Why Nikon D700 and studio flash Godox Quicker 600 & Pixel King high speed sync limits to 1/320!

Started Dec 11, 2012 | Questions thread
Graystar Veteran Member • Posts: 8,373
Re: Why Nikon D700 and studio flash Godox Quicker 600 & Pixel King high speed sync limits to 1/320!

IFY Photography wrote:

Yes, I "know" the principle of the shutter differencies etc. and high speed sync and that it´s different with speedlights and studio strobes...

I also know that I can "cheat" with long flash durations with cheap flashes but then I loose also a lot of power. But these wasn´t really expensive either...

It´s possible that I have missunderstood the flash duration but why it´s then mentioned in specs 1/5000-1/800? Where does that efect´s on normal 1/200-250 flash shooting?

The recycle time is totally different thing and only to continues shooting speed but doesn´t effect to the flash duration or not (atleast if the flash duration is fast enough + recycle time for the 10 fps)?

And why there is then different flash duration studio strobes available??

Next question is that why the flash then follows the shutter speed perfectly on 1/250 (auto FP) setting but giving black shutter stripe to screen on 1/320. But then when I set 1/320 (auto FP) to camera it follows that perfectly?? Now it feels that if there would be setting with only "auto FP" without any shutter limitations it would still work "perfectly" faster than 1/320??

The purpose why want to have fast flash is for stop motion shots and also for short DOF in studio without ND filters (maybe normally around 1/500).

I knew that I cannot do the stop motion shots fast enough with speedlights but I thought that with these Godox Quicker strobes I could?

Flash duration is dependent on the technology used and the power of the light.  That's why it varies.

And while the following doesn't apply to every studio light...in general, the lower the power the longer the duration of a typical studio light.  That's probably why the spec lists the fastest speed first...that's likely the full-power duration.  Hotshoe flash units are the opposite...the lower the power, the shorter the flash duration.  On some studio lights the low-power flash duration can be as long as 1/100s.  So if a shutter of 1/200s is used, half the light will be clipped because the shutter will close while the flash is still burning bright.  With your Godox light, you only have to worry about that when using it at low power and with leaf-shutter cameras.  Some leaf-shutter cameras have shutter speeds of 1/1600s.  So at low power you'll only get half the light.

On normal flash sync, the short flash duration is used to freeze action.  If you're in a completely dark room, you can set your shutter speed to 10 seconds, and take a shot with flash and your image will have no motion blur.  The reason is that the flash provided all the light necessary for the exposure...and it did so in an instant.  This is how normal flash sync works...you pick the shutter speed only to suppress ambient light by 3 or 4 EV (usually easy to do indoors) and then let the flash supply all of the light.  This is why you might hear people say that shutter speed doesn't matter in flash photography.  And when the ambient light is low or aperture is small, that's correct.  You can change the shutter speed and it doesn't affect your exposure because the flash duration is shorter than the shutter speed.  It's only when you get into a situation like I described in the first paragraph does shutter speed and flash duration collide.  But you won't have that problem.

The reason that the Godox works at "1/250 (auto FP)" but not at 1/320s is because at that setting, 1/320s is an Auto FP speed.  The Godox Quicker only works with normal sync.

The reason that the Godox works at 1/320s when the camera is set to "1/320 (auto FP)" is because at that setting, 1/320s is a normal sync speed.

I don't completely understand your needs.  For short DOF in the studio, just reduce the ambient light.  As I said previously, Auto FP is for shallow DOF in daylight, where you're forced to use speeds of 1/1000s or more with large apertures.  But in a studio, that should not be necessary since you have control of the ambient light.  Just turn down the lights.

As for stop motion, that's normally done with normal flash sync.  Hummingbird shooters are the experts in this area.  For shooting hummers, you'll usually see several hotshoe flash units together on a stand very close to the feeder, all set to fire at their lowest power setting.  This gives extremely short flash durations on the order of 1/40,000s, which is the only way to freeze the wings.  Exposure conditions and settings are set so that the flash is the key light, providing all the light for the exposure.

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