John Glover
Veteran Member
Ian is correct in his assessment, at least as far as my 6900 is concerned. There was a lot of griping and complaining about the poor low light performance, and to soem degree it was true. But in my experiences, it has not been a serious issue, no more so than with my 35mm gear. My 6900 autofocuses at a 3 sec, f/2.8, ISO100 exposure fairly consistently, provided I follow the guidance that Ian has spelled out below.
Another key point to try, is to make sure you get the AF target centered on the contrasting edge you are trying to lock on to. The 6900 only has a simpler center AF point, but I believe the 602 has a wide area setting? For a low light shot, I'd switch this off and activate only the central sensor. This will reduce the area in which the AF system has to deal with and should improve your chances of getting a good lock. Once a good AF is achieved, then lock it in, either with a hlf press of the shutter or shut off the AF, then recompose and shoot. Maybe this will help.
Also, I agree with Ian that a change in the ISO should not affect the AF. All the increase in ISO do is to effectively increase the gain across the CCD. The AF system is looking for contrast and phase detection. A change in the ISO should not change this, as the AF is surveying the ambient scene's contrast, while the ISO bump up only affects the metering system.
And, in any event, this has become a very interesting thread, and has stayed quite civil too! Kudos to all who have particpated so far!!
John
Fuji 6900Z, Fuji2600Z,
Pentax PZ-1p, Pentax ZX-M, Pentax MX, Oly Stylus
http://www.pbase.com/jglover
Another key point to try, is to make sure you get the AF target centered on the contrasting edge you are trying to lock on to. The 6900 only has a simpler center AF point, but I believe the 602 has a wide area setting? For a low light shot, I'd switch this off and activate only the central sensor. This will reduce the area in which the AF system has to deal with and should improve your chances of getting a good lock. Once a good AF is achieved, then lock it in, either with a hlf press of the shutter or shut off the AF, then recompose and shoot. Maybe this will help.
Also, I agree with Ian that a change in the ISO should not affect the AF. All the increase in ISO do is to effectively increase the gain across the CCD. The AF system is looking for contrast and phase detection. A change in the ISO should not change this, as the AF is surveying the ambient scene's contrast, while the ISO bump up only affects the metering system.
And, in any event, this has become a very interesting thread, and has stayed quite civil too! Kudos to all who have particpated so far!!
--Hi sg
Can you give specifics. At what kind if shutter speed/ F stop are
you having AF problems??? What is good light?
I'm with John on this because I've heard a lot of tales about
problems with the 6900 and never had any. Secifically, it'll AF at
about 2.5 secs F2.8 without any trouble as long as I use good
technique, and I can regularly get it to AF lower than that. Below
3 secs where the EVF is completely black.
ISO rating doesn't make any difference to AF, so using a higher ISO
shouldn't make any difference.
I've said it before but here are the simple rules to achieve AF in
low light.
1. Focus on lines. Preferably vertical lines. Find a door frame,
focus on a collar, spectacle frames, eyebrow, the edge of a
picture. Don't focus on a a cheek, a plain wall etc. The DOF is
huge even at F2.8 and if it's in focus 1ft behind a person, it'll
be sharp. (It's usually people we shoot in low light isn't it? )
2. Hold the camera really still whilst focusing, just like taking a
shot. If you move it, it can't lock on.
3. Go out to wide angle and it'll lock on in much lower light. AT
35mm it'll lock on at a much lower shutter speed than at 210mm so
go out to 35mm, lock on, switch to MF, zoom in without distrubing
focus and take your shot. With practice this'll be one quick,
fluid movement. This may vary from camera to camera but with my
6900, once the focus is in, I can zoom around quite a lot and it'll
still stay in focus.
Unless there's something wrong with the camera, I beleive if you
can see it in the EVF, you should be able to lock on. A 3 second
exposure without a tripod will still be awful though.
If you're get inconsistent results, it's because your'e probably
not focusing on a line consistently, or not holding the camera
still enough till it locks on.
John
Fuji 6900Z, Fuji2600Z,
Pentax PZ-1p, Pentax ZX-M, Pentax MX, Oly Stylus
http://www.pbase.com/jglover