Panasonic 7-14 - Usage tips for UWA neophyte

Started Apr 19, 2014 | Discussions thread
OP Florida Nature Photographer Veteran Member • Posts: 8,107
Re: Panasonic 7-14 - Usage tips for UWA neophyte

Anders W wrote:

Florida Nature Photographer wrote:

No, I didn't. I assumed the building had blocked it, and I didn't realize it could be an issue when the sun is behind. I thought the problem only occurred when shooting into the sun.

It isn't an issue when the sun is really behind you. But in this case, I guess it was actually a bit on the right and on top of you, enough so to hit the front element.

Thanks for clarifying that.

I thought about your post the other day mentioning trying to shield sun from the right with your left hand and looking funny to other folks around you. I thought that might be a good time to use some combination of the WiFi app display and remote shutter release and just block the sun by standing between you and the camera and fire the shutter from where you are.

Note that the reflections (four different spots) form a straight line. That's a sure sign that the flare is due to a concentrated light source, in this case the sun (although you can of course get the same from a spotlight too).

Great information to add to my knowledge.

Perhaps you have already noticed that the front element of the 7-14 extends forward when you zoom out and retracts when you zoom in, so quite the opposite from most other lenses. This means that the problem is worst toward the short end where you have hardly any protection from the hood.

No I hadn't noticed that. I will pay attention the next time.

A couple of more things about how to deal with the flare (apart from trying to shield as best you can). First, it is sometimes possible to clone it out. If you have it in the sky, for example, that's usually pretty easy.

That I had thought of.

A second strategy that I have seen mentioned (perhaps by kenw) but not tried myself yet is to shoot two frames at very slightly different angles, so that you get the flare spots in slightly different places, and then clone between the frames (i.e., borrow the problematic parts from the other frame).

That I hadn't and I think it could be a great solution for some otherwise impossible shots. I will try to keep that in mind.

As to the distortion with cylindrical things going oblong, that's to be expected at the edges as others have already told you.

O.K. So that is why it is only at the top. The top being an edge, the same as the left and right sides. I was hoping that it was my technique that caused that. I will have to remember to be aware of that.

I was practicing here at home this morning and I see that I can see the distortion in the EVF so I will watch for it more in the field.

Good idea. Also be aware that you can sometimes come to grips with it by using another projection, as I did in the courtyard shot. I use Hugin to go from rectilinear (the native projection of ordinary lenses) to Panini (or something else). Perhaps not what you want to do right now but worth keeping in mind for the future. Same trick as when you "defish" although in the opposite direction.

Yeah, like you said future. A bit much to bite into at the moment but good to keep in the back of my mind.

It's exactly the same phenomenon as with the arches in the example with the courtyard that I showed you earlier here:

And as I showed there as well, there are (at least sometimes) way to avoid it when you find it undesirable (as I often do). Remember that it's fine to play with the distortion of an UWA but there's also quite a few cases where that may not be what you want to or should opt for. I prefer to remain undogmatic in this regard.

I will have to become accustomed to its quirks, the same as I am with the 50-200 focusing issues. Not every lens can be a 12-40 I guess.

In this case, it isn't really to be blamed on the specific lens. Every UWA will be exactly the same in this particular regard.

So with next years' Oly 7-14 we can only hope for??

  1. Faster lens
  2. Sharper photo
  3. Native, no purple blobs

But not lens glare/distortion issues?

Here are a couple of catches with the 7-14 from yesterday's little hike close to home. Would you have been able to tell that either of these are UWA shots if I hadn't let you know?

No. There is nothing there like my ridiculously wide building on the left of photo 5 in my OP. It is very encouraging that there is no glare in the second one. Did you have to fix in post?

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Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 50-200mm 1:2.8-3.5 SWD Olympus 12-40mm F2.8 Topaz Adjust +3 more
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