After five days of intensive shooting with the X10

Ray Sachs

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I got the X10 last Friday, literally a couple of hours before leaving for an extended weekend in New York City - my favorite destination to take photographs. I also had my X100 and EPL3 with a few lenses, but spent the vast majority of the time shooting with the X10. And its a keeper. I wasn't sure after the first day or two, but after getting to know it, I like it a lot. I do a lot of street photography and its a very good street camera. Its not quite as handy as a Ricoh GRD3 or GXR with their "snap-focus" mode allowing for really quick and easy transitions between zone focus and auto-focus, but its quick enough to get into zone focus for a session of street shooting - you just can't go back and forth as quickly. I shot mostly in 28 or 35mm modes on the zoom, using it essentially as a couple of primes on the street. But then for my more touristy, scenic shots, I took advantage of the full range of the zoom. I don't usually shoot with zooms, but this one is fast enough throughout the range that I enjoyed it and found it quite useful, even if a small percentage was shot with the longer portions of it.

I shot mostly in full resolution and and mostly in velvia for scenics and Astia on the street. I set up EXR - DR priority as the C1 setting on the mode dial and EXR - SN priority as C2. When the situation called for either, I'd just switch the mode dial to one of those and let the camera make all of the exposure decisions. It does it quite well and I don't understand the finer points of EXR well enough yet to want to shoot EXR in the PASM modes. Maybe someday I'll learn it well enough to just switch resolution and make the decisions myself, but not yet. And I'm very happy with the results the camera provides in those modes. And, I'd rather shoot in full res anytime I can, so the EXR settings are reserved for situations where its clearly needed...

The camera doesn't produce the sharpest photos I've ever seen (even for a compact), but they're fine and I can probably tweak the settings a bit, and the colors and low light and overall flexibility are better than any other compact I've used (I've owned an S90 and LX5 and still have a GRD3, but that's more of a specialty camera). And, importantly, its just a joy to shoot with, as is the X100. I'm a raw shooter with every other camera I own or have owned, but the Fuji jpegs are so good I'm happy to stay with them on both the X10 and X100. I'd rather trade a little off the long end of the zoom for a 24mm equivalent at the long end, but 28 is my typical walk-around focal length anyway, so I see in this FOV pretty naturally. Anyway, enough words, here are some photos, so far all processed in snapseed on the ipad or just straight from the camera. Most of my stuff is processed in Aperture and then either Silver or Color Efex Pro, but on the road, snapseed works well enough.









This is Louis Mendes, a street portrait artist well known around NYC - he does street portraits with a polaroid type back on this big old press camera and sells them to tourists on the spot. He took one of me - I took one of him. This one is better because he's a FAR better model! ;)























A couple of EXR shots - the first in DR priority:



This one is SN priority:



-Ray
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/collections/72157626204295198/
 
Nice series Ray. These look sharp to me so you must be sharpening in Aperture. That was the only comment that bothered me, that the camera is not the sharpest you have used, but your images do not support that statement, they look very sharp to me... thanks for posting.
 
Very nice set of pics Ray.
Thanks for sharing them and hope you continue to enjoy your new camera.

Bill
 
Superb photos, this is what the x10 is all about.

How do you manage to take candid photos without the subject noticing?

What is zone focus and how does it help with street photography?

Cheers.
 
I appreciate the user experience being shared. (Difficulty and time consuming to open images the way you have chosen to do instead of uploading to gallery. Just saying.)

I have read the reviews of the X10 and your pictures look as I would expect them too which is better than other advanced compacts.

The black & whites are far more interesting and compelling. Color ones are okay.

--

"I don't have hobbies; hobbies cost money. Interests are quite free." George Carlin
 
I'll leave most of the technical commentary to those with more of a vested interest in the X10 itself, but I do want to say that by and large I don't notice any sharpness issues with your photos (other than a little subject motion blur) and I'm a stickler for sharpness. I'll trust your word that as seen on your own monitor they may not be as sharp as you'd like, but they are a lot better even so than many photos I see posted.

That aside - you have a real knack for spotting a photo and then capturing it. Your street candids are actually interesting and well composed. I've seen so very many people posting 'street candids' consisting of either a) the rear view of a stranger 20 feet away, or b) people eating at outside cafés from 40 feet away - both pointless and boring.

