Reading mode: Light Dark

Thom, RRS, and Tripods

Go to last post
Joe,

What do you use when you want to get your strobe up and off of the camera--but keep it centered over the camera? This JustRite bracket looks nice, but what about the strobe?

Thanks,
JW
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
Currently using a JustRite camera rotator. It's smaller amd lighter
than the Stroboframe bracket, and (properly blocked) it preserves
your vertical and horizontal centering when you rotate your camera.
This is very handy for macro and stitched panorama work.

http://www.justritebracket.com/JRB645-35.html

Ciao!

Joe
Click to expand...
 
Brendan,

I was of the same mindset--so I bought a (what I thought was expensive at the time--silly me!) "three-legged thing you stuck your camera on top of." It has served its purpose, and I am now saving towards the something better.

My question: What do you and the group suggest for getting the SB80DX up and OFF of the D100 when shooting on a tripod--or hand-holding it--something that is quick to change between portrait/landscape? I have been using the Stroboframe QuickFlip. I have even put a QR on the bottom of it to put it on my "cheap" three legged thing. But I can definitely feel that it isn't steady like I would like it to be. What's the solution?
Group Idiot said:
Talk about a change in thinking. I always viewed tripods as just a
three-legged thing you stuck your camera on top of--nothing more.
Well, it's amazing what an education can do for you, so I thought
I'd share a snippet of my "journey" to [a little] tripod
understanding in hopes that the majority of those out there who are
just like me can avoid many of the mistakes.

If you're a new D100 owner, just as putting junk glass in front of
your new $2,000 camera will compromise your images, so will
slapping it on top of a cheap $200 tripod. And YES, I said $200 and
CHEAP in the same sentence!
Click to expand...
Group Idiot said:
Brendan
--
Newbie requests inspection and critique of new photos at:
http://www.pbase.com/bgetchel/root
Click to expand...
 
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
Got one. Sent it back the next day. It can turn the most sturdy
tripod setup into a vibrating mess.

Currently using a JustRite camera rotator. It's smaller amd lighter
than the Stroboframe bracket, and (properly blocked) it preserves
your vertical and horizontal centering when you rotate your camera.
This is very handy for macro and stitched panorama work.

http://www.justritebracket.com/JRB645-35.html

Ciao!

Joe
Click to expand...
Hey, that looks good. How much is it?

--
JR
 
Hmmm. Both look kind of dodgy to me. I thought reallyrightstuff had some sort of wrap around bracket which you could release a pin, rotate the camera and plug it back into the base.
Rich
James Riley said:
Rich Gibson said:
Hey Group (or is it Idiot?)
I enjoyed your post and the thread. I never knew there was a site
for things so esoteric as mounting brackets.

Maybe I missed something so I wondered if you might have a ready
answer. I've decided on a monopod and have a manfrotto 3229 simple
head. If I understand reallyrightstuff.com an "L" bracket would
serve as a mounting plate which permits one to quickly move the
camera 90 degrees. Is this correct? If so, what one do you use
for a D-100.

Thanks, Rich
Click to expand...
Try this.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh4.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___52783___STVFPHD___REG___CatID=3582___SID=F162267AD10

I don't have one, but maybe somebody would buy one and tell us how
it is.

--
JR
Click to expand...
 
JW Legler said:
Joe,

What do you use when you want to get your strobe up and off of the
camera--but keep it centered over the camera? This JustRite
bracket looks nice, but what about the strobe?
Click to expand...
Well, for the little bit of event photography that I do, I use the JustRite rotator on an old (non flipping) stroboframe built for a Hassleblad.

Gary Just does make a rather complete bracket that combines the rotator with a flash holder, the nicest "landing legs" of any bracket you'll ever find, and parking places for a quantum battery, radio slave, cup holders, cell phone, etc. (OK, just kidding about those last two). If I did frequent event photography, I'd consider one of these.

http://www.justritebracket.com/645%202.html

Ciao!

Joe
 
RogerB said:
Until a few days ago the largest lens I had was the Nikkor
80-200mm/2.8 and had already experienced load difficulty with the
Bogen 3021 I currently use. Because of that I had already been
considering a new support system. I acquired a Nikkor 400mm/2.8
(used from Ebay) and now have no choice but to consider a more
reliable setup. Coincidentally, I had been considering the exact
system you have described. I'm sure you will enjoy your new gear
and appreciate even more your decision after a little use.
Click to expand...
I agree entirely with your personal assessments. I seriously considered the D1x myself until the D100 came out--and it suits my needs completely. I've been tracking eBay auctions for the 300-400/2.8's myself (and the 500/4 "P"), but nothing has come into my financial comfort zone. Also, I've been dropping MUCH more money MUCH more quickly into this "hobby" than I originally anticipated. Initially I thought $5,000 total would get me everything I wanted, but now I'm beginning to realize that it's DOUBLE that figure, and if I can get a nice 400/2.8 or 500/4 (MF is fine for either as long as I can meter), then we're probably looking at more like $12-13,000.

