A list of good/bad MFT lens for new owner?

Started Oct 1, 2012 | Discussions thread
shihhan Regular Member • Posts: 307
Re: 45-150 or 45-200

josbiker wrote:

You are right here, but I have made some tests and I cannot see a difference between a 16 Mpx print on A3 and a 8 Mpx print (and that is my main point). Can you confirm that? I understand that if I go further with cropping I reach the boundery sooner.

It depends... but you're right that there will be barely any difference at A3 (people used to print A3 at 3Mpx in the old days!)

The 45-175 in ETC mode gives me at tele end 350 mm x2= 700 mm

The 100-300 in ETC mode 300x2= 600 mm

I think you might have got your numbers wrong here...

45-175 gives 175 x2 (crop factor) x2 (ETC) = 700mm (equiv.)
100-300 gives 300 x2 (crop factor) x2 (ETC) = 1200mm (equiv.)

So i only use the ETC mode starting with 175 with the 45-175 .

The 100-300 becomes soft above the 225 mm and the 45-175 is much sharper at 175 than the 100=300! So I think I gain sharpness with the 45-175. Am I right here?

Yes. With ETC since you're only using the centre pixels, the sharpness at the centre matter more than the edge.

45-175 is excellent at 175mm (but... limited to f5.6)
100-300 is good/excellent at 200mm (but the data is for f4.7?)

Stopping down the 100-300 to f5.6 gives nearly the same (a tiny bit less) IQ at the centre than the 45-175... and at f8 there is no difference.

I have the budget for the 12-35/f 2.8 lens ( if I sell the 100-300 lens and the 20/f1,7 lens!)

I understand what you mean by blackground blurring. But I think that OIS will help for action shots and low light, I guess more or less 3 or more stops. So the nett profit will be 1-2 stops. Am I right here?

Not exactly right...

For low light shots, OIS will help, but you just can't *steal* apertures using OIS... as the percentage of acceptable shots drop with the number of stops you steal.

Say, 90% at +1 EV, 70% at +2 EV, 50% at +3 EV etc... and there is no uniform formula, as it depends how much inherent hand shake you have + lens weight + other factors

ISO performance and aperture will help more for action shots, as you might want to turn off OIS for faster focusing / lower shutter delay +/- panning (which is interfered by the OIS).

So 12-35 X f2.8 v 20 f1.7, you net *lose* one stop, but you gain versatility and AF speed.

Another lens you can consider, is the upcoming panasonic 150 prime, but for all intents and purposes consider it to be nothing but £1000+...

So 100-300 is the *only* native 200mm+ lens at the moment (yes, it's not stellar... but it is still the *only* lens that will give you native 600mm reach).

Post (hide subjects) Posted by
(unknown member)
(unknown member)
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum PPrevious NNext WNext unread UUpvote SSubscribe RReply QQuote BBookmark MMy threads
Color scheme? Blue / Yellow