Other Flashes with 950

  • Thread starter Thread starter Peter iNova
  • Start date Start date
PPS: I have shot hundreds of clicks with a 20 year old Vivitar 285 flash
and have had nothing but better images. My red rubber grip is loosening
after 5000 shots but I don't -think- the two are related and if things
get too bad, well, glue happens.
My grip fell off at about 4500 shots. Just don't totally loose yours at some random place on the ground like I did or you will have to send the camera in to get a new one officially put on. Bryan
 
Ah, I found a picture of this at http://www.shortcourses.com/cameracenter/n950accessories1.htm

I already have the AS-15, bought it about 10 years ago for my Canon to talk with my Sunpack. I'll go ahead and try to get the AS-E900 and test it out with my Sunpack. If anyone has tried this with a Sunpack, I'd like to know. I can't remember the model, but it's a handle mounted flash, not a hot-shoe.

Thanks,
Mike
I've got a sunpack I'd like to use with my CP 950, but it uses a
sync-cord that plugs into a pc(?) adapter. For use with my 35mm Canon, I
used a Nikon hotshoe adapter that has an adapter (pc(?)) for the sync
cord. BTW, Canon also claimed that this adapter for my Canon would fry
the electronics, I've used it for years taking thousands of shots with
that adapter. (maybe Nikon is just following in the footsteps of Canon).

Now, I can still use that hot-shoe adapter with an AS-E900 adapter I
think, but I'd rather cut the middle man out (my hotshoe to sync-cord
adaper), and go with something that directly converts the output from the
Nikon to the sync-cord.

Anyone know of one? Thanks -

Mike
AS-15's cost about $18 plus mailing. http://www.kohscamera.com

It sits in the shoe of the AS-E900 and gives the pigtail plug, I think.

-iNova
 
Saaaaayyyy, wait a minute. I've had half a day of tremens over nothing.

Those damaging strobes Zx(5)Lx was talking about? THEY'LL KILL ANY
CAMERA! Those jobbies have so much voltage and current that they'll fry
anybody's electronic circuit. The only cameras they won't fry are
mechanical shutters on view cameras, am I right?

Now we're right back to where we started. Any modern strobe that sits in
a hot shoe that kills the Nikon needs to be OUTED!

Get out your collection of flash shoe triggered flash units and put a
digital volt meter across the shoe contacts. What do you see? My 1979
Vivitar 285 reads just a hair over 8 volts. Am I playing with fire?
Dancing with the DEVIL? Is my Nikon going to repair in a hand basket?
Not yet.
MY RESPONSE:

I certainly didn't want to leave the impression that all older flashes are guarenteed to damage today's electronic SLR cameras and their electronic circuitry...but some have! It's not only a question of how much trigger voltage some of these older flashes put out..but how sensitive to damage the electronic circuitry of some of theses cameras are. for example..a older Vivitar flash that has a trigger voltage of 90 volts may fry the electronic circuitry of a Nikon AF SLR but maybe not that of certain Minolta models...or visa cersa. How sensitive the circuitry of the Nikon 950 is to such things, I don't know. I recall (but may be mistaken) that to measure trigger voltage requires something more than just putting a volt meter across both terminals. Anyhow, it oes to prove..each case of flash/camera is unique. Thanks!

[email protected]
 
Saaaaayyyy, wait a minute. I've had half a day of tremens over nothing.

Those damaging strobes Zx(5)Lx was talking about? THEY'LL KILL ANY
CAMERA! Those jobbies have so much voltage and current that they'll fry
anybody's electronic circuit. The only cameras they won't fry are
mechanical shutters on view cameras, am I right?
Apparently not. But then again, as Zx5Lx states below, it probably is a combination of camera and strobe that forms the deadly combo. One camera may be impervious while another will fold up and collapse at the transistor level.
Now we're right back to where we started. Any modern strobe that sits in
a hot shoe that kills the Nikon needs to be OUTED!
See the other thread dealing with Named Names.
Get out your collection of flash shoe triggered flash units and put a
digital volt meter across the shoe contacts. What do you see? My 1979
Vivitar 285 reads just a hair over 8 volts. Am I playing with fire?
Dancing with the DEVIL? Is my Nikon going to repair in a hand basket?
Not yet.
And not after hundreds of exposures.

