* Wed C&C (No Theme) Thread, Ed. 243 December/5/2012 *

Started Dec 5, 2012 | Discussions thread
Timskis6 Veteran Member • Posts: 9,562
Thanks Dave,

dave gaines wrote:

This is really good. I wouldn't have seen the wires if you hadn't said they were there. The best way to eliminate the wires is to go out to Joshua Tree National Park with me and find an interesting tower of rock or juniper tree to shoot in front of.

I recall seeing someone's blog page about shooting these in very cold weather, below 0 F IIRC. The shoot was an all night, 10 or 12 hour set of many thousand images. He had an AC adapter pluged in to the camera and a lens warmer to keep frost from forming on the lens.

What camera did you use? With 60 - 30 second exposures in 30 minutes (2 per minute) I assume you didn't use in-camera noise reduction, which requires a 30 second blank image for each shot. How did you remove noise? Would you need to using a Nikon D4 or Canon 1D?

The image could be more interesting if the foreground static subject were larger or closer to the camera. Maybe so, maybe not. But it would be interesting to see something silhuoetted against the star trails, even if the stacked exposures resulted in a fully illuminated foreground.

Very fine image. Thanks for posting this.

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No thought exists without an image. Socrates

Hi Dave, I'd love to go to Joshua Tree at some point, I still have never been! Im sure we'd be able to get some awesome star photography out there!

I used my D700 on a tripod, using the camera's built-in intervolameter. I did a lot of research (reading) ahead of time to figure out the best strategy, and ended up with this method. I took all the exposures and then took one dark frame at the end of the night (the same dark frame used for all the images) of the same exposure. Technically this isnt perfect, because as the night progressed the camera got colder and colder, and when the sensor changes temperature there are differences in sensor noise. But this was good enough for me, especially for the first attempt.

There were an incredible amount of stars. For a given exposure time (I wanted f/2.8 and 30s due to camera limitations), adjusting the ISO will let you see further and further into space. I set up a test exposure at 1s and ISO6400 and f/2.8, and then just back calculated to get the correct exposure, and ended up at ISO1600. Many people suggest starting at ISO2500, but there were so many stars that I think ISO1600 was just plenty.

Im going to New Mexico in twk weeks and am debating taking the E-3 as a second camera for night photography. We'll see what happens. In the displayed image, no noise removal was done other than the dark frame subtraction and very minimal noise settings in LR (I think 10 for both grain and chroma).

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'I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list.'

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