I posted all my pics between 1/80th and 1/200th from the E-P5 here (29 images = big post)

Started Oct 5, 2013 | Discussions thread
Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,466
Re: Thanks for the tip. Now I see it.

Guy Parsons wrote:

BonoBox wrote:

Paul De Bra wrote:

I would say the galleries are seriously broken. A picture should either not be accessible at 100% or accessible at 100% through the gallery page. But alas that is not an m43 issue.

I see the blur in the images now. This is not good. I guess with the E-P5 it is necessary to enable 1/8s anti-shock just like on the E-M5.

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Slowly learning to use the Olympus OM-D E-M5.
Public pictures at http://debra.zenfolio.com/.

from what i read in previous topic anti-shock doesn't help because the problem is not the shutter button but the shutter mechanism that moves the curtains

The main problem seems to be caused by the shutter closure after-shock vibrations as it slams shut just before the shutter runs for the exposure. So anti-shock delay of appropriate duration does help. Some say 1/8 second helps but from extensive testing by Anders (from memory) it seems that a painful 2 seconds was needed to eliminate the shutter closure shock properly.

Hi Guy,

I don't think I ever tested that particular factor rigorously enough to be sure. But I do think that 1/8 s is long enough to help at least some people significantly and has the benefit over longer delays of not making the shutter delay unduly long, which increases the risk that you miss the right moment.

In my personal case, I haven't found that anti-shock helps a whole lot regardless of how long I make the delay. Apparently, I manage to hold the camera such that it's pretty much only the later phases of shutter action that cause problems in my case. But with other holding techniques than mine, anti-shock may nevertheless help significantly.

When shooting off a tripod, I always use anti-shock as a replacement for self-release. Both can do the same thing but the anti-shock performs the first phase of shutter action right away (just like preflapping the mirror on an SLR) rather than later and thus eliminates it from the total blur equation. In this case, I'd use at least a two-second delay and a bit more than that if I am shooting with a very long FL.

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH +28 more
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