More S602 blown night shots

Ian is correct in his assessment, at least as far as my 6900 is concerned. There was a lot of griping and complaining about the poor low light performance, and to soem degree it was true. But in my experiences, it has not been a serious issue, no more so than with my 35mm gear. My 6900 autofocuses at a 3 sec, f/2.8, ISO100 exposure fairly consistently, provided I follow the guidance that Ian has spelled out below.

Another key point to try, is to make sure you get the AF target centered on the contrasting edge you are trying to lock on to. The 6900 only has a simpler center AF point, but I believe the 602 has a wide area setting? For a low light shot, I'd switch this off and activate only the central sensor. This will reduce the area in which the AF system has to deal with and should improve your chances of getting a good lock. Once a good AF is achieved, then lock it in, either with a hlf press of the shutter or shut off the AF, then recompose and shoot. Maybe this will help.

Also, I agree with Ian that a change in the ISO should not affect the AF. All the increase in ISO do is to effectively increase the gain across the CCD. The AF system is looking for contrast and phase detection. A change in the ISO should not change this, as the AF is surveying the ambient scene's contrast, while the ISO bump up only affects the metering system.

And, in any event, this has become a very interesting thread, and has stayed quite civil too! Kudos to all who have particpated so far!!
Hi sg
Can you give specifics. At what kind if shutter speed/ F stop are
you having AF problems??? What is good light?
I'm with John on this because I've heard a lot of tales about
problems with the 6900 and never had any. Secifically, it'll AF at
about 2.5 secs F2.8 without any trouble as long as I use good
technique, and I can regularly get it to AF lower than that. Below
3 secs where the EVF is completely black.
ISO rating doesn't make any difference to AF, so using a higher ISO
shouldn't make any difference.

I've said it before but here are the simple rules to achieve AF in
low light.
1. Focus on lines. Preferably vertical lines. Find a door frame,
focus on a collar, spectacle frames, eyebrow, the edge of a
picture. Don't focus on a a cheek, a plain wall etc. The DOF is
huge even at F2.8 and if it's in focus 1ft behind a person, it'll
be sharp. (It's usually people we shoot in low light isn't it? )
2. Hold the camera really still whilst focusing, just like taking a
shot. If you move it, it can't lock on.
3. Go out to wide angle and it'll lock on in much lower light. AT
35mm it'll lock on at a much lower shutter speed than at 210mm so
go out to 35mm, lock on, switch to MF, zoom in without distrubing
focus and take your shot. With practice this'll be one quick,
fluid movement. This may vary from camera to camera but with my
6900, once the focus is in, I can zoom around quite a lot and it'll
still stay in focus.
Unless there's something wrong with the camera, I beleive if you
can see it in the EVF, you should be able to lock on. A 3 second
exposure without a tripod will still be awful though.
If you're get inconsistent results, it's because your'e probably
not focusing on a line consistently, or not holding the camera
still enough till it locks on.
--
John

Fuji 6900Z, Fuji2600Z,
Pentax PZ-1p, Pentax ZX-M, Pentax MX, Oly Stylus
http://www.pbase.com/jglover
 
I suggest you use an electric torch for that, an electric torch
could be no more than $10, and it acts just like AF assistant lamp.

You seem not to be a beginner in photography, so I assume you know
manual focus at least. Conventional SLR photographers mastered
manual focus fairly well. Why not try manual focus? It's very
powerfull when shooting moving objects and dark scene.
Italian people agree with Shizhu Pan !!! the problem is not in the Camera, is in the man!! even if for 900 € the technology should help the man (and Sony do it !!).

Leonardo
 
I love the S602 in bright light, but I really need a
camera that can function in less than perfect lighting, at least
when using the flash. Strongly considering a 707 or 717 at this
point.
Dear sg,

a few days ago I asked to this forum for the IR night shots with S602.
Someone replied me, and told me to buy filters...etc.
But I did'nt search for wonderful colours in my shots...

I want to do something similar to sony night shot, IN ORDER TO AUTOFOCUS IN LOW LIGHT CONDITION !!! THE SAME PROBLEM THAT YOU HAVE !!!

manual focus is the best solution for me, but in almost every case our wisches is to shot faster to catch the instant!!

so, nobody was able to help me in order to found an IR illuminator, if is possible to put in the hot shoe, when we set our external flashes.

I went in the sony forum, and they gave me a lot of links, for buying cheap IR illuminators...do a fast search and have too.