The 8 volts is conditioned down to around 6 by the AS-E900. Nikon's own adapter buffers the trigger voltage, somewhat. Since Nikon flash units reportedly have 5 volt triggers, wouldn't that argue that low voltage trigger flash units are safe? (I mean, how many times do I have to be wrong here?)
MY RESPONSE:

I certainly didn't want to leave the impression that all older flashes
are guarenteed to damage today's electronic SLR cameras and their
electronic circuitry...but some have! It's not only a question of how
much trigger voltage some of these older flashes put out..but how
sensitive to damage the electronic circuitry of some of theses cameras
are. for example..a older Vivitar flash that has a trigger voltage of 90
volts may fry the electronic circuitry of a Nikon AF SLR but maybe not
that of certain Minolta models...or visa cersa. How sensitive the
circuitry of the Nikon 950 is to such things, I don't know. I recall
(but may be mistaken) that to measure trigger voltage requires something
more than just putting a volt meter across both terminals. Anyhow, it
oes to prove..each case of flash/camera is unique. Thanks!

[email protected]
If ZxLx (the five is s* nt) has made a practical point it is this: Don't use a high voltage inducing flash unit on modern cameras. It might be okay, but there is no guarantee.

If I have made a point, I would hope it came out like this: Nikon's insistence that we only use their flash units isn't the whole story. Some very good Non-Nikon units are out there that couldn't harm your camera and the vested interest of the supplier has to be taken with a grain of salt.

The first line of defense against Strobe-N-Fry is the voltage that is triggering the flash. Don't use a flash with harmful trigger voltage. What is the specific number of volts? Nikon won't say. They have flash units to sell. That's why I solicit stories of woe and terror. So far NOBODY has fried a 950 and reported it here (10/12/99).

The more Nikon keeps us in the dark (heh, heh), the more we need to depend on them. I say that this attitude is flawed. They wish to keep us ignorant of how the tool we bought from them works. So they can sell us more stuff.

If they simply said: "Don't get burned. Never use a flash unit with a trigger voltage of more than 15 volts. It could damage the camera. All our units are safe," they probably wouldn't have caused this thread. We would have seen an honest intent.

"To self-protect and to self-preserve," isn't the motto I want to hear.

-iNova
 
Saaaaayyyy, wait a minute. I've had half a day of tremens over nothing.

Those damaging strobes Zx(5)Lx was talking about? THEY'LL KILL ANY
CAMERA! Those jobbies have so much voltage and current that they'll fry
anybody's electronic circuit. The only cameras they won't fry are
mechanical shutters on view cameras, am I right?
Apparently not. But then again, as Zx5Lx states below, it probably is a
combination of camera and strobe that forms the deadly combo. One camera
may be impervious while another will fold up and collapse at the
transistor level.
Now we're right back to where we started. Any modern strobe that sits in
a hot shoe that kills the Nikon needs to be OUTED!
See the other thread dealing with Named Names.
Get out your collection of flash shoe triggered flash units and put a
digital volt meter across the shoe contacts. What do you see? My 1979
Vivitar 285 reads just a hair over 8 volts. Am I playing with fire?
Dancing with the DEVIL? Is my Nikon going to repair in a hand basket?
Not yet.
And not after hundreds of exposures.

