A leap of faith.

Started Jul 13, 2013 | Discussions thread
OP CollBaxter Forum Pro • Posts: 12,724
Some intersting findings.

Calinature wrote:

I am afraid that I had to pay the full price which was when there seemed little doubt about the long term viability of the E-system. Anyway, I think that the 90-250 is the ideal safari lens for your region. Sometimes I wished that I had bought the 300/2.8, but the 90-250 is more versatile. Sometimes a big bird flies in really close, so zooming in has its advantages. I have also used the E5/90-250 with the 1.4 tele; but the 2.0 seems soft. I always use this lens with a sturdy tripod, reserving the 20-200 or the mu 75-300 with the OMD. So my bases are generally covered. To carry this big lens, I turn the tripod mount 180 degrees to the top side...you might try that.

I also haven't had much time for photography lately. I am busy farming plus the two books that have been my focus for several years are coming to an end. I am going the e-book route which allows me to drop many photos and slide shows into the written works. Most photos are considerably downsized from the original, so even the 12 mp Oly sensor is way more than adequate.

None-the-less, I am looking forward to a new sensor for low light photography. I have a considerable SHG investment (four lenses from 7-250 mm) so I share the anxiety of what next. Do you think that we will have a new sensor that can focus our big lenses?

Good luck with your new toy...it is a superb lens! Jeff Hart

Howzit Jeff.

As I have stated before. Currently I can't change systems and retain the flexibility of my current system due to finances. I Have always had the bridesmaid lenses ( Bigma , 50-200) but never a lens which I can say well the output is so-so due to the lens and not a bad user. Now anything bad will be my fault either by bad technique or not understanding the equipment.

As to the EC20 well I noticed back focus on this lens with the EC20. This back focus was not noticeable without a EC. I noticed some shoots where soft but then found parts that where sharp. I did a calibration last night and there are some interesting results. I used the E-30 as the E-5 needs repair. I have also found that the the focus systems on the E-30 and E-5 are Identical so one can nearly transpose the setting form one camera to another (With minor tweaks).

Here is the E-30's setting. I use a Spider lens cal and take 3 shoots (Final) at each end , switching off the camera between shots.

90-25 (Vanilla) W0 T-2
90-250 + EC14 W+1 T-4
90-250 = EC20 W-6 T-8

I actually saw a major difference after calibration especially with the EC20.

This lens back focuses. On a E-3 etc it would of been OK without the correction. Not to bad with the EC14 but bad with the EC20. Subject to lens distance would also have given one a varied output . The bottom line is it would not have been great . The lens would have had to have gone in for a camera to lens calibration.

The guy I bought this lens from had a E-30 and when I asked him if he had calibrated it he said "Whats that." . Maybe if he did I would not have this lens today.

So I will check out the setting over the next couple of days.

As to having a camera with a better sensor , well I hope something will eventually come along. If it does not I still have a few years shooting with my current stuff. Olympus will have to come up with a fix for m4/3 and 4/3 focusing and pretty soon as companies like canon have come out with new sensors that have full built in Phase Detect. ( Canon 70D ) .

Thanks for the post.

And good luck with the book. Lets us know when its finished.

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(Aficionado Olympus DSLR )
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away. (George Carlin)
New Seventh Wonder of the World.

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