I think that if (in the dark too) I can lit my scene with infrared, then I can focusing. next, I open my flash, I stop IR light, and I shot.

Why infrared and not natural light? bof...I'm only searching...and in particular this tech is named NIGHT FRAMING...and if the shene is dark, why trouble her by introducing lights?

I'm still search in Italy for this (instead in the USA you have a lot of resellers), and before to buy one I plan to test-it, because nobody is sure regarding IR true capability of our camera, we don't know wich kind of hotmirror fuji put, and so...

this is my solution, but I hope that fuji too want to help us by telling some solution for our common problem (auto focus in low light).
unfortunately, they don't reply to my e-mail!!

hope helpful.
bye.

Leonardo
 
Civil-Smivell...!!
.......humbug.......!!
good reply Ian and good support John.....!!
you guys I think have the 6900 and the 602 might be a little different -
but I don't have much concern on this front - its a load of drivell......
I echo Ians technique tips..... good stuff and a good level head......!!
I have a few extra thoughts......
quoting from the FM....
Specifications
"Focus: Passive-type external AF sensor + CCD-AF sensor"
the 602 has two methods of AF
1 the external sensor and
2 CCD contrast......

I believe 2 is more efficient if the ISO level is higher - but I am not too sure of that - what I am sure of is that the EVF becomes significantly brighter if 800 or 1600 ISO is selected - and this definitely aids LL focussing......

if using manual focusing an APPROXIMATE focus from the viewfinder visually is all that is needed because of the large DOF.

I think that it is likely in LL conditions that the CCD AF will be the only one to work......??

another thought is be careful not to obscure the external AF sensor which is in the front of the flash housing just behind the focusing ring and easy to obscure with fingers....
I have heard it said that the AF is more sensitive if called from QF in MF.....

I doubt this but Ian is right that any motion at the time of sensing will interfere with locking....It may be that users taking the trouble to MF are being more careful and get better focus because of the extra care......
so ...... what does the 602 have for LL photography......

800 & 1600 ISO......
external & CCD AF
manual focus
Manual focus lock & direction indicators.....
Manual focus magnification area for visual focus.
very good low noise levels..
(and he wants to trade it in for a $3 disposable - I'll do that trade..!!)

......... and if all that fails..........
there's a 2 METER trick.........
that the camera defaults to 2 METERS if the AF cannot lock..

2 METERS is the optimum distance for flash portraits.... and will give a wide DOF.....
so don't forget if all else fails use the 2 METER trick.........
............ NOT 2 feet..........!!!

regards ga-ga
Another key point to try, is to make sure you get the AF target
centered on the contrasting edge you are trying to lock on to. The
6900 only has a simpler center AF point, but I believe the 602 has
a wide area setting? For a low light shot, I'd switch this off and
activate only the central sensor. This will reduce the area in
which the AF system has to deal with and should improve your
chances of getting a good lock. Once a good AF is achieved, then
lock it in, either with a hlf press of the shutter or shut off the
AF, then recompose and shoot. Maybe this will help.

Also, I agree with Ian that a change in the ISO should not affect
the AF. All the increase in ISO do is to effectively increase the
gain across the CCD. The AF system is looking for contrast and
phase detection. A change in the ISO should not change this, as
the AF is surveying the ambient scene's contrast, while the ISO
bump up only affects the metering system.

And, in any event, this has become a very interesting thread, and
has stayed quite civil too! Kudos to all who have particpated so
far!!
Hi sg
Can you give specifics. At what kind if shutter speed/ F stop are
you having AF problems??? What is good light?
I'm with John on this because I've heard a lot of tales about
problems with the 6900 and never had any. Secifically, it'll AF at
about 2.5 secs F2.8 without any trouble as long as I use good
technique, and I can regularly get it to AF lower than that. Below
3 secs where the EVF is completely black.
ISO rating doesn't make any difference to AF, so using a higher ISO
shouldn't make any difference.

