Wait I don't care about TTL, I just want remote flash without my onboard flash.

Started Dec 5, 2012 | Discussions thread
JCB123 Senior Member • Posts: 1,272
Re: Wait I don't care about TTL, I just want remote flash without my onboard flash.

paintballnsk wrote:

OK I was wrong. I run everything in manual anyway. Is TTL just your "Through The Lense" metering I guess? I don't really care about that. I just adjust as I go.All I want to do is trigger the Vivitar without my onboard flash in the shot. How do I do that? If I put it on double dash, it takes the main flash out o the picture, triggers the vivitar in manual mode, but then neither flash shows up in the picture. What do I do?

Am I doing something wrong with the command mode? Shouldn't the vivitar delay a little before flashing so it gets in the exposure?

Answer to the question in your title :

Get a bunch of Yongnuo manual flash units and Yongnuo RF603 radio triigggers. The triggers are most often sold in pairs. You need one RF603 in the camera hot shoe and one on each flash. Set the camera to manual, and set the flash head spread and power to suit. The Yongnuo flashes can also be used as slaves triggered from either TTL or manual flash from the camera. Its cheap kit too. The flashes are generic but the RF603 triggers need to be the Nikon flavour. They also make a more expensive flash that does TTL if you wanted that option too. I'd go with the all manual route which is quite easy, once you've experimented a bit to get used to what power levels to set. The only serious disadvantage compared with the Nikon CLS system is not being able to set the remote flash power levels from the camera. Not an issue for me and probably not for you. Either setup needs tweaking to get just the results you want.

Answer to the question in your text

Set the built in flash mode to manual, not commander. Set the remote flash to its slave mode. The issues you have seen is that the bi flash is in commander mode and so sends pre- exposure metering flashes etc, and the slave is in a simple slave mode. It triggers on the pre-flash and so its output occurs before the shutter opens. By selecting manual mode on the bi flash it only produces its output once the shutter first curtain has opened, and so triggers the slave at the appropriate time. The bi flash will contribute to the exposure though, which may or may not be desirable depending on whetheror not you want some fill. Its effect can be minimised by applying negative flash compensation, which will not affect the off camera flash output provided that it is in manual mode.



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