Yours are really good and others could draw inspiration from them.
--
Art is far superior to "artsy".
 
Wonderful skin texture.
This is Louis Mendes, a street portrait artist well known around NYC - he does street portraits with a polaroid type back on this big old press camera and sells them to tourists on the spot. He took one of me - I took one of him. This one is better because he's a FAR better model! ;)
He's a great model! Where does he work?
My wife's in Manhattan this weekend for a meeting. Wish I was. Love this lake in Central Park.
The obvious comment would be too obvious. I'll pass.
Thanks for your comments and images, Ray. I hadn't decided how to use C1 and C2 yet, so I'll try them your way.
--
X100, X10, E-PL2, 35mm gear etc.
 
Hi Ray,

Have you had occasion to compare the background blur differences between your three cameras, the X100, X10 and the EPL3? I would be interested in your impressions of the same subject shot with all three cameras set to the same aperture, focal length and distance.

I currently enjoy shooting with my G1 and 20/1.7, ( usually at f2.8, close to its sweet spot) and like the bokeh. I would love to get the X10, but am concerned I would loose this effect because of the smaller sensor. If this is the case, how would you see regaining a similar bokeh...? shooting at a wider aperture and longer FL.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Best,
Angus
--
Use your head,
Go with your heart.
http://www.pbase.com/gusmur
http://gusmurphotography.zenfolio.com/
 
Lovely set of images :D
--
Alan.
 
Superb photos, this is what the x10 is all about.

How do you manage to take candid photos without the subject noticing?

What is zone focus and how does it help with street photography?

Cheers.
Thanks much. I shoot from the hip (or more accurately, the waist) quite a bit. I have the framing of a 28mm lens in my system pretty much down to the DNA level, so when I'm holding a camera with that focal length at my waist, I KNOW what's in the frame. Sometimes people notice, sometimes they don't. When they do, its usually a half second after I've made the exposure. I'm not trying to be sneaky or underhanded, but I'm trying to capture human moments of people going about their lives, NOT photos of people reacting to a photographer! Its not hard - just takes practice - I've only been doing street photography a little over a year.

Zone focus means putting the camera in manual focus mode and setting the focal length such that the camera's depth of field (which is quite wide on these small sensor cameras) will keep everything from about three feet to 10 feet in focus. At wider apertures, the "zone" of focus is smaller, at smaller apertures its larger. In good light, you can shoot at f8 (if you're not too worried about diffraction - I don't sweat it for street photography) and keep everything from about 3 feet to infinity in focus. So once you set up the focus, you just basically point and shoot and don't worry about the camera getting the auto-focus right. You still have to juggle aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to make sure you can shoot with both a small enough aperture for a good depth of field, fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur (unless you're going for motion blur), but you don't have to frame as precisely as you would with auto focus.

-Ray
-------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/collections/72157626204295198/
 
Hi Ray,

Have you had occasion to compare the background blur differences between your three cameras, the X100, X10 and the EPL3? I would be interested in your impressions of the same subject shot with all three cameras set to the same aperture, focal length and distance.

I currently enjoy shooting with my G1 and 20/1.7, ( usually at f2.8, close to its sweet spot) and like the bokeh. I would love to get the X10, but am concerned I would loose this effect because of the smaller sensor. If this is the case, how would you see regaining a similar bokeh...? shooting at a wider aperture and longer FL.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Best,
Angus
I haven't done back to back to back comparisons, but I've shot enough with the other cameras, other compacts, and now with the X10 to know its not even close. You don't buy a compact sensor camera for bokeh - if you manage to get some (you can in macro mode and in some situations with the zoom), its a bonus, but if that's what you're after, look elsewhere. The X100 at F2 and an APS sensor can achieve very narrow focus and pretty nice bokeh. The EPL3 with a smaller 4/3 sensor can get tons of subject isolation and VERY nice bokeh with the right lenses. I have both the 25mm f1.4 and 45mm f1.8 lenses (50mm and 90mm equivalents) and can get very narrow depth of field and really really nice bokeh with either of those lenses. That's not what the X10 does well. I guess it does it marginally better than some other compacts, but not enough to really get excited about...

