What do you consider the effective ISO limit of your camera?

Started Nov 8, 2011 | Discussions thread
sean000 Veteran Member • Posts: 7,356
Re: Large prints vs Facebook - that is the question

mh2000 wrote:

Of course it doesn't, but if I required high ISO performance I wouldn't be using a m43 camera in the first place... that would be "realistic" for me.

Of course everyone has their own needs and sets their own bar for what is acceptable. There's also a big difference between "snapshots" and photographs that the photographer takes seriously. Sure, if my intended use is just posting to Facebook I'd have no problem shooting at ISO 1600, but I always shoot with the intent of being able to make quality enlargements. I basically am only talking about serious photography.

Ah... so you don't take candids of friends and family to share online or print 4x6? Many of us do take our photography very seriously, but we also take photos that do not have to be so serious. Perhaps the OP should have phrased the question more specifically to ask what we feel is the upper limit for photos we intend to print large, provide to clients, enter into photo compeititions, etc.

I am with you for the shots I take with the intention of printing large. If I'm shooting a landscape, architecture, etc. I will use a tripod whenever possible and keep the ISO at base or as close to it as possible. But I also take a lot of candids of friends and family that I might print at 4x6 or 5x7 (if I print them at all), and will probably just share online. These are not shots for a client or a magazine, so if they are too noisy I just convert to B&W and maybe apply a little NR or leave that alone and actually add some film grain. If I stylize the shot using Nik Silver Efex or Color Efex, it will look like a more professional version of those Hipstamatic or Instagram Smartphone photos people are always sharing

Speaking of heavily stylized photos... if my intention was to produce a series of hight speed grainy looking black & white photos for artistic purposes, I'd probably still try to keep my GF1 in the 400 to 800 range if not lower. Then I can at least start the black & white conversion process with as much detail as I want, and add as much film grain as I want. If I have to start at 1600 I might have a super grainy photo but it won't be as detailed (which might be okay if that's the look I'm going for, but I'd rather start with as much detail as possible).

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