Mirrorless DSLR..sorry but they are pretty crap

Started Oct 30, 2013 | Discussions thread
chlamchowder Senior Member • Posts: 2,083
Re: With respect...

Sorry, you mistake what I said, I said I can see if the WB is incorrect. That's true because the image has a cast. It may not be move the sliders in LR accurate, but I can see if tungsten lighting has thrown the camera off.

No, the image on the cameras screen is still much more useful for DR purposes because you can see areas of over and under exposure (and a histogram) on the EVF. if that isn't useful, even to someone who processes from RAW, I don't know what is.

I guess the fundamental difference here is that I am concerned about getting the shot in the first place. Details like WB and exposure can be taken care of later, and anything that tempts you to waste time during a shoot making adjustments that can be made latter is a disadvantage.

That's why I don't see either of those points as an advantage - you're wasting precious time and taking your attention away from the task at hand to make adjustments that should be done later, when spending an extra half second won't cost you the shot.

WB is completely unimportant because it can be adjusted without loss later. Exposure is only important if you land it so far off that you suffer heavy IQ loss when pulling/pushing things in the raw file, but meters in cameras today are good enough that they pretty much never miss by that much.

Making exposure decisions with the EVF/LCD also isn't the brightest idea - they only approximate what an out of camera JPG will look like (and that includes the histogram). Very often, what you don't see in the EVF/LCD is in the raw files. And one more note - I've looked through many EVFs, including the really high resolution units on the a99/77, and every time, I've come away wondering how the DR on those EVF screens could be so terrible. It's even worse than what you get from rear screens, and rear screens weren't that good in the first place (for the reasons mentioned above).

Finally, if you want either of those things (getting a rough approximation of what a JPG straight out of the camera will look like), you can just use the rear screen on any DSLR. I don't recommend it because spending even half a second rotating a dial to change some setting is more than enough to cost you a shot. Make your settings decisions at the beginning of an event, and concentrate on shooting during the event.

 chlamchowder's gear list:chlamchowder's gear list
Sony Alpha DSLR-A580 Nikon D600 Sony DT 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 SAM +8 more
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