The 8 volts is conditioned down to around 6 by the AS-E900. Nikon's own
adapter buffers the trigger voltage, somewhat. Since Nikon flash units
reportedly have 5 volt triggers, wouldn't that argue that low voltage
trigger flash units are safe? (I mean, how many times do I have to be
wrong here?)
MY RESPONSE:

I certainly didn't want to leave the impression that all older flashes
are guarenteed to damage today's electronic SLR cameras and their
electronic circuitry...but some have! It's not only a question of how
much trigger voltage some of these older flashes put out..but how
sensitive to damage the electronic circuitry of some of theses cameras
are. for example..a older Vivitar flash that has a trigger voltage of 90
volts may fry the electronic circuitry of a Nikon AF SLR but maybe not
that of certain Minolta models...or visa cersa. How sensitive the
circuitry of the Nikon 950 is to such things, I don't know. I recall
(but may be mistaken) that to measure trigger voltage requires something
more than just putting a volt meter across both terminals. Anyhow, it
oes to prove..each case of flash/camera is unique. Thanks!

[email protected]
If ZxLx (the five is s* nt) has made a practical point it is this: Don't
use a high voltage inducing flash unit on modern cameras. It might be
okay, but there is no guarantee.

If I have made a point, I would hope it came out like this: Nikon's
insistence that we only use their flash units isn't the whole story.
Some very good Non-Nikon units are out there that couldn't harm your
camera and the vested interest of the supplier has to be taken with a
grain of salt.

The first line of defense against Strobe-N-Fry is the voltage that is
triggering the flash. Don't use a flash with harmful trigger voltage.
What is the specific number of volts? Nikon won't say. They have flash
units to sell. That's why I solicit stories of woe and terror. So far
NOBODY has fried a 950 and reported it here (10/12/99).

The more Nikon keeps us in the dark (heh, heh), the more we need to
depend on them. I say that this attitude is flawed. They wish to keep
us ignorant of how the tool we bought from them works. So they can sell
us more stuff.

If they simply said: "Don't get burned. Never use a flash unit with a
trigger voltage of more than 15 volts. It could damage the camera. All
our units are safe," they probably wouldn't have caused this thread. We
would have seen an honest intent.

"To self-protect and to self-preserve," isn't the motto I want to hear.

-iNova
MY RESPONSE:

I completely agree with iNova regarding the attitude some manufacturers have about using other brands of flash on their camera as well as keeping the consumer in the dark about the maxium allowabl trigger voltage although for most modern day SLR's, it's about 5 Volts. Interesting to note that if one looks at Vivitar's 283 flash which has been made for over 20 years (I believe)...and test a variaty of them made over the years.....trigger voltages vary greatly...from close or over 100 volts on some units..down to 5-8 volts on others. EWhen I spoke to Vivitar they told me over the years, they have gradulally lowered the trigger voltage of units being manufactured. The problem is how to tell which 283 is which. One indicator is where unit was manufactured ( country of origin)...and they can provide a list. Another problem is there were early and late year production runs in some countries...so this too is not always a reliable indicator. Measuring trigger voltage with a voltage meter will provide some clue of course...but I believe one has to measure the voltage by actually having the camera itself firing the flash...not just by pressing the flash's test button while metering. This distinction is important from what I heard. In any case, keep in mind a certain flash (like the 283) may be alright if manufactured recently...but an older model of that same flash may not. Calling the flash's manufacturer may provide a clue of the units actual trigger voltage. Thanks! Zx5Lx (the 5 is NOT silent by the way )
 
Peter,

Wein makes a device known as the "Safe Sync" to go along in the sync path which reduces and regulates the line voltage to 13V (maybe not enough). Possibly this is a solution if used with the AS-E900.
Saaaaayyyy, wait a minute. I've had half a day of tremens over nothing.

Those damaging strobes Zx(5)Lx was talking about? THEY'LL KILL ANY
CAMERA! Those jobbies have so much voltage and current that they'll fry
anybody's electronic circuit. The only cameras they won't fry are
mechanical shutters on view cameras, am I right?
Apparently not. But then again, as Zx5Lx states below, it probably is a
combination of camera and strobe that forms the deadly combo. One camera
may be impervious while another will fold up and collapse at the
transistor level.
Now we're right back to where we started. Any modern strobe that sits in
a hot shoe that kills the Nikon needs to be OUTED!
See the other thread dealing with Named Names.
Get out your collection of flash shoe triggered flash units and put a
digital volt meter across the shoe contacts. What do you see? My 1979
Vivitar 285 reads just a hair over 8 volts. Am I playing with fire?
Dancing with the DEVIL? Is my Nikon going to repair in a hand basket?
Not yet.
And not after hundreds of exposures.

