Mirrorless DSLR..sorry but they are pretty crap

Started Oct 30, 2013 | Discussions thread
sgoldswo Veteran Member • Posts: 5,717
Re: With respect...

chlamchowder wrote:

Sorry, you mistake what I said, I said I can see if the WB is incorrect. That's true because the image has a cast. It may not be move the sliders in LR accurate, but I can see if tungsten lighting has thrown the camera off.

No, the image on the cameras screen is still much more useful for DR purposes because you can see areas of over and under exposure (and a histogram) on the EVF. if that isn't useful, even to someone who processes from RAW, I don't know what is.

I guess the fundamental difference here is that I am concerned about getting the shot in the first place. Details like WB and exposure can be taken care of later, and anything that tempts you to waste time during a shoot making adjustments that can be made latter is a disadvantage.

That's why I don't see either of those points as an advantage - you're wasting precious time and taking your attention away from the task at hand to make adjustments that should be done later, when spending an extra half second won't cost you the shot.

WB is completely unimportant because it can be adjusted without loss later. Exposure is only important if you land it so far off that you suffer heavy IQ loss when pulling/pushing things in the raw file, but meters in cameras today are good enough that they pretty much never miss by that much.

Making exposure decisions with the EVF/LCD also isn't the brightest idea - they only approximate what an out of camera JPG will look like (and that includes the histogram). Very often, what you don't see in the EVF/LCD is in the raw files. And one more note - I've looked through many EVFs, including the really high resolution units on the a99/77, and every time, I've come away wondering how the DR on those EVF screens could be so terrible. It's even worse than what you get from rear screens, and rear screens weren't that good in the first place (for the reasons mentioned above).

Finally, if you want either of those things (getting a rough approximation of what a JPG straight out of the camera will look like), you can just use the rear screen on any DSLR. I don't recommend it because spending even half a second rotating a dial to change some setting is more than enough to cost you a shot. Make your settings decisions at the beginning of an event, and concentrate on shooting during the event.

I'm glad for you that you just shoot and find the results you like. Personally I shoot a lot more film these days and I shoot digital the same way. I find myself trying to use the camera to get the best shot (adjusting as I go). Any tool that informs that decision is valuable. I don't want to spend hours in post picking from thousands of results. To me that isn't photography.

Do you know what? I save a lot of time in post and have a far higher keeper ratio as a consequence. Anything that informs my decisions is valuable, such as the image on an EVF. It doesn't have to be 100% accurate (any more than the meter on my FM3A) it just informs my continuous decision making (much of which I confess is completely instinctive these days). Besides, if you took your philosophy to the extreme you would be using a pinhole camera... 

Do I miss shots? Hell yes. Am I concerned? Not at all - the time you spend thinking and reacting instinctively opens up new compositions for you. In any event as a prime shooter missing some shots doesn't bother me.

You aren't wrong, for you and the way you shoot. You are wrong for me and I would hazard a guess for others.

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