The 12-35 mm for landscape.

Started Jan 29, 2013 | Discussions thread
RealPancho Senior Member • Posts: 1,313
Re: PF can be hard to remove in post, whereas CA is easy.

Paul De Bra wrote:

It's common to confuse PF and CA and think they are all the same.

While I am certainly no expert, and by a LONG measure, I'm not all that terribly confused.

CA is present in all images because the lens bends light of different colors in a different way. It is 100% predictable and most if not all RAW converters can remove it quite effectively. PF is very different: it is light from bright areas that gets dispersed and thus penetrates dark areas, especially near the edge between light and dark. In most lenses the color of these fringes, hence the name "purple fringing" but on some lenses (like the Canon 17-55IS) the color is actually blue and on others (the Canon 24-70L mkI for instance) the color is red.

Here's where I have had a little confusion lately. I recently got some odd cyan-looking fringing in a closeup of some flowers with this lens at the 35mm end. I wasn't so in love with the photo that I felt the need to make diligent efforts to remove it, but if you have any suggestions, I'd like to hear them. I put the image at the end of this message.

Since it is unpredictable where PF occurs as it depends on the scene RAW converters have difficulty in removing PF. Note: PF is different from purple/yellow CA which produces purple and yellowish fringes, not just purple.

I've yet to have a problem removing it with Lightroom, but maybe I'm just lucky so far.

I am certainly not arguing that the Olympus 12-50 is better than the Panasonic 12-35

Of course not - that would silly,

but the Olympus 12-50 produces mostly correctable CA and not PF. The example image that was given here has serious PF and I also find serious PF with my Panasonic 20mm f/1.7, so I'm beginning to wonder whether this is a Panasonic lens problem that is not limited to just certain models but is more generic.

It is a legitimate concern, which is why I'd happily replace the 12-35 if Olympus came out with a better alternative. Many here keep referring to a possible mft equivalent to the 4/3 12-60, but I think that's just their wishful thinking. I'd welcome that to be sure, be I'm not holding my breath.

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Slowly learning to use the Olympus OM-D E-M5.
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In any case, I still say that the 12-50's shortcomings in sharpness are less correctable than the 12-35's in fringing and/or CA, which was the real point of my post.

Thanks in advance to you or anyone else who can provide information and/or suggestions regarding the "cyan" fringing in the above.

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