I've said it before but here are the simple rules to achieve AF in
low light.
1. Focus on lines. Preferably vertical lines. Find a door frame,
focus on a collar, spectacle frames, eyebrow, the edge of a
picture. Don't focus on a a cheek, a plain wall etc. The DOF is
huge even at F2.8 and if it's in focus 1ft behind a person, it'll
be sharp. (It's usually people we shoot in low light isn't it? )
2. Hold the camera really still whilst focusing, just like taking a
shot. If you move it, it can't lock on.
3. Go out to wide angle and it'll lock on in much lower light. AT
35mm it'll lock on at a much lower shutter speed than at 210mm so
go out to 35mm, lock on, switch to MF, zoom in without distrubing
focus and take your shot. With practice this'll be one quick,
fluid movement. This may vary from camera to camera but with my
6900, once the focus is in, I can zoom around quite a lot and it'll
still stay in focus.
Unless there's something wrong with the camera, I beleive if you
can see it in the EVF, you should be able to lock on. A 3 second
exposure without a tripod will still be awful though.
If you're get inconsistent results, it's because your'e probably
not focusing on a line consistently, or not holding the camera
still enough till it locks on.
--
John

Fuji 6900Z, Fuji2600Z,
Pentax PZ-1p, Pentax ZX-M, Pentax MX, Oly Stylus
http://www.pbase.com/jglover
 
Helloooo!!!!!........
it's 2 METERS ............!!!!
............is there anybody in...........???
ga-ga
Realists might actually want to know, there aren't many dirt cheap
cameras that focus as poorly in low light/flash conditions.
thanks for the laugh guys -
here are some real low light pictures....
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1012&message=3686919
courtesy robbiefpi
lol
regards ga-ga
 
Nice Pics John!......
now thats what I CALL low light photography..........
...... the more I see of SG's snaps.... the more I understand.......!!
but he'll probrably say you cheated with a tripod......!!
regards ga-ga
I've posted some typical CD400 low light shots in this gallery to
demo what the Sony lasar AF system does completely routinely.

http://www.pbase.com/sg10/focus

I'm not trying to be antagonistic here, if you don't want to see
what the competition is capable of doing, please don't look. For
those equally frustrated and want to know what alternatives are
avaialble, or who may have some constructive suggestions for S602
users who want to achieve similar results, please click away.
Here are a few night shots I've made with the 6900. They are
mostly night skyline scenes, but in every case the camera was able
to easily focus and lock on......

http://www.pbase.com/jglover/night_images&page=1

I've also shot a few images of my son last evening at Halloween,
which I can post as well, a few outside in the dark, where the 6900
could focus and lock on.....still it is not a 602, so the
comparison may not be entirely a fair one here.
--
John

Fuji 6900Z, Fuji2600Z,
Pentax PZ-1p, Pentax ZX-M, Pentax MX, Oly Stylus
http://www.pbase.com/jglover
 
Thanks ga-ga and John

The EVF being brighter at higher ISO is something I hadn't thought of but it makes sense.

The 2 meter tip is very useful too, and remember, 1/8 turn of the manual ring in either direction is 1mtr + or -. On the 6900 there are some convenient little screws either side of top centre which are almost exactly 1/8 turn away in each direction.

And here's another radical idea. Don't bother to lock on, just push the button straight through and take the shot anyway. It works pretty well too.

Just because the AF hasn't locked on doesn't mean you'll get a blurry shot. Often it focuses close enough to be within DOF.
regards
Ian
Civil-Smivell...!!
.......humbug.......!!
good reply Ian and good support John.....!!
you guys I think have the 6900 and the 602 might be a little
different -
but I don't have much concern on this front - its a load of
drivell......
I echo Ians technique tips..... good stuff and a good level
head......!!
I have a few extra thoughts......
quoting from the FM....
Specifications
"Focus: Passive-type external AF sensor + CCD-AF sensor"
the 602 has two methods of AF
1 the external sensor and
2 CCD contrast......
I believe 2 is more efficient if the ISO level is higher - but I am
not too sure of that - what I am sure of is that the EVF becomes
significantly brighter if 800 or 1600 ISO is selected - and this
definitely aids LL focussing......
if using manual focusing an APPROXIMATE focus from the viewfinder
visually is all that is needed because of the large DOF.
I think that it is likely in LL conditions that the CCD AF will be
the only one to work......??
another thought is be careful not to obscure the external AF sensor
which is in the front of the flash housing just behind the focusing
ring and easy to obscure with fingers....
I have heard it said that the AF is more sensitive if called from
QF in MF.....
I doubt this but Ian is right that any motion at the time of
sensing will interfere with locking....It may be that users taking
the trouble to MF are being more careful and get better focus
because of the extra care......
so ...... what does the 602 have for LL photography......

800 & 1600 ISO......
external & CCD AF
manual focus
Manual focus lock & direction indicators.....
Manual focus magnification area for visual focus.
very good low noise levels..
(and he wants to trade it in for a $3 disposable - I'll do that
trade..!!)

