SX50 no-Lock vs Lock real user video

Started Oct 25, 2012 | Discussions thread
OP Condor Senior Member • Posts: 1,768
Re: More Full zoom handheld at dusk

Thanks so much for your real SX50's user images.

Yes, birds, specially little birds, are really hard to capture at slow shutter speeds since they more than moving, they seems to constantly vibrate.

This allow me to share some of the tricks that I have learned with superzoom P&S and birding.

1.- I use to set the two Customs options in my SX30 for birding (C1 and C2), each one for different situations.

a.- One for when the lowest ISO is the priority (you know, sunny days, closer subjects and when you want and "can" capture the more and better details...

b.- ... and the other for when I just want to get a non blurred image with poor light condiitions (as the conditions you had for your above photo), setting a minimum shutter speed to avoid blurred images (let's say 1/30) and at the same time I set the highest ISO possible. It's a trade-off, and each single machine has different "best" parameters. And in my case since I am an ID birder, and not intersted in publishing the photos but in getting a non blurred image, I use to use the máx ISO.

2.- Both C buttons are set at SX30 maximum full zoom, which is 840mm.  So, when I rapidly turn on my camera at my hips or my chest, it is almost at full zoom when it reaches my eye. Then I use the Framing Assist button if needed, which zooms out enough to locate my subject and I release it to zoom in back. When I half press the sutter it shows me a magnification of the center frame since I had set the "AF-Point Zoom" to "On" on the menu. In SX50 you should add pressing the Lock button before firing.

3.- I use a Binocular Harness, like this:

It really makes a difference when carrying a superzoom camera on long walks, and it helps with steadiness at the same time (I learned this trick in a birding website). And it is very usefull in so many ocasions as in live concerts.

For what it could be worth it,


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