Olympus 2100

I am looking for a new digital camera, what I am looking for is a camera that has at least a 5X optical zoom and a hot shoe for external flash. I came upon the Olympus 2100. Noticed it has a 10X and a hot shoe. It stated the flash to use. When I noticed the flash was 500 bucks, the bracket was 80 and the cable was 50 bucks...WOW give me a break. Is this the only flash you can use with this camera???? You can't use any of these 40-80 dollar flashes?

hot shoe on a 2100?
10x zoom = yes
Hot shoe = no

Maybe you are refering to the plugin for a external flash?

wirphotos said:

I am looking for a new digital camera, what I am looking for is a
camera that has at least a 5X optical zoom and a hot shoe for
external flash. I came upon the Olympus 2100. Noticed it has a
10X and a hot shoe. It stated the flash to use. When I noticed
the flash was 500 bucks, the bracket was 80 and the cable was 50
bucks...WOW give me a break. Is this the only flash you can use
with this camera???? You can't use any of these 40-80 dollar
flashes?

Click to expand...

--
--
Dan B. (k4lyp)
http://www.pbase.com/wdb (pbase supporter)
http://www.webdeals.net/photos.htm

The C2100UZ does not have a hot shoe. You can use the FL-40 with bracket & cable as you have already stated. (everything can be purchased new for less than $400 at B&H).

Some people have had luck with the Vivatar 285 which sells for less than $100 but you would still need a bracket & cable. Also the Sunpak.

HTH

BillyBob

The 2100 does not have a hot shoe. It's a gem of a camera. Search for flashes. You will have to have a propriety cable to connect to your flash. The flash should be low voltage. Many people use the Vivitar 285 on a bracket with the Olympus cable. The FL-40 is a really nice outfit. I had one, but I sold it when I got a Canon D-60. I still have my 2100 and wouldn't part with it for a walkaround camera with tremendous versatility.

Juli Valley said:

The 2100 does not have a hot shoe. It's a gem of a camera. Search

Click to expand...

If I misremember correctly, it's the 2500 that had the hot shoe. Only a 3X zoom, however. I was soooo tempted to replace my D600L with one of those, but I was still reluctant to spend $1K for any camera at the time. I only relented when the Canon D30 came out.

-Dan-



Oh dear, I shot myself (Oly E100rs, D-550, Canon D30, eyeball)

You guys are correct I stated the hot shoe, but I meant that you could hook up an external flash if you wanted to. Do any of these digital cameras with the pop up flash take any decent night shots? The general purpose of the camera will be taking pictures at a racetrack. Rarely will I be taking pictures at night, but sometimes I might be if the other photographer can't make it.

Thanks for the info, anymore input would be helpful thanks!

LOL (I'm laughing because my first C-2100 came from a guy who shot racetracks)

His photos were great....

As for a flash, I use a Vivitar 285HV and a Stroboframe bracket and it works great...everything cost me about 170$ (minus the camera)

wirphotos said:

You guys are correct I stated the hot shoe, but I meant that you
could hook up an external flash if you wanted to. Do any of these
digital cameras with the pop up flash take any decent night shots?
The general purpose of the camera will be taking pictures at a
racetrack. Rarely will I be taking pictures at night, but
sometimes I might be if the other photographer can't make it.

Thanks for the info, anymore input would be helpful thanks!

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/psychephylax

Proud owner: Oly 2040Z, 2100UZ, B-300, WCON-08, OM-4, Tokina 35-105mm/3.5-4.5, Tokina 28-200mm/3.5-5.8, Vivitar 285HV

Talking cars or horses? How well lit is the track?

I tried some shots at a harness (horse) track this past summer with my E-100. Had to go with ISO 400 and even then shutter speeds weren't fast enough to really stop the action. All needed a fair bit of cleanup in post-processing. This was one of the better ones of the night.... trotting by during warmup laps:

http://www.pbase.com/image/6998278



More here:

http://www.pbase.com/inigmntoya/night_races

wirphotos said:

You guys are correct I stated the hot shoe, but I meant that you
could hook up an external flash if you wanted to. Do any of these
digital cameras with the pop up flash take any decent night shots?
The general purpose of the camera will be taking pictures at a
racetrack. Rarely will I be taking pictures at night, but
sometimes I might be if the other photographer can't make it.

Thanks for the info, anymore input would be helpful thanks!

Click to expand...