......... and if all that fails..........
there's a 2 METER trick.........
that the camera defaults to 2 METERS if the AF cannot lock..
2 METERS is the optimum distance for flash portraits.... and will
give a wide DOF.....
so don't forget if all else fails use the 2 METER trick.........
............ NOT 2 feet..........!!!

regards ga-ga
 
Nice snaps SG.........
I'm begining to get the picture........!!!
thinking about it I have to agree with you!....
I can see now why you would prefer a $3 disposable......

I'll give you $10 for the 602 you can buy three disposables and I could USE another 602......
I have an UZI with an excelent AF assist light
and a Nikon F401 and a Miniolta SLR
any camera with an active AF light will do this particular trick better
not all cameara have all features...
If you really want to spend your life taking snaps in the dark -
go buy something else........!!!

regards ga-ga
I've posted some typical CD400 low light shots in this gallery to
demo what the Sony lasar AF system does completely routinely.

http://www.pbase.com/sg10/focus

I'm not trying to be antagonistic here, if you don't want to see
what the competition is capable of doing, please don't look. For
those equally frustrated and want to know what alternatives are
avaialble, or who may have some constructive suggestions for S602
users who want to achieve similar results, please click away.
 
Hi Ian,
hmmm..
where did you get the 1 meter idea?.....
it has to be less for 1 meter near infinity - than 1 meter close to...??
just look at the markings on any camera that has markings...
more like a logarithmic scale.
I've got similar screws on the 602 but they are slightly off centre....

If anyone wants to get really hyper about this - and I really don't see the need ------

It struck me that a little (illegal) penlight laser pointer that my son used to have - would have made an ideal AF assist light - it had a number of different front ends and I even think one had a pattern of parralell lines ..... it was about the size of one penlight cell and had a push button on one side - could have easily been fitted with a mount to go on the flash shoe....
........ can't find the thing when you want it.........!!!

regards ga-ga
Civil-Smivell...!!
.......humbug.......!!
good reply Ian and good support John.....!!
you guys I think have the 6900 and the 602 might be a little
different -
but I don't have much concern on this front - its a load of
drivell......
I echo Ians technique tips..... good stuff and a good level
head......!!
I have a few extra thoughts......
quoting from the FM....
Specifications
"Focus: Passive-type external AF sensor + CCD-AF sensor"
the 602 has two methods of AF
1 the external sensor and
2 CCD contrast......
I believe 2 is more efficient if the ISO level is higher - but I am
not too sure of that - what I am sure of is that the EVF becomes
significantly brighter if 800 or 1600 ISO is selected - and this
definitely aids LL focussing......
if using manual focusing an APPROXIMATE focus from the viewfinder
visually is all that is needed because of the large DOF.
I think that it is likely in LL conditions that the CCD AF will be
the only one to work......??
another thought is be careful not to obscure the external AF sensor
which is in the front of the flash housing just behind the focusing
ring and easy to obscure with fingers....
I have heard it said that the AF is more sensitive if called from
QF in MF.....
I doubt this but Ian is right that any motion at the time of
sensing will interfere with locking....It may be that users taking
the trouble to MF are being more careful and get better focus
because of the extra care......
so ...... what does the 602 have for LL photography......

800 & 1600 ISO......
external & CCD AF
manual focus
Manual focus lock & direction indicators.....
Manual focus magnification area for visual focus.
very good low noise levels..
(and he wants to trade it in for a $3 disposable - I'll do that
trade..!!)

......... and if all that fails..........
there's a 2 METER trick.........
that the camera defaults to 2 METERS if the AF cannot lock..
2 METERS is the optimum distance for flash portraits.... and will
give a wide DOF.....
so don't forget if all else fails use the 2 METER trick.........
............ NOT 2 feet..........!!!

regards ga-ga
 
Leo,

it is difficult to talk with you about such a technical matter in a different language........
I've looked at your previouse thread
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1012&message=3654727

I would suggest that you don't need the type of expensive night-vision devices that you are looking at......

using a long exposure on a camera can give the same effect but not in real-time ie you can look through these devices and see real-time when it might be near dark......
have a look at this excellent example from JohnR....
http://www.pbase.com/image/881305
and these from robbiefpi......
http://www.pbase.com/robbief/pisa

using a long exposure on the camera will amplify the available light for an instant in the same way that these expensive devices will in real-time
but they would be much more useful for video....

