Time Lapse questions

Started Aug 16, 2012 | Discussions thread
OP macnmore Regular Member • Posts: 414
Re: Time Lapse questions

Thanks for the input. I wasn't sure what WB to set, but have read from 3800-4600 works pretty well. 4200 is right in the middle, so it sounds like a good place to start for my first try.

Yes, I set the quality to JPEG Normal/Fine and Time Lapse should use that setting. I read that using Raw images, for one don't give you enough images to work with, plus can take too long to process and mess the time lapse sequence up.

I plan on manually focusing and having the lens set to manual focus only.

What's the purpose of the insulation around the lens? Prevent condensation or something?

Astrophotographer 10 wrote:

The difficult thing in time lapses is transitions from day to night which are wildly different exposure settings.

I have seen an example posted where the D800 did that quite well but the poster was unsure of the settings.

I think he must have used auto ISO and aperture priority.

I would be interested to know how that works out for you as I have started doing time lapses with my D800E at night.

I use Nikon 14-24mm F2.8 ED at 14mm and F2.8, 30 second exposures with a 10 second interval and for several hours. 7 hours of that = about 15 seconds of final movie at 30fps so it needs to be quite long.

Image review off as you say helps extend battery life. All noise reductions off. I found white balance of 4200K seemed to produce a pleasant white balance for night skies. Daylight was too reddish.

I did not know you can program in fine or normal for the jpeg for time lapse. I presume that is the quality setting you are setting and it uses that?

Also there is a deflicker option in the menus. I checked mine on. I also presume this reduces flicker in the time lapse and the time lapses I have done so far there was indeed no flicker.

I wrap a cut out piece of foam type insulation around the lens with a rubber band. I focus using live view and the magnifying button on something bright. You could even autofocus on the moon and then turn AF off. I lock the focus down on the lens with some duct tape so it doesn't shift when putting on the insulation or moving the camera around.

If you want to add panning effects later they can be done in post processing software or Vixen Polarie light weight little mount works as a panning unit.

Good luck and please post your results.


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