Pentax vs. Nikon....are there any Pentax shooters that have used a d7000 or d7100?

Started Feb 13, 2014 | Questions thread
Russell Evans Forum Pro • Posts: 12,617
Re: AF motor

audiobomber wrote:

The list is OK if you like zooms, severely lacking in primes.

  • AF-S 24mm f/1.4G ED
  • AF-S 28mm f/1.8G
  • AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8G
  • AF-S 35mm f/1.4G
  • AF-S 35mm f/1.8G
  • AF-S DX Micro 40mm f/2.8G
  • AF-S 50mm f/1.4G
  • AF-S 50mm f/1.8G
  • AF-S 58mm f/1.4G
  • AF-S Micro 60mm f/2.8G ED
  • AF-S 85mm f/1.4G
  • AF-S 85mm f/1.8G
  • AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/3.5G ED VR
  • AF-S 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF VR Micro
  • AF-S 200mm f/2G ED VR II
  • AF-S 300mm f/2.8G ED VR II
  • AF-S 300mm f4
  • AF-S 400mm f/2.8G ED VR
  • AF-S NIKKOR 500mm f/4G ED VR
  • AF-S NIKKOR 600mm f/4G ED VR
  • AF-S NIKKOR 800mm f/5.6E FL ED VR
  • AF-S Teleconverter TC-14E II
  • AF-S Teleconverter TC-17E II
  • AF-S Teleconverter TC-20E III

Wide, ultra wide, and fisheye are about the only AF-S primes missing.

Pentax value has always been in the IBIS system, with the Astro feature, the auto horizon leveling, and the sensor composition feature built on top of it. IBIS brings stabilization to any lens you put on the camera. My last century lenses have this century's "got to have" feature. The $200 GPS attachment will track the movement of the stars by moving the sensor in the camera so that stars don't become start trails, limited to pretty short duration though. The auto horizon feature means that as long as you are within a couple of degrees or so of level, that the camera will level the sensor in the body so that you don't have to do this in post processing and possibly lose edge details you saw in the viewfinder and wanted in the photo. The sensor composition feature is like having a four pound geared head on your tripod without having to lug it around, or pay the $300-2000 for one.

EV compensation in manual mode might seem a funny feature, but with a TTL flash with HSS capabilities on the camera, all I have to do is turn on the flash and set it to its HSS mode. From then on I never have to touch the flash again. As the camera's settings are manually set, adjusting the EV compensation only has the affect of swinging the camera's meter one way or the other. The only thing using the metering is the TTL flash. So now FEV can be set on the body without ever taking your eye out of the viewfinder. It also allow for a much larger FEV than what is possible with the flash itself. With the flash already in HSS, all shutter speeds are available for use. You can match ambient, or take the shutter speed up to 1/8000s, all while having your eye glued to the viewfinder.

The Green button doesn't sound like much, but in Av mode it resets ISO back into Auto. With this and the dual e-dials, where you have aperture on one e-dial, and ISO on the other, you can let the camera set the ISO value for the scene, look at the shutter speed in the viewfinder, decide if you want a slower or faster shutter speed, and then raise or lower the ISO with the e-dial, which of coarse does the same to the shutter speed. When you have your shot, hit the Green button and the camera is back in auto ISO for the next shot where you can repeat the same above. Tv mode is the almost the same, but adjusting ISO of coarse is reflected in the aperture instead. Green button again to enable auto ISO after getting your shot.

The Green button in manual mode will either shift shutter speed to match the metering for the aperture and ISO set, or shift the aperture to match the metering for the shutter speed and ISO set. The Green button in manual can also be set to the Programline, where what happens to the setting is determined by what you have the program line set to. AE-L will lock the aperture and shutter speed settings in manual mode so changing one of the settings will keep the other in lock step, ISO will stay constant.

Auto ISO adjustment is also possible. The camera has three settings where how fast or how slow ISO rampsin Auto; Slow, Normal, Fast. Auto ISO range can also be set for minimum and maximum, but can also be easiely over ridden with manually setting through an e-dial or via the ISO button. Mostly I use the Slow and Fast settings when in Av mode. Slow means I'm relying on IBIS and getting slower shutter speeds and lower ISO set and I'm mostly going to be using this on static subjects. Fast means I'm getting higher ISO values and higher shutter speeds, so shooting something with more movement.

Anyway, I would suggest reading the the K-5IIs manual over reading the K-3 manual for a better idea about what the bodies can do. Just read the K-3 manual for specifics about that camera. The K-3 manual is a very abridged version of the past manuals, so it is worth the effort to look at both.

Thank you

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