This will be at a racetrack that is for stock car racing. The track is lit fairly well, although not as bright as it should be. I know it is hard to get digital cameras to take pictures well at night. One of the other photographers has a Minolta Di Image 7 and his pictures are great. He told me he would never buy a digital camera and sure enough he went and bought 2 of the same ones.

To the person who stated they bought there camera from a person who took pictures at a race track... Do you happen to have any of his pictures that I could look at?

Otherwise is there any other camera you would recommend. I am using a Olympus D-460 right now. It is time for a new camera, it's going to be a christmas gift. If I get this camera I am going to be putting some of my own money toward it. Might have to wait on the flash until May when racing starts..

Thanks for all the help guys!

There's a new flash in the market now and I just bought one; its from Promaster and it is a TTL flash (works with the camera's metering) and I'm really happy with it..

There are non-TTL flashes available such as the Vivitars and Sunpaks. These will certainly do the job, but require a little more input from you , such as shooting in one of the manual modes, and making adjustments for exposure manually; whereas a TTL flash will operate in any mode, including "P" and vary intensity more automatically.
If you want a TTL unit, then there are only three options:

Oly FL-40+Oly bracket +Oly cable; $290+$57+$39 = $386

Metz, (various flash heads, plus the SCA3202 module + the Oly bracket + Oly cable) $150 approx+ $50 approx+ $57 + $39 = $296

Promaster: 5750DX + 9901 module (includes cable) + any bracket.
$100 + $50 + $11 = $166 (in my case)

NOTE: with this set-up any bracket can be used.

With the Oly OR the Metz , you have no choice but to use the Oly bracket and the Oly cable.

There is a long and informative thread anout these here:
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1008&message=3531271

There's a pic of mine here:
http://www.pbase.com/image/6603251
along with my "home-made" bracket ($11)

Some info on the Metz TTL module here:
http://www.belgiumdigital.be/Tips_&_Tricks/T&T_articles/sca3202/sca3202_main.htm

You'll find that the C2100 is a helluva camera, but you'll also discover it getting hard to find....don't give up, there're out there, but get one as soon as you can!

Ricky

wirphotos said:

I am looking for a new digital camera, what I am looking for is a
camera that has at least a 5X optical zoom and a hot shoe for
external flash. I came upon the Olympus 2100. Noticed it has a
10X and a hot shoe. It stated the flash to use. When I noticed
the flash was 500 bucks, the bracket was 80 and the cable was 50
bucks...WOW give me a break. Is this the only flash you can use
with this camera???? You can't use any of these 40-80 dollar
flashes?

Click to expand...

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/galleries

Breezy wrote; Thanks for the info belowon the promaster, where did you get yours?

R. Slaughter said:

There's a new flash in the market now and I just bought one; its
from Promaster and it is a TTL flash (works with the camera's
metering) and I'm really happy with it..
There are non-TTL flashes available such as the Vivitars and
Sunpaks. These will certainly do the job, but require a little more
input from you , such as shooting in one of the manual modes, and
making adjustments for exposure manually; whereas a TTL flash will
operate in any mode, including "P" and vary intensity more
automatically.
If you want a TTL unit, then there are only three options:

Oly FL-40+Oly bracket +Oly cable; $290+$57+$39 = $386

Metz, (various flash heads, plus the SCA3202 module + the Oly
bracket + Oly cable) $150 approx+ $50 approx+ $57 + $39 = $296

Promaster: 5750DX + 9901 module (includes cable) + any bracket.
$100 + $50 + $11 = $166 (in my case)

NOTE: with this set-up any bracket can be used.
With the Oly OR the Metz , you have no choice but to use the Oly
bracket and the Oly cable.

There's a pic of mine here:
http://www.pbase.com/image/6603251
along with my "home-made" bracket ($11)

Some info on the Metz TTL module here:
http://www.belgiumdigital.be/Tips_&_Tricks/T&T_articles/sca3202/sca3202_main.htm

Click to expand...

R. Slaughter said:

There's a new flash in the market now and I just bought one; its
from Promaster and it is a TTL flash (works with the camera's
metering) and I'm really happy with it..
There are non-TTL flashes available such as the Vivitars and
Sunpaks. These will certainly do the job, but require a little more
input from you , such as shooting in one of the manual modes, and
making adjustments for exposure manually; whereas a TTL flash will
operate in any mode, including "P" and vary intensity more
automatically.

Click to expand...