Needless to say, I'm over-budget ;-)

Brendan
--

Newbie requests inspection and critique of new photos at: http://www.pbase.com/bgetchel/root
 
Rich Gibson said:
Hey Group (or is it Idiot?)
Click to expand...
Judging from most posts, and my own inclination, I think "Idiot" gets the nod ;-)
Member said:
I enjoyed your post and the thread. I never knew there was a site
for things so esoteric as mounting brackets.
Click to expand...
Or someone so new posting about things which he has no clue! Hence, the above moniker ;-)
Member said:
Maybe I missed something so I wondered if you might have a ready
answer. I've decided on a monopod and have a manfrotto 3229 simple
head. If I understand reallyrightstuff.com an "L" bracket would
serve as a mounting plate which permits one to quickly move the
camera 90 degrees. Is this correct? If so, what one do you use
for a D-100.
Click to expand...
I haven't seen RRS' L-Bracket yet, but Kirk Photo has L's for BOTH the D100 alone and WITH the MB-D100, which I use. I haven't yet ordered it because the money flow hemorrhaging into this "hobby" is approaching truly Idiot-like proportions. The Kirk "L" for the D100/MB is $180.

Brendan
--

Newbie requests inspection and critique of new photos at: http://www.pbase.com/bgetchel/root
 
JW Legler said:
My question: What do you and the group suggest for getting the
SB80DX up and OFF of the D100 when shooting on a tripod--or
hand-holding it--something that is quick to change between
portrait/landscape? I have been using the Stroboframe QuickFlip.
I have even put a QR on the bottom of it to put it on my "cheap"
three legged thing. But I can definitely feel that it isn't steady
like I would like it to be. What's the solution?
Click to expand...
I don't know. I'm sure there's something out there, and judging from some of the Macro Flash solutions in the RRS catalog one of those might work.

I would check out their catalog suggestion(s) (in PDF on their site) and see if that Macro rig won't do the job.

Brendan
--

Newbie requests inspection and critique of new photos at: http://www.pbase.com/bgetchel/root
 
I wouldn't use the word quickly to describe changing from landscape to portrait with an L bracket.

What it does do is allow you to loosen the quick release bracket, slide the camera off the bracket, reorient the camera, slide the camera back on to the bracket and tighten the bracket.

The combination is usually accomplished in less than 10 seconds. If you consider this quick, so be it. As a comparison, a lens with a rotating collar can be reoriented in about 1 second.

It does allow you to change the orientation of the camera while leaving the lens is essentially the same position. A long lens with rotating collar is better but for the many lenses that don't have one, this is very close.

I have the Kirk L bracket for use without the MB-D100. It is very well made and still quite small. The extra weight at the bottom of the camera helps balance the camera nicely without adding much additional weight to the camera. I've been leaving it on the camera all the time. As a comparison, the Kirk and RRS plate for the D1 series adds depth to an already wide camera body making getting it into a camera bag a problem. I've gone to using the non-L Kirk bracket for the D1H since I didn't like the extra depth. The D100 version form Kirk is narrower than the camera depth and adds only about 1/2" to the width of the body.

--
Tony

http://homepage.mac.com/a5m http://www.pbase.com/a5m
Rich Gibson said:
Hey Group (or is it Idiot?)
I enjoyed your post and the thread. I never knew there was a site
for things so esoteric as mounting brackets.

Maybe I missed something so I wondered if you might have a ready
answer. I've decided on a monopod and have a manfrotto 3229 simple
head. If I understand reallyrightstuff.com an "L" bracket would
serve as a mounting plate which permits one to quickly move the
camera 90 degrees. Is this correct? If so, what one do you use
for a D-100.

Thanks, Rich
Click to expand...
 
It feels significantly heavier than the Stroboframe Press-T if you get the rotator on the legs with the flash bracket. The framing is much thinker than the Press-T which means you can put a lot of weight on the frame.

I tried to use it with my D1H setup but I found it had a problem keeping my heavy camera still. If I handed the setup to anyone, the camera would flop around. (It took getting used to it.) I haven't tried it with the D100 since I like the fact that the Press-T is lighter. It would probably work well since the D100 is smaller and lighter than the D1H and the Rotator wouldn't tend to move as much by itself with that setup.

BTW, the legs by themselves that just right sells are great for mounting all sorts of things on tables or close to the ground.

--
Tony

http://homepage.mac.com/a5m http://www.pbase.com/a5m
JW Legler said:
Thanks, Joe. It does look good. How heavy is it?
JW
Click to expand...
 
The new idiot asks, What is "RRS catalog?"
JW
Group Idiot said:
JW Legler said:
My question: What do you and the group suggest for getting the
SB80DX up and OFF of the D100 when shooting on a tripod--or
hand-holding it--something that is quick to change between
portrait/landscape? I have been using the Stroboframe QuickFlip.
I have even put a QR on the bottom of it to put it on my "cheap"
three legged thing. But I can definitely feel that it isn't steady
like I would like it to be. What's the solution?
Click to expand...
I don't know. I'm sure there's something out there, and judging
from some of the Macro Flash solutions in the RRS catalog one of
those might work.

