The Advantages of DR400 vs DR200 vs DR100 - High Contrast Scene

Started Sep 2, 2013 | Discussions thread
David Rosser
David Rosser Veteran Member • Posts: 3,465
Re: The Advantages of DR400 vs DR200 vs DR100 - High Contrast Scene

Trevor G wrote:

Elyharbour wrote:

I've just seen the same results in Silkypix. But back to LR4.4. Here are exported JPEGs from two RAW files - one at DR100 and one at DR400. Ihe original OOC RAWs looked more or less the same. The window was completely white with virtually no detail. In both cases I then pulled back exposure by -2EV and the highlights slider to -100%. You will see that detail then appeared in the DR400 window, but not the DR100 one. At DR200, the result was in between, but closer to DR400.

So it would seems DR200/DR400 is writing highlight protection to the RAW files, but you have to pull it out.

Yes, that's correct.

DR200 under-exposes by one stop and DR400 under-expose by 2 stops.

In-camera the under-exposure is pulled back up and:

1) In the case of the in-camera JPEG the highlights above 0EV are pulled back under 0EV. This involves compressing those details into a smaller space, which means that the image, above the midtones, is not as accuratelyecorded as below, or as it would be without those extra highlights.

Nonetheless, that compression of highlights is still better than if they are clipped away.

2) The over-exposure is left in the RAW data and is subsequently "recovered" /retrieved simply by pulling the overall exposure back in PP.

When you first open a RAW image with over-exposed but retained highlights, such as a DR200 or DR400 one, it will look bright and over-exposed until you reduce the exposure slider.

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Trevor G
Silkypix tutorials at:

This has been a very interesting thread. I am a new X20 user (less than a week) having bought it to supplement my D700 outfit (I am getting more and more loath to cart around that heavy outfit except on purely photographic outings). As a confirmed RAW only shooter I was a bit confused about what exactly was going on when I shot RAW plus JPEG. Looking at shots of the white patch on my color checker passport in RawDigger confirmed strange things were going on. I have now learned that to shoot RAW you should

1) Select RAW only not RAW + jpeg

2) Set DR to DR100 not any other setting. Interesting point: if you set ISO100 and RAW only you can only choose between DR100 and AUTO but if you choose ISO200 you can choose between DR100, DR200 and AUTO.

3) With the above settings the camera exposure meter is accurate and in fact gives exposures quite close to what you would expect using British Standard Exposure tables BS935/1957 (I know, I know but they are quite accurate - they are a sophisticated version of the Sunny f/16 rule )

Lightroom is very happy with the above settings as is Capture one pro.

I have made a couple of colour profiles for Lightroom but still need to produce a universal one to cover all lighting colour temperatures.

Other lessons I have learned are that loss of sharpness due to diffraction makes f/11 virtually unusable.

Another strange point I have one picture showing noticeable barrel distortion in RawDigger that is not nearly so noticeable in Lightroom 5 yet there is no lens profile in Lightroom - mysterious.

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