regards ga-ga
camera that can function in less than perfect lighting, at least
when using the flash. Strongly considering a 707 or 717 at this
point.
Dear sg,

a few days ago I asked to this forum for the IR night shots with S602.
Someone replied me, and told me to buy filters...etc.
But I did'nt search for wonderful colours in my shots...
I want to do something similar to sony night shot, IN ORDER TO
AUTOFOCUS IN LOW LIGHT CONDITION !!! THE SAME PROBLEM THAT YOU HAVE
!!!

manual focus is the best solution for me, but in almost every case
our wisches is to shot faster to catch the instant!!

so, nobody was able to help me in order to found an IR illuminator,
if is possible to put in the hot shoe, when we set our external
flashes.
I went in the sony forum, and they gave me a lot of links, for
buying cheap IR illuminators...do a fast search and have too.

I think that if (in the dark too) I can lit my scene with infrared,
then I can focusing. next, I open my flash, I stop IR light, and I
shot.
Why infrared and not natural light? bof...I'm only searching...and
in particular this tech is named NIGHT FRAMING...and if the shene
is dark, why trouble her by introducing lights?

I'm still search in Italy for this (instead in the USA you have a
lot of resellers), and before to buy one I plan to test-it, because
nobody is sure regarding IR true capability of our camera, we don't
know wich kind of hotmirror fuji put, and so...
this is my solution, but I hope that fuji too want to help us by
telling some solution for our common problem (auto focus in low
light).
unfortunately, they don't reply to my e-mail!!

hope helpful.
bye.

Leonardo
 
hey guy,
is there anybody that can help me??

My 602 don't autofocus correctly in low light condition!! do you have some experience about?

:-))))))

It's a joke!!!

in every case, interesting subject and useful discussion,
compliments to everybody the spent 2cent in this forum, and in this subject
 
Leo,
it is difficult to talk with you about such a technical matter in a
different language........
OK, MY ENGLISH IS NOT VERY GOOD!!
I've looked at your previouse thread
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1012&message=3654727
I would suggest that you don't need the type of expensive
night-vision devices that you are looking at......
using a long exposure on a camera can give the same effect but not
in real-time ie you can look through these devices and see
real-time when it might be near dark......
I KNOW, I DID WONDERFUL SHOTS WITH MY FUJI 602, NOTHING IS UPLOADED ON pbase, OK, I WILL DO,
BUT...
have a look at this excellent example from JohnR....
http://www.pbase.com/image/881305
and these from robbiefpi......
http://www.pbase.com/robbief/pisa
using a long exposure on the camera will amplify the available
light for an instant in the same way that these expensive devices
will in real-time
but they would be much more useful for video....

regards ga-ga
MAYBE YOU'RE RIGHT...for pictures is not very usefull, ok, but I love experiments!!
THIS MEANS THAT I'M TRYING,
BUT I DON'T WANT TO SELL BACK MY FUJI FOR ANOTHER CAMERA,
AND WITH THE MANUAL FOCUS EVERYTHING IS OK, EVEN IN LOW LIGHT.

BUT...

IN WICH WAY YOU KNOW THE 2 METERS TRICK: I TRYIED TO SHOT WITH THE DARK IN MY ROOM, WITH THE FLASH ON, AND THE PICTURES WAS RIGHT FOCUSED...I thinked "why??"... IT'S A FUJI FEATURE!!! WHEN IN DOUBT, SWITCH TO 2METERS FOCUS. GREAT.

ga-ga, the problem is not the language: you know photograph and cameras better then me, I am a beginner.. :-((((
 
THESE are low light shots.........
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1012&message=3688668

these are night shots......
http://www.pbase.com/robbief/pisa

these are just a joke........
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1012&message=3688668

ga-ga
hey guy,
is there anybody that can help me??
My 602 don't autofocus correctly in low light condition!! do you
have some experience about?

