Pana 20/1.7 (version II) vs Oly 17/1.8?? Need help deciding.

Started Feb 24, 2014 | Discussions thread
mh2000 Senior Member • Posts: 2,813
Re: slowness

Anders W wrote:

mh2000 wrote:

Anders W wrote:

mh2000 wrote:

Anders W wrote:

mh2000 wrote:

kenw wrote:

One_Oldman_4U wrote:

What do mean slow? noise? How slow is the focusing compared to a "kit"lens"? Is it noticeable? And the noise? Is it coming from the focusing mechanism? I ask since I'm interested in this lens for my GM1.

Well we should be careful here. It is certainly "slower" but probably unfair to call it "slow". When it first came out and was used on cameras already pretty slow to focus (E-P1) it might be fair to call it just plain slow. These days, with something like the GM1, it will be slower to focus than the kit lens but still focus respectably fast - especially when compared to a lot of other mirrorless systems. In my experience you will notice the slowness even more when you are shooting in low light. It is perfectly usable speed wise for most things. I'd be frustrated using it with moving kids or pets.

As to the noise the focus motor is pretty loud, the loudest of all the native m43 lenses I think. Not as loud as some big old SLR AF lenses I've used in the past but noticeably louder than anything else you'll find in m43 land. It is the focusing motor making the noise (not aperture chatter) so in MF it is of course silent. Again, there are a lot of SLR lenses out there a whole lot noisier so it might unfair to call it loud but by comparison to the typically very quiet m43 lenses it is certainly louder than a kit lens.

When I use my gf's 20, it is noticably slower than even my Oly 17/2.8.

Agree it's totally usable, but it seems to slow focus and not focus more than other lenses. That said, the IQ is really good.

My nits against the 20 is that it produces starburst highlights (some like, I don't).

Any lens will produce "starburst" highlights when stopped down.

It also tends to produce green polygon flare patterns (again, I don't like them). It can render things a little harsh.

Yes, as shown here, you can produce a green polygon flare if you really try:

Apparently, my own attempts have not been sufficiently energetic in this regard to ever produce one. In general, this lens handles flare very well, just as Lenstip indicates. Their summary judgment is the following: "In the case of work against bright light the Panasonic 1.7/20 gets from us a very high mark."

Really, I would pick based on FL. I would prefer having both 17 and 25 instead of a 20... others like the more in between FL.

I would love having the scale focus feature of the 17/1.8 for night photography! If you don't do this, it might be a non-issue, but when it's too dark to focus, scale focus is a great boon!

Hahaha! Well, that may be well and fine for these tests, but living in AZ, real life proves differently!

Why would that be? Unless I am mistaken, it's the same sun we are talking about in Wroclaw, Poland, as in Arizona, USA.

Atmospheric conditions and reflective landforms are typically not comparable.

Aside from moisure and clouds, think Sunny-16 and corrections for snow on the ground.

I am talking specifically about the green polygon flare pattern that you mentioned and Lenstip illustrates. It is caused by having the sun at a specific angle just outside the frame. If you have the naked sun in that particular position, the lens will produce the same flare no matter whether you are in Wroclaw or in Arizona.

very bright regions just outside the frame also will trigger this. Things tend to be naked, bright and reflective in AZ -- sand, light colored rocks etc. There is lots of grass and foliage in most of Poland from what I remember.

Anyway, I have more problems with flare and most lenses here in AZ than I ever have when shooting on the East Coast. If you don't have this problem, it must be the type of different shooting styles that we have.

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