Panasonic GX1 Crash Course

Started Feb 6, 2013 | Discussions thread
Kuppenbender Senior Member • Posts: 2,118
Re: Panasonic GX1 Crash Course

jbrady3324 wrote:

Obviously there is no set-it and forget-it way of doing this,

Actually, there is. iAuto (the iA button on top of the camera) does exactly that. I set the camera to iA whenever I hand it to someone else. It stops them from accidentally changing settings on the thumb wheel, and works quite well.

I have 14-42mm powerzoom and 20mm lenses

I'd say use the 20mm as much as you can. Use the 14-42 for wide angles and when you can't physically get close enough to your subject.

Do not be afraid to treat me like a beginning because, to be honest, I haven't taking real pictures in many years and I've never had a camera this good. I understand ISO, shutter speed, aperture, but I do not truly understand how to tweak them on the fly when using the camera or how to determine if what I am shooting is "off".

You shouldn't have to all that much. Put the camera into aperture priority (A on the PASM dial), forget about Scene mode and Art filters for now - most of which can be replicated in post processing later on a computer, and adjust the exposure with the exposure compensation dial. You can't use the live view on the LCD to judge exposure, that will always show what the camera thinks is the optimum exposure. Take a picture, check the screen and then adjust. Some camera snobs disparagingly refer to this as 'chimping'. If it gets you a better exposure, do it as much as you need to.

I find I take a lot of photos of people, so I tend to stick to auto face detect AF mode. I'll use image stabilisation when using a long telephoto or very slow shutter speeds, otherwise I'll leave it off.

Memory cards are cheap, so I generally shoot in raw and jpeg. That gives me plenty of room to tweak colour balance/exposure etc.. If I need to in post processing. If you don't already have it, Adobe Lightroom should be your next purchase.

Your auto-focus, centre-weighted metering and auto-white balance will do a passable job in general conditions. You just need to be aware of conditions that might fool your camera. In time you'll get better at anticipating that. For now, 'chimp' to your heart's content and focus on composition.

A perfect exposure won't rescue poor composition.

Sorry if this isn't a very comprehensive crash course, but at least it bumps the thread a little.

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