Here is a Canon 6D Guide for Landscapes. :)

Started Apr 17, 2014 | Discussions thread
OP JoEick Regular Member • Posts: 175
Re: Thank you. But one question

technic wrote:

Wayne Larmon wrote:

I shoot RAW 100% and I know that the histogram is calculated from how the camera is set to produce JPGs (even if you aren't shooting JPGs) and may or may not match the data that is in the RAW file My understanding was that one of the best ways to make the histogram better match the RAW data is to reduce the contrast, sharpening and saturation settings. If you increase sharpening and saturation (as you recommend), you are making the histogram be more inaccurate (about the RAW data.)

I'm struggling a bit with the histograms too. First of all I wondered about this remark:

"One thing to note about the 4 second exposure is that a tiny number of red pixels have overexposed on the highlights of the red object in the image. Without the RGB Histogram, it would be difficult to spot potential problems just looking at the images themselves. "

How can the OP see in the histogram that a small number of red pixels have overexposed, from the tiny-tiny red spike on the right? Is that really visible on the 6D LCD display? I'm using a 450D which has RGB histogram, but much coarser display; I sure wouldn't be able to see such overexposure especially not in bright daylight conditions.

I'm using the RGB histogram on a 450D camera that has been converted to infrared; exposure metering doesn't work well for IR so I rely on the histogram for exposure. In order to judge the scene on the LCD display in LV mode (you can't see IR in the optical viewfinder ...) I use custom whitebalance so I see a mostly grayscale image. The WB is 'off the scale' for Photoshop (without WB the image would look bright red / purple) but it works in-camera and in DPP.

Probably the WB correction is causing a huge distortion to the histograms. I'm trying to judge if one of the channels is clipped by looking at the right side of the RGB histogram but this seems to be unreliable. Maybe not using a custom WB would be better, but in that case I can't judge the scene on the display (all shades of bright red). Any suggestions for more accurate exposureusing the histogram?

I don't do any IR photos, so I am not sure what works best in that regard.

When I have a scene I know will be a keeper, I shoot every possible variation in composition and exposure I can think of, just to make sure I get at least 1 photo right on the money. This is a huge advantage we have with digital cameras.

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