Olympus E-PL5 IBIS (& Shutter Shock too?) - Very Poor results for all but 1 condition

Started Dec 14, 2012 | Discussions thread
Jouko Senior Member • Posts: 1,428
The idea of antischock...

is to eliminate any vibrations and movements caused by pressing the shutter button and the following mechanical movements.

Let's see what happens:

1. Pressing the shutter button. Movement down and possible rotation of the camera - how much, depends on the shooter, how the button is pressed, how the camera is hold, the camera weight, ergonomics, lens, gloves... You name it. The lighter the camera / lens combination the less power you need to shake it.

2. With (d)srl's you have next the mirror shock. Up - down. Causes vibrations, more or less, the larger and heavier the mirror the more. That's why I'm wondering why there are no larger format digital mirrorless cameras yet. Medium format would benefit more of this technology than mFT. Think about 645 or 6x6, 6x9 cameras... A range finder version would work well, too. Also most noise in dsrl's come from mirror mechanism - not from the shutter.

3. Then there is the shutter: in fact, it is the lightest part of these, and quite well machined to be silent and vibration free. Most of the vibrations here (without IS on) comes from the #1 part, when the shooter is trying to eliminate the camera movements... Remember, all this happens within some hundreds or tenths of a second - you can't wink your eye that fast. The "shutter shock" that can be sensed is mostly after the shutter has been closed, and is tuned up (?) again.

With some 1/8 or 1/4s delay the camera gives the shooter the time to get camera steady again - and some pain with the "right moment". This works also with tripod use - pressing the shutter button can cause some vibrations to the tripod. A bit longer delay is even better - 2s seems to be well thought compromise for landscape-type shooting. Antishock really has just a bit to do with the shutter movement shock.

Focusing does some tricks here too, and if you are using continuos focusing, it can really have some influence in the blurring of some images - and not only through wrong focus. Remember, every moving part in the light path can cause blur.

And then there is the IS. Basicly IS shakes the sensor in the opposite way to the shaking of the camera, and that way trying to keep the light path as steady as possible. All the camera manufactures have done some remarkable things with their versions of IS, OS etc., but every version shakes something: sensor or lensgroup. Only stabilisation that works perfectly with every shutter speed and lens combination is so far the well made, heavy enough sturdy tripod with a good head, combined with remote control or self timer/antishock. Works with every camera.

Hope this helps.

'The best camera in the world is the one you have with you when you need it'

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