What if you had $5000?

Started Nov 9, 2013 | Discussions thread
windsprite Senior Member • Posts: 2,498
Re: Good info on FF Lenses

dave gaines wrote:

windsprite wrote:

Dave wrote: ... For $5000 I'd suggest a full frame body and the best f/2.8 lenses. It's all about the lenses. A good choice is the D610 and 3 Nikon lenses. ...

... The D lenses are sharp wide open and still have a lot of fans, but the newer ones (G) are even sharper and have better contrast and bokeh.

Thanks Julie. That's good to know. I haven't figured out what the differences are yet, besides having an aperture ring on the D lenses.

Often the D lenses have no built-in motors and have to be driven by the camera, but it's not always the case. The newer 300/4 is an AF-S (internal motor) lens that has an aperture ring.

The system is confusing, because Nikon have taken pains to make sure the older lenses remain as compatible as possible with the new cameras. Which is a good thing, IME. Ken Rockwell's site does the best job of explaining and clarifying this stuff.

And I'm not sure how you can use an aperture ring when the camera is controlling exposure and aperture either in manual mode or auto.

There's a menu setting that allows you to choose whether to use the aperture ring or the command dial. I always use the command dial, because I don't want to be unconsciously reaching for the aperture ring when I have a G lens mounted! So I have no idea how the P and S modes function when you have chosen to use the aperture ring. Probably they don't, and you have to set the camera to use the command dial for these modes.

With the old manual Ai/AiS lenses, I don't think there is any way to change the aperture with the command dial, but I could be wrong. I haven't really explored this, because with the Nikons I only ever use M or A mode anyway.

I also tried the 85/1.8G against the 85/1.4G, and although the f/1.4G has visibly better bokeh, the two G lenses are so close that if I were upgrading my 85/1.8D (I'm not), I would definitely take the 1.8G over the 1.4G and save the balance of my money for something else. ...

Good advice. This confirms everything I've read in lens reviews so far.

You may find that wide open, the fast Nikkors have more CA than you are used to seeing on four thirds, but ...

I wonder? If you shoot wide open maybe you should avoid shooting into the bright light or high contrast scenes, where CA is likely to occur.

I shoot wide open when the light falls and in that situation there is less contrast. For DDOF control in bright situations it may be important to choosebackgrounds with less contrast.

I guess I should have said bokeh fringing. With the 85/1.8D, I've seen it even shooting street scenes on a very low-contrast, rainy day. I also shoot at night, and the lights in the background often show fringing. It's not so intrusive that I particularly care about it most of the time, but I mentioned it because it may bother some people. (In my brief comparison with the G version, I didn't think newer lens performed any better in this regard, but it's a better lens in almost every other way.)


I picked up a used copy of the 70-200/2.8 AF-S VR, version one, from a friend locally for about half price.

I have this lens. Love it, though I know the VRII improves on it in most ways.

The VRI has a reputation for having soft corners on FF, but this shouldn't be a problem for event/portrait shooting. Even for landscapes, I find it sharp into the corners at the apertures you would normally use for that kind of shooting. That's on the 12MP D700, though. A 24MP or 36MP sensor might reveal corner softness upon pixel peeping.

Yes, the lens reviews confirm all of this. Vignette happens on all lenses, this one a bit more than somezooms and most primes. The big advantage of the 70-200/2.8, version one is that it has focus stop buttons and it does not exhibit the reduction in focal length at close focus that version two, VRII suffers from. Read the review at SLR Gear for an explanation of this.

I'm aware of the focus breathing on the VRII. I don't know that people are finding it a huge problem in real-life shooting, though.

As far as the focus stop buttons, I've found no particular use for them, maybe because I use the AF-ON focusing method (back-button AF). Never touch 'em.

The version one lens hood is larger/longer too, which can be an advantage if you're shooting into bright light. IMHO VRII has a better, more useful focus limiting switch, from 5 m to infinity rather than 2.5 m to infinity. The focus limit switch on the Olympus 35-100 is much more useul.

Like Ga says, you should probably use the 70-200 for a while before you make that determination!

I will miss the Olympus lenses.

Probably you will miss some. Others, not so much. And there will be still others for which there is no substitute at all in the four thirds system.


 windsprite's gear list:windsprite's gear list
Fujifilm FinePix F100fd Fujifilm FinePix F550 EXR Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ200 Nikon D2H Nikon D300 +40 more
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