Yep, though when you get to the realm of multiple flashes, and studio settings, you are likely to be back in the realm of manual flash settings.

R. Slaughter said:

If you want a TTL unit, then there are only three options:

Oly FL-40+Oly bracket +Oly cable; $290+$57+$39 = $386

Metz, (various flash heads, plus the SCA3202 module + the Oly
bracket + Oly cable) $150 approx+ $50 approx+ $57 + $39 = $296

Click to expand...

This is for one of the Metz 32 flashes (Metz 32Z-2 and Metz 32MZ-3). The Metz 54 flash is more expensive than the FL-40, though it has one or two other features. I believe the Metz flashes that have a handle (Metz 60, Metz 70) would not work with the 2100 without kludges, since you have to have two brackets.

R. Slaughter said:

Promaster: 5750DX + 9901 module (includes cable) + any bracket.
$100 + $50 + $11 = $166 (in my case)

Click to expand...

There is a cheaper Promaster 5550DX that has less range, no zoom head, and no secondary flash fill light. I must say, he found a better deal on the flash than I did (I paid $209 for the flash and adapter, and I had already had a bracket).

For reference, my FAQ for the flashes is:

http://www.the-meissners.org/olympus-flash.html

wirphotos said:

This will be at a racetrack that is for stock car racing. The
track is lit fairly well, although not as bright as it should be.
I know it is hard to get digital cameras to take pictures well at
night. One of the other photographers has a Minolta Di Image 7 and
his pictures are great. He told me he would never buy a digital
camera and sure enough he went and bought 2 of the same ones.

To the person who stated they bought there camera from a person who
took pictures at a race track... Do you happen to have any of his
pictures that I could look at?

Otherwise is there any other camera you would recommend. I am
using a Olympus D-460 right now. It is time for a new camera, it's
going to be a christmas gift. If I get this camera I am going to
be putting some of my own money toward it. Might have to wait on
the flash until May when racing starts..

Click to expand...

Unless you are on the track itself, I suspect you will either need one of the high priced DSLRs that can handle high ISO speeds and/or a camera that you can attach a powerful external flash too (assuming you are allowed to take flash pictures). While TTL flashes in general give you good results, I suspect with a race scene, particularly if you are in the stands, you might need to use the flash in manual mode. This is because automatic flashes rely on the light being bounced back to gauge the strength, which cuts down on the range, and you may be pushing the range. Also, TTL flashes work best when the subject is either large or there is a wall behind the subject to bounce the light back, and the car/horse may not occupy the frame enough.

For your shooting, I would suggest you look into the Minolta 7/7i/7hi cameras, the Fujifilm S602, the Olympus 730 (or C2100UZ/E100RS if you can find one). The Sony 707/717 would be good if you needed only 5x zoom. Given the usual rap against the Nikon 5700 is low light focusing, I suspect you may want to skip that. The Minoltas offer 8x zoom, wide angle shooting, a true focusing ring and ISO 800, and good low light focusing. I recall that until you get to the new 7hi, you have to use the Minolta flashes however. I believe the S602 offers the ability to boost the ISO if you reduce the picture size, but the only external flash is non-TTL. The C2100UZ and E100RS offer 10x zoom and the Image Stabalazation which migigates against camera shake. The C730 offers 10x zoom.

Call Olympus and nag at their face , if it works , they will start thinking for one alternative solution .

wirphotos said:

I am looking for a new digital camera, what I am looking for is a
camera that has at least a 5X optical zoom and a hot shoe for
external flash. I came upon the Olympus 2100. Noticed it has a
10X and a hot shoe. It stated the flash to use. When I noticed
the flash was 500 bucks, the bracket was 80 and the cable was 50
bucks...WOW give me a break. Is this the only flash you can use
with this camera???? You can't use any of these 40-80 dollar
flashes?

Click to expand...

--



Olympus..C2100UZI+A200.1.5X_P-400..HP970Cxi=ZIO_USB..Sanyo1600 NiMh=Manfrotto 190DB+141RC
My mini gallery http://www.sigma-sa.com/kt/pelion/index.htm

I take pictures from the stands at times, but most pictures are taken from the infield during the day. I just want the ability to take pictures at night if I want to. I have been looking for cameras, I can find the C-2100 online, cheapest I have found is 550 for it. I have seen it as low as 300 bucks, but that is refurbished. I don't know if I would want to be a refurbished camera.

