Worth it to upgrade from an HS10 to HS50?

Started Apr 22, 2013 | Questions thread
MitchyK7 Regular Member • Posts: 131
Re: Lauredis ...

I went from HS20 to HS50, and the difference is night and day for me, but it will depend on what you consider important. Things i've liked so far;

Much faster write speeds to card. I can keep taking single shots for quite a while before the camera needs to catch up. In Burst mode you have choices for 3/6/11 shots per second, with L mode limited to around shots if i remember rightly, and M mode seems to keep going for me, but it will also depend on if you are using a fast card too.

Focus speed is phenomenal compared to the HS20, In moderate to good light it's practically instantaneous and even in low light it's very quick for the most part. If it's really dark it will struggle though, but usually still manages it unless it's something very far away. Also the focus speeds seem to be just as quick at both ends of the zoom, or at least for me so far.

Some of the Adv. mode effects are actually quite useful. The Pro low light mode gives pleasing results, and as for your blurry background (bokeh?) shots, the HS50 has a dedicated mode just for that. It will blur the background out behind an object or person. Bear in mind though, there needs to be a distance behind your subject, or the effect won't work. A workaround for your HS10, which i used on my 20 is to take a portrait shot in Macro mode, as this lower the depth of field and can be quite effective, but it depends on how you want your shots to look. You also need to keep your zoom at the lower end for better chances of success.

I also like the dynamic tone mode for architecture it's great for abstracts of things with texture, so zoom into a brick in a castle and it will give it great texture. There's a few other modes like colour popping, instagram like and they all work well if you like those kinds of styles and don't want to use photoshop to do your own.

The long reach on the HS50's zoom is amazing, picking out detail from the other side of a field, getting right up close to flying birds, animals etc without disturbing them. It's a very versatile zoom going from 24mm wide to 1000mm tele. At 24mm it has F2.8 which can be used to blur out backgrounds, it depends on the distance, i read somewhere you normally need about 4 times the distance or more between your subject and the background as there is between your camera and the subject. So if your subject is 5 feet away, the background should be 20 or more feet away. But that's gonna depepnd on the aperture and i'm sure somebody here will know of a focal chart or bokeh table for different apertures, i'll be surprised if they don't! lol

The feel and layout of the camera is better too, rubber grips where you actually need them, buttons in much better places, except for the quick buttons down the left hand side, they've been replaced with a 'Q' button which opens up a grid menu with various functions on it. You move around with the D-pad, and then change with the command dial. It works very well once you get used to it. But i had to be done to make room for the full tilt and swivel LCD which is great for composing shots where you can't get behind the camera, from macros on the ground to overhead shots. It's nice and bright too so no trouble viewing it outside.

Those are some of the reasons i'm happy going from HS20 to HS50, so imagine it would be the same going from Hs10 to HS50, but it depends on what you need. I can take a lot more shots in a shorter amount of time, the zoom reaches further, and it focuses quicker and better. But if you're happy with the HS10 i'd recommend asking a store for a trial or something, so you can see if you'll notice the same benefits. But for me it was totally worth it!

Good luck!

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