Interiors, D800 & Tokina 16-28

Started Sep 13, 2012 | Discussions thread
Chas P Contributing Member • Posts: 814
Re: Interiors, D800 & Tokina 16-28

RyanWard wrote:

Chas P wrote:

Hi Ryan - what a great set of images - I find some of the shadows a little distracting in the first and fourth images - I suspect they couldn't be avoided though. I doubt I could have done a better job without blending exposures. It's interesting to read of your technique. I am shooting a D700 with a Sigma 12-24 and 3 speedlights. I always shoot brackets but the more practice I get, the better the metered shot becomes.

Thanks! You know, I really should have taken just a bit more time and I would have cloned most of those remaining shadows out.

I only just got a SB900 to use as a commander but it's brilliant! I would say I only go manual and use radio triggers once on every three shoots now, CLS all the way!

Do you think this works better if you shoot brackets? I've found that I can pretty well walk in and throw the lights up and maybe need to make one adjustment to get it right. Sometimes (like in a couple of these) there is a bit of shadow to clone out, but it gets pretty quick to fix it. I used to use CLS, but I keep finding there is always one room that is so far out of sight I couldn't get the flash to pop so I just broke down and got radios.

There have been times when I've had to fire the commander at full zoom to get to the furthest room, thereby having to eliminate it from the exposure by setting it to -- in the menu but it works. I generally have it in the hotshoe bounced up and back and for small rooms that's all I use. Regardless how many flashes I use, i bracket the flash and shutter speed for a full 9 shots and put the lot through Photomatix after lens corrections and 'camera standard' profiling. I tweak the resultant tiff again in LR.

It's worth bearing in mind that the UK houses I'm shooting are generally smaller than much of what I see on the PFRE group.

The first 5-6 times I used them, it was tough with lots of experimenting, but I stuck with it and now it's pretty quick...

The only problem I have with my cheap triggers is that they can't bracket automatically and can't be controlled from the camera. I tried but after adding the SB900 to my 600s I've gone back to CLS.

I don't think the lens if the end all be all for internet sized images - as long as the corners aren't too soft When I send a couple of these to print it may matter for the larger pics though.

I've never used a D700, but the image quality (colors, tonal changes, etc..) are noticeably better than my D7000 and stand up to processing better and I do use the video features (although I haven't yet on the D800, just the D7K).

I don't know what software you are using, but I go all into LR, global lens correction for all images imported with a custom preset for highlight, shadows, etc...make any changes needed, and then with the new version of Lightroom, when you are faced with bad mixed lighting, you can brush or gradient in the correct WB instantly and it works like a charm! Then I export full sized for any cloning and skewing (mot much needed if you take a second to line the shot up right) then back into Lightroom with the edited photos to do a batch resize.

Just for fun, here is the 1st photo from above and the one I did earlier where I removed the shadows and burned the one light next to the mirror for some comparisons.

The criticism, I think, was well founded

It was only meant as a suffix to 'great pics..' The colours and contrast you're getting from a single exposure make me wonder if my cartoonish efforts would benefit from any of the tools or techniques you're using. The white balance is good too.. I'm getting too many strange casts and aberrations.

Thanks for the thread. Nice to see an agent who shoots his own doing such a great job.

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 Chas P's gear list:Chas P's gear list
Nikon D700 Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm f/4G ED VR Sigma 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 II DG HSM Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28mm f/1.8G +2 more
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