MF Clarification

Started Jul 4, 2011 | Discussions thread
modenaboy
modenaboy Forum Member • Posts: 95
Re: S and M are slightly different - S lets you set Auto ISO

I do use the camera sometimes with Auto ISO in S Priority. I don't have much problem with the metering starting to blink, but sometimes it goes too high on ISO too fast - in such cases, looking at the LCD it appears it will expose fine at 1/125, but the ISO is 1600 or more - when in fact it could use ISO 400 and a slower shutter (but still fast enough for handheld). In those cases, I switch Auto ISO off.

Cases where it seems to work well are when lighting it changing fast, such as the very end of the day, or if I am moving in and out of buildings and/or shade/etc. - it usually picks pretty well. Also, I can just grab the camera for a shot anytime, dial up a reasonable shutter speed and then focus and shoot, skipping the (admittedly minor) step of setting ISO.

Another case that is nice is when I am in low light, and have to choose a wide aperture to get a decent handheld shutter speed, but I find the depth of field isn't sufficient to get enough in focus. I'll set the shutter to the minimum I can use without getting shake or blur from moving subjects (often flowers in the wind), and then reel off a few quick shots while changing the aperture, but not changing anything else (and the camera will automatically crank up the ISO). Later, I can pick my poison, the wide aperture might not have been as bad as I thought, or the high ISO with smaller aperture could be sufficient with IQ. Granted I could do this manually, but with the menu system, it is awkward (if there was a dedicated ISO button, I'd probably just use that, but alas...)

I can do the same with shutter and fixed aperture - reel off a few shots changing just the shutter speed, and let the camera crank up the ISO. It doesn't always work, but often I find myself with the exposure on the LCD (and of the eventual shot) looking the same for different shutter speeds, as the camera is adjusting the aperture.

Not sure what you mean by the ISO only going to 1600, the setting range goes higher and I have gotten usable, if not perfect shots without a lot of noise at 3200 or even 6400 (and there's always Topaz NR for Post). Do you mean that above 1600 it is using software emulation as opposed to the sensor itself to simulate higher ISO? Or that it is poor IQ higher than 1600 (or both)?

Also, Auto ISO can choose ISO settings in between the ones you can set manually (such as 500, 1000, 1250, etc.) - not sure if it will do this when you use exposure compensation in manual mode (if you can even set exposure compensation in that mode, I haven't tried).

That said, if I find it is trying to crank up the ISO past 1600 (or the subject matter just causes too much grain at higher ISO), I'll use the anti motion blur shoot mode, and sometimes get better results with that. And the Auto ISO in S mode isn't a huge deal, if it didn't have it, I'd survive fine.

I'm going to take it out of Auto ISO and use M mode next time I shoot and see if I get better results by forcing myself to set ISO instead of relying on the camera.

TiagoReil wrote:

modenaboy wrote:

There is one (at least) difference between S mode and full Manual - in Manual you can't set Auto ISO (the choice is there but if you try and select it the camera says that function is currently disabled). In S mode, you can put it in Auto ISO. Otherwise, as you say, it is basically full manual mode as the camera cannot (and won't try to) set the Aperture.

Are you actually using it that way? When someone mentioned it in another post I went to test it, and it was quite difficult to use. just the minimun change of lighting and the exposure meterring started to blink. It has no range to make it usefull. And with only 4 stops to configure, you might as well do it completelly manual. So thats my point, Go manual, it makes no sense using S. But please if you have experience using this mode with that trick post how good / bad / or in what situation is good for.

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