Finally upgraded to SX50

Started Dec 6, 2013 | Discussions thread
Dougbm_2 Regular Member • Posts: 450
Re: Finally upgraded to SX50

Cybertony wrote:

Hi Jay7h,

Thanks! What I said in a earlier comment was that I rely quite a lot on Exposure Compensation adjustments, which nearly always end up in the minus -2/3 to minus -1 range. When I initially set the level of "darkness" in the image I want by increasing the shutter speed, I then tweak the final settings before I take the picture by decreasing the Exposure Compensation values. Look at Image 2 on my link. This night heron was perched on a No Parking sign in brilliant sunshine yet with a fairly dark background. The sun was to my right and I was directly in front of the bird. In Shutter Priority Mode I increased the shutter speed and decreased the Exposure Compensation values to the point where the background darkened, yet the bird was still brightly illuminated. I wasn't even thinking about the aperture values at all, and in fact, I really never do. I was told that using Exposure Compensation is perhaps more effective in Aperture Priority Mode but I've only taken a few shots in this mode. Anyway, this is how I get my dark backgrounds when the conditions are just right, that is, brilliant sunlight on the subject positioned in an area of relative darkness. Obviously, I make it a point to find these favorable situations and position myself to exploit the lighting angles and contrasts.

I can't begin to tell you how these things work out from a technical standpoint as I lack that type of knowledge. I just shoot in Shutter priority Mode and spin the dials until I see what I like in the LCD and fortunately, some people like my results. In post-processing I can then further decrease the black levels without losing any degree of brightness on the subject. Otherwise, if you don't have an image with an extreme light & dark contrast to begin with, and then if you increase or decrease the "Levels" in post the entire image is affected. That doesn't happen with this technique. The final image then seems to leap off the screen. You just have to have a situation of extreme contrast between bright sunlight on the subject and a relatively darker background to have any success at getting that type of image when making the camera adjustments.

I'm not sure if any of this makes any sense but it's basic strategy I use with regard to the settings I use on my SX50 & SX40 but I hope you find some value in my non-technical explanation!


Tony. Impressive images from a bridge camera.

However whether you shoot in Tv / Av or whatever has NO effect on image darkness.

That is determined by your ISO and exposure comp and metering setting.

You are quite correct to set a small sensored camera ( and most modern cmos sensored cameras) to under expose a bit ( -.3 or -2/3) as they are prone to blowing highlights and EV -1 will explain the 'darkness" of your images. Exposure comp works the same in AV or TV. Basically you are telling the camera to use its metering but make it darker please by x amount.

In Av you are choosing to control aperture and hence depth of field and in Tv you choose to control shutter speed and hence control camera shake.

You wisely use shutter priority with a super zoom to control any camera shake. The accepted formula is to match the focal length with the shutter speed. eg for a 100mm (35mm equivalent) zoom set speed at 1/100 sec for 300mm 1/300sec for 600mm 1/600sec etc. Of course the camera IS will help too but this is good guide. At the max of 1200mm on your SX50 I would allow for 2 stops help from the IS meaning min shutter speed should be 1/300 sec.

Cheers Doug

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