E-M5 | Absolute Best Settings for Big Landscapes

Started Feb 5, 2013 | Discussions thread
Guy Parsons
Guy Parsons Forum Pro • Posts: 30,328
Re: E-M5 | Absolute Best Settings for Big Landscapes
1

BingoCharlie wrote:

I'm taking a trip soon to the Desert Southwest. Lots of opportunity to take pretty desert landscape photos. Many will be around sunset and sunrise. Since I'm still learning my E-M5, I figured I would solicit input on the best settings for the camera to ensure the best digital negatives possible.

A few notes:

* I'll be shooting on a tripod with a remote shutter release.

* I plan to use a polarizing filter where appropriate.

* I plan to process the images through LR, so I'm looking for the best quality RAW files, not the best finished product (or I'd just shoot JPEG).

So, with that aside, is any of this incorrect?

* Use .ORF rather than .DNG.

Keep with ORF. Even if using jpegs all the time, always shoot RAW+jpeg keep the ORF.

* IBIS off / tripod mode selected.

IBIS off is recommended, though many seem to find that it does not matter if left on with E-M5.

* Anti-shock on.

2 seconds anti-shock for a heavy tripod, maybe longer for a flimsy one. I usually double doe and use 2 seconds Timer plus 2 seconds anti-shock. Never tested if I'm wasting effort though.

* Noise reduction off.

Leave Noise Reduction at Auto, that way the dark frame subtraction cuts in at 4 seconds or longer, and is useful.

Set Noise Filter Off, that is the one that destroys detail in jpegs but should have no effect on the ORFs.

* ISO 200.

Yes, lowest ISO when on a tripod if the shutter times suit the situation, ie nothing moving, no wind blowing foliage about (if any).

* Stop down aperture to optimum sharpness depending on lens, but stay above f/8 no matter what to avoid diffraction.

Yes, but do not be scared of f/8 as sometimes it may improve depth of field to look better despite the slight diffraction possible.

Am I missing something? I know there are some tricks buried in various E-M5 menus, and I'd hate to overlook anything helpful on a trip with so many opportunities.

This is where you need an E-PL5 to get the one press HDR sets to work on later if playing with high dynamic range scenes.

But really, it is the lens and its focus and settings that will make the most difference and using ORFs to recover as much as possible when it gets tricky. Try examples with both hyperfocal and infinity/most distant object focus to see which works best for you.

Thanks much for any guidance.

Oh, and don't forget to ditch any "protective" filters and make sure to always use a decent lens hood.

Regards.... Guy

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