:-))))))

It's a joke!!!

in every case, interesting subject and useful discussion,
compliments to everybody the spent 2cent in this forum, and in this
subject
 
Hi ga-ga

Yes, but when you start up the camera it defaults to 2mtrs as you said. 1/8th turn is 1 or 3 mtrs depending on the direction. 1/4 turn will take you up to 4mtrs. Whether it works much over that is not so imoportant unless you want to take landscapes at night, in which case it's not going to help you much by starting at 2mtrs anyway.
regards
Ian
If anyone wants to get really hyper about this - and I really don't
see the need ------
It struck me that a little (illegal) penlight laser pointer that my
son used to have - would have made an ideal AF assist light - it
had a number of different front ends and I even think one had a
pattern of parralell lines ..... it was about the size of one
penlight cell and had a push button on one side - could have easily
been fitted with a mount to go on the flash shoe....
........ can't find the thing when you want it.........!!!

regards ga-ga
Civil-Smivell...!!
.......humbug.......!!
good reply Ian and good support John.....!!
you guys I think have the 6900 and the 602 might be a little
different -
but I don't have much concern on this front - its a load of
drivell......
I echo Ians technique tips..... good stuff and a good level
head......!!
I have a few extra thoughts......
quoting from the FM....
Specifications
"Focus: Passive-type external AF sensor + CCD-AF sensor"
the 602 has two methods of AF
1 the external sensor and
2 CCD contrast......
I believe 2 is more efficient if the ISO level is higher - but I am
not too sure of that - what I am sure of is that the EVF becomes
significantly brighter if 800 or 1600 ISO is selected - and this
definitely aids LL focussing......
if using manual focusing an APPROXIMATE focus from the viewfinder
visually is all that is needed because of the large DOF.
I think that it is likely in LL conditions that the CCD AF will be
the only one to work......??
another thought is be careful not to obscure the external AF sensor
which is in the front of the flash housing just behind the focusing
ring and easy to obscure with fingers....
I have heard it said that the AF is more sensitive if called from
QF in MF.....
I doubt this but Ian is right that any motion at the time of
sensing will interfere with locking....It may be that users taking
the trouble to MF are being more careful and get better focus
because of the extra care......
so ...... what does the 602 have for LL photography......

800 & 1600 ISO......
external & CCD AF
manual focus
Manual focus lock & direction indicators.....
Manual focus magnification area for visual focus.
very good low noise levels..
(and he wants to trade it in for a $3 disposable - I'll do that
trade..!!)

......... and if all that fails..........
there's a 2 METER trick.........
that the camera defaults to 2 METERS if the AF cannot lock..
2 METERS is the optimum distance for flash portraits.... and will
give a wide DOF.....
so don't forget if all else fails use the 2 METER trick.........
............ NOT 2 feet..........!!!

regards ga-ga
--
6900
 
sorry fumbled.......
I meant.....

THESE are low light shots.........
http://www.pbase.com/bighampster/canucks

these are night shots......
http://www.pbase.com/robbief/pisa

these are just a joke........
http://www.pbase.com/sg10/focus

ga-ga
hey guy,
is there anybody that can help me??
My 602 don't autofocus correctly in low light condition!! do you
have some experience about?

:-))))))

It's a joke!!!

in every case, interesting subject and useful discussion,
compliments to everybody the spent 2cent in this forum, and in this
subject
 
right.......
thats good!.......
remember, remember.....
I'll try.....
regards ga-ga
If anyone wants to get really hyper about this - and I really don't
see the need ------
It struck me that a little (illegal) penlight laser pointer that my
son used to have - would have made an ideal AF assist light - it
had a number of different front ends and I even think one had a
pattern of parralell lines ..... it was about the size of one
penlight cell and had a push button on one side - could have easily
been fitted with a mount to go on the flash shoe....
........ can't find the thing when you want it.........!!!

regards ga-ga
Civil-Smivell...!!
.......humbug.......!!
good reply Ian and good support John.....!!
you guys I think have the 6900 and the 602 might be a little
different -
but I don't have much concern on this front - its a load of
drivell......
I echo Ians technique tips..... good stuff and a good level
head......!!
I have a few extra thoughts......
quoting from the FM....
Specifications
"Focus: Passive-type external AF sensor + CCD-AF sensor"
the 602 has two methods of AF
1 the external sensor and
2 CCD contrast......
I believe 2 is more efficient if the ISO level is higher - but I am
not too sure of that - what I am sure of is that the EVF becomes
significantly brighter if 800 or 1600 ISO is selected - and this
definitely aids LL focussing......
if using manual focusing an APPROXIMATE focus from the viewfinder
visually is all that is needed because of the large DOF.
I think that it is likely in LL conditions that the CCD AF will be
the only one to work......??
another thought is be careful not to obscure the external AF sensor
which is in the front of the flash housing just behind the focusing
ring and easy to obscure with fingers....
I have heard it said that the AF is more sensitive if called from
QF in MF.....
I doubt this but Ian is right that any motion at the time of
sensing will interfere with locking....It may be that users taking
the trouble to MF are being more careful and get better focus
because of the extra care......
so ...... what does the 602 have for LL photography......

