Why I love my D200

Started Jul 24, 2013 | Discussions thread
Pangloss Senior Member • Posts: 2,298
Nah, that won't be enough!

mistermejia wrote:

Stacey_K wrote:

Trevor G wrote:

Stacey_K wrote:

Trevor G wrote:

The D7000 needs -0.3EV on a shot like this - if you view the histogram (attached) you will see that the red channel is blown, which of course helps to turn red to pink or magenta.

It's not blown from over exposure, if that was the case the white door in the sunlight would be blown.

The doorway in the background is not as bright, luminance-wise, as the flowers in the foreground. Hover over it with your cursor and take the readings, then compare with the flowers.

Interesting that the same amount of sunlight is on the bright part of the white door frame as was on the red flower. How can it not be as brightly illuminated?

Have you looked at the histogram of the D200 image? The red channel isn't nearly as blown on it with more exposure. At the same exposure as this last D7000 one, the D200 shows zero clipping and actually all 3 channels are fairly even and have some headroom. On the D7000 the red channel is the only one acting this way and if anything, the WB on the D7000 is cooler which should help!

This is exactly the problem I am talking about.

Here is 1/3 under and that mid tone is still blown, now you have an underexposed, flat, unsaturated image that still has blown a mid tone red.

What do you mean, 1/3 under?

Look at the data, it's shot at f5.6 at 1/400. At least where I live that's 1/3 stop less exposure than F5.6 at 1/320. You said "just needs 1/3EV exp comp" and this is 1/3 stop less exposure than the other shot. How far under exposed would I need to shoot to not blow out the red on this leaf petal?

How can you have a "blown" mid-tone?

It's "blown" from local over saturation. Turn the image to gray scale and see for yourself, this area that is blown is 50%ish gray. Hardly what I would call a highlight. Maybe blown is the wrong term, lack of color separation in saturated mid tone reds is what is happening. They over saturate into the same color while at the same time lighter reds look washed out.

If this was a blue flower in the same light, this wouldn't have happened. I can take the raw file and desaturate the red and bring detail back in this area (no exposure comp) but then the whole image looks different and not in a good way (shutter in the background changes color etc) This is the problem, mid tone saturated reds turn to mush on a D7000, but that doesn't happen with a D200.

I do find it comical you are working so hard to adjust the D7000 image using all sorts of software to look like what came straight out of the D200 If you didn't have the D200 image to match what would you do?

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Stacey, maybe you should give Trevor a break and give him a couple of days/weeks to match your D200 output with the D7000

Trevor, i do admire your positive attitude and that is a good thing, and i swear that if you do match your D7000 to the D200, i will take back everything that i have said and i will go out and RE-BUY the D7000. Please don't forget the write down all the procedures you are working on during this process

I suggest Trevor should buy his own samples of the D7000 and D200 and spend all the time he wants (days, weeks, months...) on comparing their output and matching their tonal response curves! Then he can post about it, and who knows, even create a Picture Control that will allow the D7000's CMOS sensor to emulate the D200's CCD sensor!

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Novice photographer

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Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 Nikon D200 Ricoh GXR A12 50mm F2.5 Macro Ricoh GXR GR Lens A12 28mm F2.5 Nikon 1 V1 +4 more
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