Question for Timur Born (or others)

Started Mar 3, 2013 | Discussions thread
OP tomhongkong Veteran Member • Posts: 3,437
Re: Question for Timur Born (or others)

Thanks for your comments and ideas as I to try to establish some good settings for common situations on the X10.

I took a series of shots this morning comparing L with M first at iso 100, DR100, then at iso 400, DR400 (both RAW and JPEG).  Four of the JPEG series are posted below, after processing with LR3.6.  (Correction of levels as far as possible, added clarity, some sharpening and NR to taste for each to get what I considered the best output)  All done on my laptop with uncorrected screen, so sorry if they are not as good as they should be.

My conclusions were:

1. That it was very difficult (but possible) to get output from the RAWs which was as good as the JPEGs using LR3.6 and it is not worth the effort.  I do also have LR4.4 but my laptop is too slow to run it, and I will have to wait for a computer upgrade before trying again.  I probably could do better with 3.6 if I had more time.  I did not post these results as there is not much to learn from them.

2. I could substantially improve the OOC JPEGs by processing them with LR 3.6.  It was possible to recover all blown areas of the DR 400 series by using LR's 'recovery' (for both the L and M images)

3. Looked at at 100% the L images at iso 100 DR 100 looked better to me than the equivalent M images (these and other shots).  However this does not take into account the fact that the L images are larger than M images, and to compare similar images size L images only need to be viewed at 70%.  (Alternatively view the M images at 140%).  Viewing like for like size the improved images from L are very obvious.

4. Looked at at 100% the iso 400, DR400 L and M shots looked to be of identical IQ, however when the size was corrected as above, the L images are still significantly better.

5. DR400 is 'underexposing' as the ratio between exposure values is around 3, not 4 as I would have expected from a 4x increase in iso.  That is good news as it keeps the exposure more in the sweet spot. (I can explain what I mean by this if folks are interested but it would take a bit of time, it is related to keeping aperture/shutter speed out of the red areas)

6. The greater D/R of the 400/400 settings can clearly be seen on the blue and white ceramic drum just left and below centre.

So, my conclusion for good light shooting is normally to use L, at DR100,  and step up the DR to 400 for contrasty scenes, (or even just to stick with the L, 400/400 settings for all of this type of shot as the 'flatter' DR400 images can be fixed in LR).

I now want to look at the best options for low light and will get on to that in a day or so.

Can anyone tell me how the M mode operates?  If the camera is in M does it require a DR setting of 200 or above to make it select the D/R mode, if DR is set at 100 does it always pixel bin (S/N mode)? (or is there some intelligence which determines that there is a low light situation, which switches from D/R to S/N?)

some images follow

L, iso100, DR100

M, iso100, DR100

L, iso400, DR400

M, iso400, DR400

I would be happy to have any comments


Post (hide subjects) Posted by
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum PPrevious NNext WNext unread UUpvote SSubscribe RReply QQuote BBookmark MMy threads
Color scheme? Blue / Yellow