That bracket that the one gentleman had, did you make that yourself? That bracket doesn't look that hard to make at all. So you basically have to find a flash that has that pin kind of connection on the one end.

This post made me start thinking about the holiday season, indoor flash season, and how much I need an external flash for my 2100. So, the research began. My first step was to look up links for trigger voltages that the 2100 could handle for various flashes. This site was helpful:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

I searched ebay for all flashes with the low trigger voltages and narrowed down my decisions. I didn't want to spend too much on all of this. I ended up finding a Kalimar 175A that hadn't been bid during all of the days it was posted, with a starting bid of $5! It was new, but the guy was selling it because he had bought it for a vacation, forgot to bring it, and the camera was destroyed while on vacation. With 6 hours left, my bid held until the hour before close, but I ended up picking it up for $8.50+$5.00 shipping.

Studying Michael Meissner's site and pictures helped me decide this would would be a good option for me until I wanted to invest $$$ in a really nice flash:

http://www.the-meissners.org/albums/camera-hacks

Next, I went to search for a lower cost option to the Oly cable. The net was fruitless, although there was a custom cable manufacturer that made the cable as well as an isolator circuit so the 2100 could be used with even a high trigger voltage flash safefly...but for a cost:

http://www.paramountcords.com/digital.htm

Since I was looking for a low trigger voltage flash anyway, I didn't need the circuitry, so I went on to search ebay. It took a while, since just searching on Olympus PC Sync Cord only brought up the standard Oly cords, at not much of a savings from the $40 or so plus shipping most places charge.

I ended up finding a custom cable, with the 5 pin Olympus plug, and PC cord connection that most flashes use (mini/micro plug) on the other end. It was listed for use with an Olympus digital camera and Sunpak flash. I liked it because it wasn't a two piece cable. Again the pictures on Michael's site helped me decide that this cable would work. I picked it up for $25 including shipping.

My next stop is FRYs for a cheap $8 flash bracket that I saw a few weeks ago. So, for less than $50, I think I'll be set for this holiday season.

wirphotos said:

I am looking for a new digital camera, what I am looking for is a
camera that has at least a 5X optical zoom and a hot shoe for
external flash. I came upon the Olympus 2100. Noticed it has a
10X and a hot shoe. It stated the flash to use. When I noticed
the flash was 500 bucks, the bracket was 80 and the cable was 50
bucks...WOW give me a break. Is this the only flash you can use
with this camera???? You can't use any of these 40-80 dollar
flashes?

Click to expand...

I am not a negative person , but i will have to react, by a bit negative way .

The cooking about alternative solutions does not really help , the pictures will not be any good ,as the balance between the camera and the flash light is missing .

Above everything is the good results ,and with the C 2100, that it is a very accurate camera in the auto focus and auto lighting adjustments ,my guess is that you will not see any joy .

Every time that i tried to not follow the settings that the camera was suggesting to me , the pictures come up terrible .

So start up to studying the manual settings that will possible work , because with this setup, you have loose the Point & shoot prospective .

Ted said:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

I searched Eba for all flashes with the low trigger voltages and
narrowed down my decisions. I didn't want to spend too much on all
of this. I ended up finding a Kalimar 175A that hadn't been bid
during all of the days it was posted, with a starting bid of $5! It
was new, but the guy was selling it because he had bought it for a
vacation, forgot to bring it, and the camera was destroyed while on
vacation. With 6 hours left, my bid held until the hour before
close, but I ended up picking it up for $8.50+$5.00 shipping.

Studying Michael Meissner's site and pictures helped me decide this
would would be a good option for me until I wanted to invest $$$ in
a really nice flash:

http://www.the-meissners.org/albums/camera-hacks

Next, I went to search for a lower cost option to the Oly cable.
The net was fruitless, although there was a custom cable
manufacturer that made the cable as well as an isolator circuit so
the 2100 could be used with even a high trigger voltage flash
safefly...but for a cost:

http://www.paramountcords.com/digital.htm

Since I was looking for a low trigger voltage flash anyway, I
didn't need the circuitry, so I went on to search ebay. It took a
while, since just searching on Olympus PC Sync Cord only brought up
the standard Oly cords, at not much of a savings from the $40 or so
plus shipping most places charge.

I ended up finding a custom cable, with the 5 pin Olympus plug, and
PC cord connection that most flashes use (mini/micro plug) on the
other end. It was listed for use with an Olympus digital camera and
Sunpak flash. I liked it because it wasn't a two piece cable. Again
the pictures on Michael's site helped me decide that this cable
would work. I picked it up for $25 including shipping.

