Yet another "prints-darker-than-screen" but with a twist...!

Started Feb 11, 2013 | Discussions thread
NewsyL Veteran Member • Posts: 5,736
Re: Yet another "prints-darker-than-screen" but with a twist...!

Gilgames wrote:

jtoolman wrote:

Simply turning down the birghtness is not enough. As you have yourself said, it crushes your shadows. Your contrast will have to also be adjusted as well.

If you really want to be serious about this considering that a $1000 monitor is more than most of us may have, is for you to eventually get a hardware calibrator, then and only then will your monitor will be correctly calibrated. Your shadows will not be crushed no longer. Factory calibration is bright, contrasty, and a bit blue.

Then comes ICC profiles!

Thank you very much for your quick response! Apart from the icc profile included with the monitor cd, I have downloaded an icc profile for the monitor from here . It's set for 120 cd/m2, 6500K and 2.2 gamma, so I guess it should be close enough for printing (even though it might be a little bright).

The thing is, I'm not sure which is the "right" way for the pictures to be both viewed in monitor and to be printed. Since the brightness on the monitor menu has already been set to 0, can the calibrator actually set it to a luminosity lower than that AND still maintain shadows and highlights? Will it do it in a way different than eg Catalyst does it? I haven't seen a calibrator's results in person. That is probably the reason I'm hesitant about towards them - can they really make that huge a difference, particularly when the colors already match print with no tints? It only seems as the picture prints just a little underexposed. Is a calibrator able to fix this, even though the monitor itself is set in the lower brightness possible through the menu, and an .icc profile supposedly set for 120 cd/m2 is already being used?

Have you tried the "paper" test for brightness as yet?  It's a good way to get close to your ideal brightness.

Paper Eyeball Technique
A rough method of setting brightness is to grab a sheaf of white printer paper (several pages thick) and hold it up next to your monitor while it is displaying a white screen (full screen Notepad works well) and while the room has its' typical lighting used while you edit. If the paper looks brighter than your monitor, then your monitor is too dark. If the paper is darker, then the monitor is too bright or perhaps you need to increase the ambient lighting of the room.

Most LCD monitors have a native color temperature somewhere near 6500K in order to have whites appear like they would in natural sunlight. Most people still use incandescent or CFL bulbs with a color temperature near 2800K for their room lighting.

Under this traditional lighting the reflected room light off the paper will, in comparison to the monitor screen, appear more yellow (warmer) and this may make you think it is a little darker. You may want to buy some 6000 to 6500K compact fluorescent bulbs, of equal lumen output, for the lighting in your room and use them while attempting this paper method. If these are too blue (cool) for day to day use in your editing room, 5000K bulbs may be a workable compromise.


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