Shutter Shock a myth

Started Jan 1, 2014 | Discussions thread
Chris Malcolm Senior Member • Posts: 2,076
Re: Shutter Shock a myth

cosmonaut wrote:

Nigel Wilkins wrote:

cosmonaut wrote:

I have been using the a7R, EA-LA4, 70-400mm combo and also the 70-300mm and I am getting really detailed and sharp images. The only thing is you have to go by the old rule when shooting with a zoom. Your shutter speed has to be as high as the focal length. Ect. at 300mm you need to be 1/300th or faster. This images are typical of what I am seeing.

I go back to what I said before if the sensor doesn't move like with the in body IS cameras it's just a matter of getting the camera steady and using a high enough shutter speed.

I sold my E-M1 because of the low amount of keepers I was getting. I can push the ISO so much higher on the a7R there is seldom need of IS.

And what if I want to shoot at 1/100 sec on a tripod for effect? For example, to get a helicopters rotors blurred while keeping the background & people sharp?

I understand needing different settings for different effects. But explain to me how a fixed sensor, made in to the PC board and fixed into the camera can move inside the camera? If the camera is sufficiently supported and secured enough not to move it really doesn't matter how hard the shutter hits or how loud it is. I think if there is an issue at all it's a lens issue.

Try this simple experiment. Mount the camera on a tripod or monopod. Don’t let the feet touch the ground, hold it up in the air by the feet. Fire the shutter with a 10 sec delay. You will be able to feel the shutter going off in your hands, the shock transmitted from shutter to camera body to tripod & down the tripod legs to your hand. In fact it's a useful way of telling when the delayed shutter has gone off on a high overhead shot when it's too noisy to hear the sound.

If you can feel the clack of shutter with your hand on the tripod feet that proves the camera is jolted by it.

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Chris Malcolm

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