My next stop is FRYs for a cheap $8 flash bracket that I saw a few
weeks ago. So, for less than $50, I think I'll be set for this
holiday season.

wirphotos said:

I am looking for a new digital camera, what I am looking for is a
camera that has at least a 5X optical zoom and a hot shoe for
external flash. I came upon the Olympus 2100. Noticed it has a
10X and a hot shoe. It stated the flash to use. When I noticed
the flash was 500 bucks, the bracket was 80 and the cable was 50
bucks...WOW give me a break. Is this the only flash you can use
with this camera???? You can't use any of these 40-80 dollar
flashes?

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--



Olympus..C2100UZI+A200.1.5X_P-400..HP970Cxi=ZIO_USB..Sanyo1600 NiMh=Manfrotto 190DB+141RC
My mini gallery http://www.sigma-sa.com/kt/pelion/index.htm

Has anyone tried the Sunpak Digi Slave Flash that comes with a bracket that can mount on any digital camera, it claims to boost the flash output to 150%. The unit lists for about $40USD in Hong Kong and probably a good handy compliment to the weak interal flash of any typical digital camera.

Ed

Ted said:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

I searched ebay for all flashes with the low trigger voltages and
narrowed down my decisions. I didn't want to spend too much on all
of this. I ended up finding a Kalimar 175A that hadn't been bid
during all of the days it was posted, with a starting bid of $5! It
was new, but the guy was selling it because he had bought it for a
vacation, forgot to bring it, and the camera was destroyed while on
vacation. With 6 hours left, my bid held until the hour before
close, but I ended up picking it up for $8.50+$5.00 shipping.

Studying Michael Meissner's site and pictures helped me decide this
would would be a good option for me until I wanted to invest $$$ in
a really nice flash:

http://www.the-meissners.org/albums/camera-hacks

Next, I went to search for a lower cost option to the Oly cable.
The net was fruitless, although there was a custom cable
manufacturer that made the cable as well as an isolator circuit so
the 2100 could be used with even a high trigger voltage flash
safefly...but for a cost:

http://www.paramountcords.com/digital.htm

Since I was looking for a low trigger voltage flash anyway, I
didn't need the circuitry, so I went on to search ebay. It took a
while, since just searching on Olympus PC Sync Cord only brought up
the standard Oly cords, at not much of a savings from the $40 or so
plus shipping most places charge.

I ended up finding a custom cable, with the 5 pin Olympus plug, and
PC cord connection that most flashes use (mini/micro plug) on the
other end. It was listed for use with an Olympus digital camera and
Sunpak flash. I liked it because it wasn't a two piece cable. Again
the pictures on Michael's site helped me decide that this cable
would work. I picked it up for $25 including shipping.

My next stop is FRYs for a cheap $8 flash bracket that I saw a few
weeks ago. So, for less than $50, I think I'll be set for this
holiday season.

wirphotos said:

I am looking for a new digital camera, what I am looking for is a
camera that has at least a 5X optical zoom and a hot shoe for
external flash. I came upon the Olympus 2100. Noticed it has a
10X and a hot shoe. It stated the flash to use. When I noticed
the flash was 500 bucks, the bracket was 80 and the cable was 50
bucks...WOW give me a break. Is this the only flash you can use
with this camera???? You can't use any of these 40-80 dollar
flashes?

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I figure I don't have a lot to lose if the shots are ones that the internal flash can't handle anyway. It looked like the flash has been used with success by others so I don't mind tinkering with the settings to get things right. Digital is really nice for trial and error learning.

olyboy said:

The cooking about alternative solutions does not really help , the
pictures will not be any good ,as the balance between the camera
and the flash light is missing .
Above everything is the good results ,and with the C 2100, that it
is a very accurate camera in the auto focus and auto lighting
adjustments ,my guess is that you will not see any joy .
Every time that i tried to not follow the settings that the camera
was suggesting to me , the pictures come up terrible .
So start up to studying the manual settings that will possible work
, because with this setup, you have loose the Point & shoot
prospective .

Ted said:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

I searched Eba for all flashes with the low trigger voltages and
narrowed down my decisions. I didn't want to spend too much on all
of this. I ended up finding a Kalimar 175A that hadn't been bid
during all of the days it was posted, with a starting bid of $5! It
was new, but the guy was selling it because he had bought it for a
vacation, forgot to bring it, and the camera was destroyed while on
vacation. With 6 hours left, my bid held until the hour before
close, but I ended up picking it up for $8.50+$5.00 shipping.