-Ray
-------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/collections/72157626204295198/
 
I didn't mean to imply that the images from the X10 are in any way inadequately sharp, just that I wasn't struck by their sharpness and clarity compared to some other cameras. There's a bit more smearing in vegetation, for example, than in other cams. I can probably play with the NR and sharpness settings and work this out, and its really fine as is. Just not quite what I expected...

-Ray
-------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/collections/72157626204295198/
 
Not inadequately sharp Joel, just not as evidently sharp out of the box as the GRD3, EX1, LX5, and maybe some others. But perfectly adequate and I'm sure I can improve them by playing with the NR and sharpness settings. Or I can just fix them in PP, which has been working fine...

NOT a reason to avoid the camera at all - just something I noticed. I probably shouldn't have mentioned it - don't want to scare anyone away from this fine camera...

-Ray
-------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/collections/72157626204295198/
 
I appreciate the user experience being shared. (Difficulty and time consuming to open images the way you have chosen to do instead of uploading to gallery. Just saying.)
The images should show up in the thread and you shouldn't have to click through - they do for me. I post everything to Flickr and then link to them so I don't end up with the same photos in any number of different galleries and locations. It seems to work for most people - I wonder if some browsers won't show them this way???
The black & whites are far more interesting and compelling. Color ones are okay.
Thanks. I agree. B&W is what I do the vast majority of the time and its how I see most naturally. But I figured with a new camera I should show a few examples in color as well since many folks will be looking at them for the technical aspects....

-Ray
-------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/collections/72157626204295198/
 
Superb photos, this is what the x10 is all about.

How do you manage to take candid photos without the subject noticing?

What is zone focus and how does it help with street photography?

Cheers.
Thanks much. I shoot from the hip (or more accurately, the waist) quite a bit. I have the framing of a 28mm lens in my system pretty much down to the DNA level, so when I'm holding a camera with that focal length at my waist, I KNOW what's in the frame. Sometimes people notice, sometimes they don't. When they do, its usually a half second after I've made the exposure. I'm not trying to be sneaky or underhanded, but I'm trying to capture human moments of people going about their lives, NOT photos of people reacting to a photographer! Its not hard - just takes practice - I've only been doing street photography a little over a year.

Zone focus means putting the camera in manual focus mode and setting the focal length such that the camera's depth of field (which is quite wide on these small sensor cameras) will keep everything from about three feet to 10 feet in focus. At wider apertures, the "zone" of focus is smaller, at smaller apertures its larger. In good light, you can shoot at f8 (if you're not too worried about diffraction - I don't sweat it for street photography) and keep everything from about 3 feet to infinity in focus. So once you set up the focus, you just basically point and shoot and don't worry about the camera getting the auto-focus right. You still have to juggle aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to make sure you can shoot with both a small enough aperture for a good depth of field, fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur (unless you're going for motion blur), but you don't have to frame as precisely as you would with auto focus.

-Ray
-------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/collections/72157626204295198/
Thanks Ray.

Zone focus = hyper focal distance. On prime SLR lenses there is a distance and aperture scale that lets you figure out the optimum focus distance for depth of field.

So how do you figure this out on a camera like the X10? I was taught on SLRs that a good rule of thumb is if you set focus distance manually to 5m and use a wide angle lens at f8 and above, generally everything from 2M to infinity will be in focus.

Do you manually focus and watch the depth of field increase on the screen?

What I do love about small sensor cameras is their depth of field. I hope the X10 sensor delivers at higher ISOs unlike the s200exr sensor that I found to be noisy and too much smearing of detail by the NR. You mention about foliage being smeared and that was an issue I didn't like in the s200exr.

Would be great if you could take and post some indoor portraits in low light at ISO 400-1600 both without flash and with. Skin and hair really can show up noise and smearing more than objects.

Thanks.
 
Zone focus = hyper focal distance. On prime SLR lenses there is a distance and aperture scale that lets you figure out the optimum focus distance for depth of field.
Similar, but not the same because you really don't need everything in focus all the way to infinity. So the concept is the same but it's not as specific as a calculated hyperfocal distance.
So how do you figure this out on a camera like the X10? I was taught on SLRs that a good rule of thumb is if you set focus distance manually to 5m and use a wide angle lens at f8 and above, generally everything from 2M to infinity will be in focus.
There's an electronic depth of field scale that shows up on the screen, so I just watch that as I adjust the focus. Very easy...

-Ray
-------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20889767@N05/collections/72157626204295198/
 

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