Best DSLR + lens combo for low light, indoor kid shots

Started Jan 16, 2013 | Discussions thread
Alphoid Veteran Member • Posts: 5,333
Re: Sony vs Canon/Nikon/etc on EVF, IBIS, AF
2

tedandtricia wrote:

Interesting about EVF being better for learning. That definitely applies to me.

The core advantages -- for a beginner -- are:

  1. You see what the image will look like before you shoot. Beginners can use full manual from day 1, and not get ruined images. If you're underexposed, overexposed, have bad white balance, you know. As you adjust settings, with the exception of depth-of-field (where you have to hold a preview button), you see what they do. With OVF, you only find out after you shoot. 
  2. You can review photos accurately. With dSLRs, how accurately you can review depends on the lighting conditions. E.g. in bright daylight, the viewfinder will be washed out. This really shortens the shoot-review-improve cycle.

Regarding stabilization, is IBIS + unstabilized lenses generally equivalent in performance to an unstabilized body + stabilized lens?

Stabilization performance is similar -- sometimes in-body edges ahead, and sometimes in-lens. The key difference is selection. Try to find a stabilized f/1.4 lens -- or even f/1.8 -- for Canon or Nikon. Even f/2.8 is rare. Upgrade path is also a little bit different -- with IBIS, you upgrade your body, and all your lenses have better stabilization. With in-lens, you upgrade the lens.

On FF, I think you need new Sony lenses to do a new AF mode I read about called AF-D, but I don't think Sony has AF-D on the APS-C bodies, so if I went APS-C on Sony, I wouldn't be sacrificing anything.

I haven't heard of AF-D, but normal AF should work with any lens (with the exception of some older Sigma lenses from the eighties -- where Sigma had incorrectly reverse-engineered the Minolta/Sony mount).

When you say FF is around +1.4EV from APS-C, what causes that? I'm not sure I understand why that would be, if you're saying the sensor tech is the same and it's not due to greater useable ISO range.

FF sensor is 1.6x bigger in each dimension. This means that it gets hit by roughly 2.5x as much light. This means it does better in low light.

For all intents and purposes, if you take a full frame camera+lens, you will get the same performance as an APS camera would if you divided the aperture by 1.6. The following will give nearly identical performance (DOF, noise, field of view, etc.):

  • 50mm FF f/2.8 1/50s ISO3200
  • 80mm APS f1/8 1/50s ISO1250
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