Studying Michael Meissner's site and pictures helped me decide this
would would be a good option for me until I wanted to invest $$$ in
a really nice flash:

http://www.the-meissners.org/albums/camera-hacks

Next, I went to search for a lower cost option to the Oly cable.
The net was fruitless, although there was a custom cable
manufacturer that made the cable as well as an isolator circuit so
the 2100 could be used with even a high trigger voltage flash
safefly...but for a cost:

http://www.paramountcords.com/digital.htm

Since I was looking for a low trigger voltage flash anyway, I
didn't need the circuitry, so I went on to search ebay. It took a
while, since just searching on Olympus PC Sync Cord only brought up
the standard Oly cords, at not much of a savings from the $40 or so
plus shipping most places charge.

I ended up finding a custom cable, with the 5 pin Olympus plug, and
PC cord connection that most flashes use (mini/micro plug) on the
other end. It was listed for use with an Olympus digital camera and
Sunpak flash. I liked it because it wasn't a two piece cable. Again
the pictures on Michael's site helped me decide that this cable
would work. I picked it up for $25 including shipping.

My next stop is FRYs for a cheap $8 flash bracket that I saw a few
weeks ago. So, for less than $50, I think I'll be set for this
holiday season.

wirphotos said:

I am looking for a new digital camera, what I am looking for is a
camera that has at least a 5X optical zoom and a hot shoe for
external flash. I came upon the Olympus 2100. Noticed it has a
10X and a hot shoe. It stated the flash to use. When I noticed
the flash was 500 bucks, the bracket was 80 and the cable was 50
bucks...WOW give me a break. Is this the only flash you can use
with this camera???? You can't use any of these 40-80 dollar
flashes?

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--



Olympus..C2100UZI+A200.1.5X_P-400..HP970Cxi=ZIO_USB..Sanyo1600
NiMh=Manfrotto 190DB+141RC
My mini gallery http://www.sigma-sa.com/kt/pelion/index.htm

Click to expand...

The key to success is going to be the distance to the subject and the amount of light available, in addition to that provided by the flash.
You'll just have to try some variations, to see what works best.

If you're 150' away, then there's not much you can do that will work. If you're less than 80', there's hope.

The bracket can be seen here:
http://www.pbase.com/image/6620457

sitting beside an identical unaltered one. Note that the screw and the rubber pad are moved to the opposite side of the bracket. The bracket is 8" long.

There have been numerous reports here in favor of refurb cameras...often they are perfect, right out of the box.; if not, send it to Oly within 90 days and they'll fix it right up.

Flash connections: depending on the flash unit selected, the "connection" to make the flash fire can be one of three basic designs:
1. Powered Hotshoe (FL-40 and many others)

2. External cable connected to the flash body, not thru the shoe. (promaster 9901 module and Metz module)

3.Slave flashes, which get their "trigger" by sensing the light of another flash firing Usually the built-in flash is used to trigger the slave.

There are also "PC cable" flash units which usually fall into the second group.

The bracket that I used does not have any electrical connection to the shoe.

The Promaster unit that I used is in the second group in that it has a cable which is connected to the body of the module, and the shoe is only for mounting the flash mechanically. I have even used it w/o the bracket (handheld) several times.

There is a different module that can be used on the PM flash for use on an E10,etc.

The FL-40 requires a "powered" hotshoe with several contacts in it in order for the TTL operation to work.and thats why you're stuck with using their bracket (which provides the proper shoe) and you have to use their cable to connect the camera to the bracket. If you had an Oly with the onboard hotshoe (E10, E20, C2500L) then the bracket and cable would not be needed.

wirphotos said:

I take pictures from the stands at times, but most pictures are
taken from the infield during the day. I just want the ability to
take pictures at night if I want to. I have been looking for
cameras, I can find the C-2100 online, cheapest I have found is 550
for it. I have seen it as low as 300 bucks, but that is
refurbished. I don't know if I would want to be a refurbished
camera.

That bracket that the one gentleman had, did you make that
yourself? That bracket doesn't look that hard to make at all. So
you basically have to find a flash that has that pin kind of
connection on the one end.

Click to expand...

--
R. Slaughter
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for 'Bad Hunter'
C+54.772256^2Z

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