Canon Pro9000 Mark II Best Printer settings?

Started Nov 10, 2012 | Questions thread
OP mistermejia Veteran Member • Posts: 3,340
Re: A big + on that, something is broken....

mistermejia wrote:

jtoolman wrote:

I spent, or more correctly suffered through 5 years of denial that what I was doing was not correct.

And by the way I am now 63 and have been actively in phorography professionally and for my own pleasure for about 45 years.

I was committing every mistake known to man and woman when it came to printing and proper color management. Then it was light a light was turned on in my sttuburn brain.

I spent years fiddling with the color, contrast, brightness sliders and only after spending a bunch of $$ and wasting a lot of ink and paper I would then get what I considered to a good print.

My best advice if you are truly serious about this is the following:

1- Shoot your images in Raw. You have a great Camera. Why would you purposely choose to shoot in JPG and choose "VIVID"????

You are losing almost 90% of your raw image information by shooting JPG. It's like only eating the apple core instead of the complete apple. You can even profile your Nikon D7000 with a X-Rite Color Picker Passport card if you really want to get serious. You'd be amazed how many colors your sensor does not record correctly. Thus the reason to create a camera profile which you apply in LR to all your images in one photo shoot.

2- Yes, edit in LR as it is a non desctructive eiditing tool and truly an excellent choice. Then export to either TIF or PSD NOT JPG.

3- Purchase an X-Rite Colormunki. Yes it is an investment BUT you will NOT regret it. I can not live without mine.

4- Use Colormunki and it's software to PROPERLY and CORRECTLY calibrate your monitor. Software alone, specially when it makes you rely on your eyes is a total waste of your time. Only an unbiased instrument can do the job correctly.

Think about this for a second. If you monitor is for instance a bit too green, which by the way, you would never notice it, as you just simply become used to it. That will cause you to correct or neutralize that green cast in your editing software byt adding magenta. Yes it will LOOK correctly to your eyes on your monitor. BUT the printer has not a clue that your monitor was too green to begin with or that you corrected your image visually. So of course it will print the opposite. Too Magenta. So you then have to make a manual adjustment ( your minus 9 magenta driver adjustment ) on your driver to compensate for that. Which is exactly what you've had to do.

The second you switch to another paper, you will again be facing the same problems.

Once you calibrate the monitor, create custom profiles for the papers you will use, and use proper color management work flow. ALL and I mean ALL your prints WILL look as they are displayed on your monitor screen. As close as a transmitted image device can display ande compared to a reflective image on paper. I NEVER use any manual adjustments on any of my 15 printers both EPSON and CANON.

Printing is a blast when everything works as it should.

I apologize for coming accross possibly a bit harsh but I and many here would love to save you from having to go through the agony many of us have had to go through in the past.

I do wish I had had someone or somewhere to go to for the info we can get here in this forum back in the day.

Good luck!!!

Jtoolman, you are not being too harsh at all, but from what you are explaining it sounds like this is a lot more technical than what i am thinking, so thanks for bringing it up, i appreciate it and will certainly look into it.

Also the reason why i shoot jpeg is, well, franckly because i shoot thousands of photos and i have never been a fan of shooting raw and have no intention to fill up my hard drive that fast. Also and one of the most important thing is that i try to get the right exposure from the very beginning so i really have no need to shoot in raw, really. I would be happy to post some photos for you to see that is not necessary to have shot those photos in raw, at least for what i do. You and other people might need RAW for your personal needs, but that has not been the case for me so far, not to mention the size of photos i print. But i am in the process of buying lightroom.

What is the difference between the $159 dollar one and this $89 dollar one??


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Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro Fujifilm X-E1 Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm F1.8G Tamron SP AF 70-200mm F/2.8 Di LD (IF) MACRO Fujifilm XF 35mm F1.4 R +6 more
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