The 8 volts is conditioned down to around 6 by the AS-E900. Nikon's own
adapter buffers the trigger voltage, somewhat. Since Nikon flash units
reportedly have 5 volt triggers, wouldn't that argue that low voltage
trigger flash units are safe? (I mean, how many times do I have to be
wrong here?)
MY RESPONSE:

I certainly didn't want to leave the impression that all older flashes
are guarenteed to damage today's electronic SLR cameras and their
electronic circuitry...but some have! It's not only a question of how
much trigger voltage some of these older flashes put out..but how
sensitive to damage the electronic circuitry of some of theses cameras
are. for example..a older Vivitar flash that has a trigger voltage of 90
volts may fry the electronic circuitry of a Nikon AF SLR but maybe not
that of certain Minolta models...or visa cersa. How sensitive the
circuitry of the Nikon 950 is to such things, I don't know. I recall
(but may be mistaken) that to measure trigger voltage requires something
more than just putting a volt meter across both terminals. Anyhow, it
oes to prove..each case of flash/camera is unique. Thanks!

[email protected]
If ZxLx (the five is s* nt) has made a practical point it is this: Don't
use a high voltage inducing flash unit on modern cameras. It might be
okay, but there is no guarantee.

If I have made a point, I would hope it came out like this: Nikon's
insistence that we only use their flash units isn't the whole story.
Some very good Non-Nikon units are out there that couldn't harm your
camera and the vested interest of the supplier has to be taken with a
grain of salt.

The first line of defense against Strobe-N-Fry is the voltage that is
triggering the flash. Don't use a flash with harmful trigger voltage.
What is the specific number of volts? Nikon won't say. They have flash
units to sell. That's why I solicit stories of woe and terror. So far
NOBODY has fried a 950 and reported it here (10/12/99).

The more Nikon keeps us in the dark (heh, heh), the more we need to
depend on them. I say that this attitude is flawed. They wish to keep
us ignorant of how the tool we bought from them works. So they can sell
us more stuff.

If they simply said: "Don't get burned. Never use a flash unit with a
trigger voltage of more than 15 volts. It could damage the camera. All
our units are safe," they probably wouldn't have caused this thread. We
would have seen an honest intent.

"To self-protect and to self-preserve," isn't the motto I want to hear.

-iNova
 
MY RESPONSE:
Thanks! Zx5Lx (the 5 is NOT silent by the way )

Funny. It is in "Da5ve, Rog5er, and Sme5dley". And who could pronounce "L4uc77ri2ti8a" without adjustment?

Now I'm wrong again. Sigh.

-iNova
 
I was able to use my handle mounted Sunpack 544 with no problems so far (nothing blew up, no auto-destruct, no smoke rolling from the camera either). I must say that the pictures look much better with an external flash. My setup is a little odd because the mount the camera sits on interferes with the camera turning 90 degrees with the sync cord plugged into it.
I've got a sunpack I'd like to use with my CP 950, but it uses a
sync-cord that plugs into a pc(?) adapter. For use with my 35mm Canon, I
used a Nikon hotshoe adapter that has an adapter (pc(?)) for the sync
cord. BTW, Canon also claimed that this adapter for my Canon would fry
the electronics, I've used it for years taking thousands of shots with
that adapter. (maybe Nikon is just following in the footsteps of Canon).

Now, I can still use that hot-shoe adapter with an AS-E900 adapter I
think, but I'd rather cut the middle man out (my hotshoe to sync-cord
adaper), and go with something that directly converts the output from the
Nikon to the sync-cord.

Anyone know of one? Thanks -

Mike
AS-15's cost about $18 plus mailing. http://www.kohscamera.com

It sits in the shoe of the AS-E900 and gives the pigtail plug, I think.

-iNova
 

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