800 & 1600 ISO......
external & CCD AF
manual focus
Manual focus lock & direction indicators.....
Manual focus magnification area for visual focus.
very good low noise levels..
(and he wants to trade it in for a $3 disposable - I'll do that
trade..!!)

......... and if all that fails..........
there's a 2 METER trick.........
that the camera defaults to 2 METERS if the AF cannot lock..
2 METERS is the optimum distance for flash portraits.... and will
give a wide DOF.....
so don't forget if all else fails use the 2 METER trick.........
............ NOT 2 feet..........!!!

regards ga-ga
--
6900
 
The idea of using a small laser came up in a similar discussion re the 6900z late last year. As you say, to do so would be illegal and the potential for an accident involving the subject's sight is enormous.

I have used a Maglight Solitaire for such situations for many months now with a high success rate. It can be fiddly handling the camera, with external flash attached - due to the whole balance being thrown out - and the little torch but it works fine around 90% of the time and, with fully charged batteries, the light gives a throw of up to 4 metres.

Adjusting the beam to a fine point provides adequate contrast and illumination for the 6900z to autofocus and manual focus is easy.

PhilB
If anyone wants to get really hyper about this - and I really don't
see the need ------
It struck me that a little (illegal) penlight laser pointer that my
son used to have - would have made an ideal AF assist light - it
had a number of different front ends and I even think one had a
pattern of parralell lines ..... it was about the size of one
penlight cell and had a push button on one side - could have easily
been fitted with a mount to go on the flash shoe....
........ can't find the thing when you want it.........!!!

regards ga-ga
Civil-Smivell...!!
.......humbug.......!!
good reply Ian and good support John.....!!
you guys I think have the 6900 and the 602 might be a little
different -
but I don't have much concern on this front - its a load of
drivell......
I echo Ians technique tips..... good stuff and a good level
head......!!
I have a few extra thoughts......
quoting from the FM....
Specifications
"Focus: Passive-type external AF sensor + CCD-AF sensor"
the 602 has two methods of AF
1 the external sensor and
2 CCD contrast......
I believe 2 is more efficient if the ISO level is higher - but I am
not too sure of that - what I am sure of is that the EVF becomes
significantly brighter if 800 or 1600 ISO is selected - and this
definitely aids LL focussing......
if using manual focusing an APPROXIMATE focus from the viewfinder
visually is all that is needed because of the large DOF.
I think that it is likely in LL conditions that the CCD AF will be
the only one to work......??
another thought is be careful not to obscure the external AF sensor
which is in the front of the flash housing just behind the focusing
ring and easy to obscure with fingers....
I have heard it said that the AF is more sensitive if called from
QF in MF.....
I doubt this but Ian is right that any motion at the time of
sensing will interfere with locking....It may be that users taking
the trouble to MF are being more careful and get better focus
because of the extra care......
so ...... what does the 602 have for LL photography......

800 & 1600 ISO......
external & CCD AF
manual focus
Manual focus lock & direction indicators.....
Manual focus magnification area for visual focus.
very good low noise levels..
(and he wants to trade it in for a $3 disposable - I'll do that
trade..!!)

......... and if all that fails..........
there's a 2 METER trick.........
that the camera defaults to 2 METERS if the AF cannot lock..
2 METERS is the optimum distance for flash portraits.... and will
give a wide DOF.....
so don't forget if all else fails use the 2 METER trick.........
............ NOT 2 feet..........!!!

regards ga-ga
--
PhilB
 
It struck me that a little (illegal) penlight laser pointer that my
son used to have - would have made an ideal AF assist light - it
had a number of different front ends and I even think one had a
pattern of parralell lines ..... it was about the size of one
penlight cell and had a push button on one side - could have easily
been fitted with a mount to go on the flash shoe....
........ can't find the thing when you want it.........!!!
I thought about this too as an admittedly somewhat ridiculous crutch, but my 602 apparently like yours, contrary to what you've been posting, also needs help. Unfortunately, I did find my lasar pointer and its got warnings all over it for not being eye safe.

I think its important warn anyone reading this NOT to try your idea, the Sony lasar illuinators work in a completely eye safe spectrum, pen lasars can cause instant, permenant eye damage.
 

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