Getting best Dynamic Range with OMD.

Started Jan 17, 2013 | Discussions thread
texinwien Veteran Member • Posts: 3,326
Re: It's not that difficult.

tom60634 wrote:

texinwien wrote:

I don't see any highlights in either of those two images that I think would have required using an ETTL strategy with the OM-D. I believe you've ended up unnecessarily robbing the end results of shadow detail by being far too conservative with the highlights.

You weren't there. The shadow areas were mostly a black canyon, if the exposure was set to capture shadow details then the sky would have blown out to white.

I know old dogs can't learn new tricks, so I'm not going to tell you how to shoot, but you're wrong, and anyone interested in maximizing DR with the OMD needs to ignore your outdated methods.

FYI, it appears that the E-M5 exposes to the left on its own. If you then unnecessarily expose even further to the left, you're robbing yourself of DR and shadow detail. How does the E-M5 expose to the left? Well, DxO says that marked ISO 200 on the E-M5 is actually measured ISO 107. If you meter your scene and set your aperture based on the marked ISO 200 value, the E-M5 is already exposing to the left by almost a full stop.

I believe you're confusing apples with oranges. If you would have read my post you would have noted that the exposure was made independately of the camera's exposure system. I used a hand held Sekonic exposure meter and took reflective spot meter exposure readings of the areas that I wanted to expose as mid tones.

No sir, I am not. Whether you metered separately or used the E-M5 meter makes no difference here. The E-M5 meters pretty close to correctly for the combination of ISO, aperture and shutter speed, meaning that, had you chosen the ISO and shutter or aperture, and allowed the E-M5 to meter, it would have probably metered very close to your exposure values plus 2 EV. Had you then dialed in ngative 2 EV exposure control, you would have been right at what you arrived at manually, and you would have underexposed the image by at least one stop.

As I pointed out, measured ISO is approximately 1/2 of marked ISO, so whether you're manually metering and setting exposure values based on the marked ISO, or are using the camera's meter, you will be off by 1 EV from the actual ISO value. Apples to apples, my friend.

I would encourage you to search for ETTR in this forum - forum members have done extensive testing of ETTR and exposure questions with the OM-D.

Furthermore, I'd encourage you to experiment on your own. I'm quite certain that you could have taken either of these photos with 0 exposure compensation,

It's pnly ONE exposure not TWO.

Fine. I misread that. I still see no highlights that required two stops of negative EC to protect.

or perhaps even positive compensation without blowing any highlights, and ending up with more shadow detail.

I can guarantee you that positive compensation would have blown out the sky to near white, once again you weren't there to meter the scene.

Perhaps, and I said as much, but there is NO WAY you needed -2 EV compensation. As is clear even from your shared image crops - none of those highlights are anywhere near being blown. You sacrificed DR for no reason here, and your crops prove it. The highlights have been brightened in the edited version, proving that they were not on the edge of blowing out at the exposure values you chose.

I can GUARANTEE that you didn't have to underexpose by 2 stops in order to save any of the highlights in the parts of the images you displayed in your post.

You may be correct, however it was I that made the decision, not an underpowered computer in a camera making it for me. The decision being reached after utilizing a much more precise instrument than the camera provided.

Right, and with all of that added up, your instrument and calculations caused you to throw away DR for absolutely nothing positive in return. Totally your call, of course. It's your camera, and you can certainly use it as you please, but your method will not help other photographers to maximize the DR they can get from their OM-Ds.

The E-M5 has a whole lot of DR. It'd be a shame if you were throwing 3 stops away byunnecessarily exposing to the left.

Throwing away ? I prefer to refer to it as utilizing 2 (not 3, that 3rd stop is your imagination) stops to reach my goal. You forget that the media that will be displaying this file has 6 to 8 or 9 stops of exposure range. The camera has what? 10 or 11, real life maybe 10,000?

Great, so you admit that you weren't actually interested in maximizing DR in your example. You seem to be completely satisfied with 6-9 stops of DR, whereas the OM-D is capable of 12.3, according to DXO. So I'm not sure why you piped up in a thread about how to maximize DR from the OM-D if you're not really interested in doing that, and if the example you provided gets nowhere near maximizing that DR.

It's all a matter of the photographer's choice of emphasis and the conditions that are present.

That is correct, and your choice was not to maximize DR, as you've made plain, so I'm not sure why your input is at all relevant in this discussion.


 texinwien's gear list:texinwien's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM5 Olympus E-M5 II Olympus 12-40mm F2.8 OnePlus One Canon EOS 300D +20 more
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