Getting Started With Silkypix - it's easy!

Started Apr 18, 2012 | Discussions thread
OP Trevor G Veteran Member • Posts: 6,577
Re: Getting Started With Silkypix - it's easy! Part 2


1) Drag the Silkypix work window to about 3/4 of your screen size. Don't run full screen. This allows you to position the (narrow) windows for the bottom row of tools outside the work space.

2a) Open the Histogram tool from the bottom icon list (first icon on the left) and position the histogram display either below the Spx window on the left, or just above the icons. You can drag the edges of the Histogram tool to increase its size.

2b) Always compare what you are doing with the exposure tools in the left column with what appears in the histogram - this way you will avoid over-exposing highlights or compressing shadows too much. Unless you want to, of course!

2c) Always check the results of your adjustment, which take place in real-time in the image window.

Some changes will take time (10 seconds) to finish even at preview level - you can speed this up by temporarily reducing the size of the window as much as possibly. Also see 4) below.

Select 100% or 50% to see at a magnified view, and to make it easier to pick abberations.

2d) There is a possibility that the bundled version for Fuji has too much False color control set (aka chroma noise reduction) which could result in smeary saturated colours, especially.

A setting less than 10 is usually sufficient. Check the other noise reduction controls by adjusting their strength. Less is often better.

3) As you open any of the extra tools from the icon list along the bottom edge, the window for that tool can then be dragged to the right or left hand edge, outside of the Silkypx work space, so that it does not interfere with your view of the image.

These sub-tools can be "stuck" together and, unless you reclick their icon to close them, will re-open every time you open Spx.

4) Double click the image in the work window to make it full-screen inside that window. A size-control slider then also opens at the bottom of the work space to make it easy to resize the working image. You can also use a dropdown list or just make fine adjustments with the slider.

5) If doing geometric (lens related) or perspective (position related) corrections open the Grid tool, which is found under View, or by clicking Alt + G. I have a simple tutorial on perspective corrections at

6) Spx saves an ini-type file in a sub-directory (called SILKYPIX_DS) which records all the changes made when you last closed the image.

You can start from scratch by deleting the approximately 10kb file in that sub-directory which relates to the image you wish to work on, or you could simply copy the image you are working on to another folder and start again. The original is never altered by Silkypix in any way.

Final processing:

1) Use the Develop icon (a gear wheel chewing a floppy disk) fourth from the end on the right. Or use Development on the file menu.

2) Select a file name and location - always use a new folder to save to. You cannot save or make changes to the original file, whether JPEG or RAW, when using Spx - isn't that great?

3) Reduce size and use USM if required, but check it using Preview. In Preview mode, open the image full screen (click on the + symbol at the top) to see what will happen with USM, then check it at the other preset sizes which are available at the bottom of the Preview window.

4) Click Save and it's all done.

Sorry about the lack of pics to go with this explanation - I've been meaning to do a full tute for 18 months now. I'll get a round tuit one day...


Everything will fall into place very quickly if you open an image in Silkypix and then work through the various points or steps.

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Trevor G

Silkypix tutorials at:

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