NOT OK: R3000 second print (ABW) - lot of regular linear scratches... :(

Started Dec 7, 2012 | Discussions thread
OP NeroMetalliko Regular Member • Posts: 237
Re: On the ink densities...

jtoolman wrote:

NeroMetalliko wrote:


many thanks for the advices, I already watched all the videos, was useful to see it in action, I knew how it works, my main doubts if it is better than canned profiles or not and how much (I use OEM inks).

Yes custom paper profiles are always better than the canned ones as your particular printer was not the one used to make those canned profiles. So YES, they will always be better. How much better, I cannot really answer.

Wow, this is something really interesting and quite a statement, so, based on your experence, the specific CM profile, taking full advantage for matching the "exact" hardware was/will still be better than the "averaged" paper manufacturer custom profile, even if this is done with a much better spectrophotometer?

Another thing I don't know is if it is better than a colorimeter for the monitor calibration or not.

Not quite know what you are asking here but before you do anything with a colorimeter ( The CM is a colorimeter ) You need to begin with a properly calibrated monitor for color and set the correct luminance of your monitor for your ambient viewing condition which MUST always remain the same.

My monitor is already calibrated. I ask regarding how will the CM compare for monitor profiling versus something like i1 Display Pro (excellent device as for I have read) or Spyder3Pro (which I have used with mixed results and sold)

There is a utility to read densities in the software package that comes with Colormunki?

The color munki will read any patch or any color on any reflective surface. There is tool within the CM software to take and measure individual colors.

If yes then it will be useful to linearize the curves in Quadtone RIP (QTR) and get better results than Epson ABW mode.

Perfect, many thanks, that's a great news, this is a decisive feature for me!

WOAHHH Dude! Before you go jumping into Quad Tone Printing and RIPs you'd better get fully familiarized with what your stock R3000 can do with its stock inks.

Yes, you are right, I will go step by step, I know. But I have some reference prints made with Piezography inks to compare and I have seen in my first try that ABW "out of the box" is good but not able to match it. So there will be a lot to optimize and QTR is part of that for sure.

With K3 inks you really DO NOT need to get into Quad tone Printing. Your three stock blacks do and ADMIRABLE job on their own with or without ABW. In fact I get gorgeously LINEARLY neutral B&Ws printing through the ICC profiles I've made with my MC. I don't think I've ever had to use ABW on my R2880 ( Same ink set as your R3000 )

Cannot say something regard icc made with CM obviously, what I can tell you is that I have compared my B&W reference print made with ABW with one made using RGB+canned icc and they look similar. RGB has the advantage of the potential linearization based on the icc and allow for soft proof and split toning, which is great. On the other side, looking deep with a loupe I can recognize that in the ABW print there are less yellow/magenta drops mixed inside gray areas when compared to RGB+icc print, giving a slight advantage for lightfastness probably. Linearity is very similar for both and not at the wonderful level of the Piezography print at all. I hope that using QTR I can close the gap and be satisfied enough (including the possibility to try split-tones). So CM appears to me a good choice for this task.

Still learning...


Learning is a never ending adventure!


Good said 

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