I posted all my pics between 1/80th and 1/200th from the E-P5 here (29 images = big post)

Started Oct 5, 2013 | Discussions thread
texinwien Veteran Member • Posts: 3,326
This is how I'm operating, currently

Ulric wrote:

Anders W wrote:

Ulric wrote:

BonoBox wrote:

Paul De Bra wrote:

I would say the galleries are seriously broken. A picture should either not be accessible at 100% or accessible at 100% through the gallery page. But alas that is not an m43 issue.

I see the blur in the images now. This is not good. I guess with the E-P5 it is necessary to enable 1/8s anti-shock just like on the E-M5.

from what i read in previous topic anti-shock doesn't help because the problem is not the shutter button but the shutter mechanism that moves the curtains

The main problem seems to be caused by the shutter closure after-shock vibrations as it slams shut just before the shutter runs for the exposure. So anti-shock delay of appropriate duration does help. Some say 1/8 second helps but from extensive testing by Anders (from memory) it seems that a painful 2 seconds was needed to eliminate the shutter closure shock properly.

Regards..... Guy

I have started holding the camera body with both hands and it helps better than anti-shock.

If you mean holding the body itself with both hands rather than supporting the lens with the left hand, yes that's likely to be better from a shutter-shock point of view if the lens is short and light enough to permit it. Abstaining from much in the way of head support is likely to be helpful as well. The likely reasons are spelled out here:


For longer and heavier lens, things get more complicated because the center of gravity moves away from the shutter horizontally, increasing the risk that the shutter movement forms a moment arm no matter how you hold the camera and because you need to cradle the lens and/or use increased head support to prevent things from shaking on grounds other than shutter shock.

Yeah, that's the thread that gave me the idea. I tried a pistol grip, noted that it works but is clumsy, tried the double-handed grip and noted that it too was very efficient. I don't have any MFT lens heavier than the 75, which is perfectly ok to use like that.

It does feel awkward, though, after many years of supporting the lens with the left hand.

I have also switched from holding my left hand under body / lens as I used to do with a DSLR.

Now I either hold my left hand under the body, or on the left side of the camera, or a combination, with my left thumb under the body and the rest of my left hand on the left side of the camera.

Also, I have found that I get better results if I don't press the camera hard against the ridge over my eye. Rather, I hold it so that it either doesn't touch my face (using the EVF here) or that it just barely comes into contact with the ridge over my (right) eye.

With the E-M5, I get better results w/r/t shutter shock using the technique on the left than using the technique on the right. That's right, my technique with the E-M5 is similar to the one with the red X, and not the one with the green check mark.

I was be pretty proud of my steady camera-holding technique when working with a DSLR sans stabilization. I had my breathing under control and managed a pretty good success rate with shutter speeds significantly slower than the 1/EFL 'safe' speed.

That same technique is not only not necessary with the E-M5, it seems to be detrimental, at least in my case.

I also have a pistol grip - I usually reserve it for use with my 100-300mm when I can't use a tripod, like, for instance, on a jeep safari.

 texinwien's gear list:texinwien's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM5 Olympus E-M5 II Olympus 12-40mm F2.8 OnePlus One Canon EOS 300D +20 more
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