and also whether 2nd curtain or 1st curtain flash was set.

Also stand in front of a mirror and take a picture. If the flash fires you'll know for sure then - have a vision hot spot for 2-3 minutes though!

Tom
 
ok my thanks to you and scorpio.

this is the very cool point about the forums, we help each other with problems that on our own we'd never solve
 
I had a 430EX ii and I did not have these problems. maybe my new 580EX ii is defective
That's the best clue...if you are using the 580 the same was as you used the 430 you should see no difference until you hit the power limit of the 430. I own both and can not tell shots taken with one from shots taken with the other (I'm using a 7D). I'd say there is no doubt something is not right with your 580.
 
Few ideas:

Is it possible that your flash is set to optical slave mode or set as optical master with firing disabled?

Or perhaps ratio is turned on?

Make sure that flash head is at zero level rather than tilted slightly down.

Are you using difuser or any kind of light modifier on the flash head?

Make sure flash is properly mounted before you lock hot shoe.

Also try switching ETTL from Evaluative to Average. Use 1/200 and F5.6, ISO 800 just for indoor test.
 
I only need a speedlight a few times a year, and just received a 580EX ii. In testing it last night in a moderately lighted room, set to ETTL, I could only get dark, muddy results.

ISO seems to be stuck on 400, aperture on f4 and shutter on 1/60 in TV, AV, and P modes. In full auto mode it ramps up to ISO 1600 with lousy, dark results. I set upper limits on ISO to 12000.

This was with ISO set to Auto. I'm reading but not finding my problem. Help please!
Check out this article. It seems to address your issue:

http://www.canonrumors.com/files/580EXII.pdf

To be honest, I didn't personally bothered to read it myself. But I remember someone had a very similar problem with a 60D a while ago, and somebody suggested this article.

Here's the thread:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1290675
 
Last edited:
Either the flash or the camera is broken.

About the question someone asked - can you see the flash go off?

The flash unit goes off twice for each picture. Once is called the preflash, and sets the automation.

The second is the real flash.

The preflash goes off before the mirror moves, and you can see it through the viewfinder.

The real flash goes off when the mirror is moved.

So when the flash works properly, the preflash is visible through the viewfinder.

BAK
 

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