HS50EXR and F900EXR reviews, continued ...

Started Apr 2, 2013 | Discussions thread
Kim Letkeman
OP Kim Letkeman Forum Pro • Posts: 33,428
I feel diminished ...

jcmarfilph wrote:

Kim Letkeman wrote:

jcmarfilph wrote:

Kim Letkeman wrote:

I note that there seems to be some doubt about how bad DR100 is for general purpose shooting.

So I cut to the chase and show you exactly what you lose when you shoot DR100 ...

In anything approaching challenging light it is ruinous and a complete waste of time ... but see for yourself ...


Deliberately shooting at +2/3 EV what a joke. Who shoots that way and recover it later? Use proper metering and I bet you wouldn't see any difference at all.

That statement shows such a profound lack of understand of what the meter is for that I feel for you as a photographer who chooses to learn nothing about the fundamentals. So start by rereading the reason for my choice and see if you can fathom what I was driving at.

Just by using +2/3 EV knowing Fuji cams tends to blow highlight is a sure sign of ignorance and blatant work to justify your claim which in reality will happen only to 1/1000 shots.

I'll wait ...

Now ... as I said, I did not want a silhouette of the lamp. Had I exposed for the highlights, I get no detail in the shadows. They turn to mush if I lift them with such a tiny sensor (sound familiar?)

Then expose the lamp and deal with the highlight (exposed using -EV). Sounds familiar?

*sigh* ... I honestly wish that you knew how to express what you think you are saying, because what you wrote makes no sense. By compensating to open shadows I was "exposing for the lamp" .... using -EV exposes for the light, which ruins the exposure for the lamp.

Opening dark shadows on a tiny sensor creates massive noise and smoothing ... whereas pulling down highlights in DR400 mode does no damage at all.

I doubt that you understood that, but you will have some follow-on quip anyway.

Blasting +2/3 EV on an already bright subject is a disaster.

As I showed, it is not a disaster if you understand what can be done.

Obviously, only you know what you are capable of handling, and I am certainly not surprised that you do not understand the above and consider it a disaster. I imagine you are very familiar with that outcome ...

So instead, I expose at a compromise setting by compensating the meter. Lifting the shadows a bit during exposure allows me to get more detail with less noise and I can pull back the highlights to retain detail there as well, but only if I shoot at DR400 and take advantage of EXR's extended dynamic range.

Again, wrong metering.

Again, you clearly do not understand the purpose of metering.

There are several very good books on getting appropriate exposures for what you are trying to accomplish ... you might want to get yourself some of them and actually read them. The first few in the list here are excellent.


I am certain that you skipped over that entire explanation to make some sort of inane comment ... so have at it. I only acknowledged you because your comment was too naively (or intentionally) obtuse to be left without response ...

I am certain that you are doing crafted lousy comparison to justify your claim about MSize being always better than LSize and then now DR400 being always better than DR100.

Frankly, the effort to try to think in terms that can get through a Neanderthal level of understanding of the fundamentals makes me realize that I should never have taken you back off of the ignore list. It diminishes me to have this interaction and I need to stop wasting my time.

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