I would check out their catalog suggestion(s) (in PDF on their
site) and see if that Macro rig won't do the job.

Brendan
--
Newbie requests inspection and critique of new photos at:
http://www.pbase.com/bgetchel/root
Click to expand...
 
Thom's article is a good read, but I would take his advice with a grain of salt. The Gitzo 1228, which he recommends, is the only Gitzo NOT recommended by John Shaw. The sharpest picture I've seen by the late Galen Rowell was shot with the camera on a pile of rocks. For a light but stable tripod, Thom's choice is a good one, but not the only one. Picking the best tripod is like picking the best lens. One often ends up buying more than one for different uses.
 
Fast lenses, uh...expensive.

BUT--Not having to carry a tripod while hiking or kayaking...priceless.

Galen Rowell had some great writings on bringing/not bringing a tripod. Some of his sharpest shots were taken without a tripod, by improvising support. I find that putting a camera on a bean bag and pushing down firmly does an incredible job of getting those precious extra stops. I honestly cannot every imagine spending so much money on a tripod unless I was a commercial photographer.
 
...in Prague this past August to take night pictures on the banks of the flooded river across the other side.

It worked great, but it was a HECK of a lot heavier than any tripod ;-)

B-
snowwrestler said:
Fast lenses, uh...expensive.

BUT--Not having to carry a tripod while hiking or
kayaking...priceless.

Galen Rowell had some great writings on bringing/not bringing a
tripod. Some of his sharpest shots were taken without a tripod, by
improvising support. I find that putting a camera on a bean bag
and pushing down firmly does an incredible job of getting those
precious extra stops. I honestly cannot every imagine spending so
much money on a tripod unless I was a commercial photographer.
Click to expand...
--

Newbie requests inspection and critique of new photos at: http://www.pbase.com/bgetchel/root
 
Philo Calhoun said:
Thom's article is a good read, but I would take his advice with a
grain of salt. The Gitzo 1228, which he recommends, is the only
Gitzo NOT recommended by John Shaw. The sharpest picture I've seen
by the late Galen Rowell was shot with the camera on a pile of
rocks. For a light but stable tripod, Thom's choice is a good one,
but not the only one. Picking the best tripod is like picking the
best lens. One often ends up buying more than one for different
uses.
Click to expand...
(earlier version of this message in http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=3599463 but no reaction

My Quest on spending on tripods (hobby use only) using both Gitzo 1228 and 1325.

I started with a 2nd hand Gitzo Tele Studex + Bogan 3-way-head + plates (Thanks for the guidance Mr John Shaw). Used them for a good 10 years. Good Combination , but ..... lots of weight.

I have been using Gitzo 1228 + Gitzo G1276-M off-center bal head for over 1 year now:
  • bought the shorter center post to get to ground level for Macro
  • changed G1276 head to Acratech ball head + Wimberley Clamp + W-plates because the Gitzo plates are a nuisance (to thick). The Gitzo off center ball head is good value for money though - but gives (a little) "creep" when fastened - not good for Macro and often a nuisance when framing..
Still not real sharp shots with D100 and 300mm F4.0 AFS combo.

Next step: I replaced Nikon 300 mm AFS tripod collar with one from Burzinsky Germany (see http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html )

Next I got myself a heavier / more stable tripod: Gitzo 1325 + additional center post (just in case - not in use yet) + leveling base 1321.

This is what I learned using Gitzo 1325 legs + Acratech head + Wimberley plates in combination with D100 / F100 and 300 mm f4.0 AFS
  • blurred images in 1/8- 60 s range are gone now (mirror lock up in D100 helps !)
  • D100 center sensor is the only of the 5 sensors really doing its job in low light conditions (F100 centre + plus left & right sensors are ok too)
  • sharpness with D100 plus 300mm still is not 100 % to my liking (when I remove the brand new B&W filter from the lens it is better though) => I consider sending the D100 camera + lens back to Nikon for combined check up (yes I have read all I could find on the web on USM ..)
  • TC-2e converter is at best a workaround for not having 600m lens. "Bite" is missing
  • macro with 70-180 mm is now pin sharp (Gitzo 1228 was already reasonably OK) but 1325 is better when working in the field on non stable ground)
  • 1325 enables me to stand upright looking through the camera view finder => correct framing, nice straight horizons (as with 1228 I had to bend over a bit or use the center post. Center post giving less stability = blur)
  • 3 legs (eg 1227 or 1325) is preferable to 4 legs (1228): way better stability
  • 4 legs is a real help when fitting tripods in suitcases (the G1227 collapses to 25", the G1228 to less than 21": see Gitzo web site).
  • 1321 leveling base is really handy in getting straight horizons and keeping them straight when panning
  • Wimberley plates with safety stops are really worth their money (these "stops" give you a cheap insurance policy) but work only with their own clamp (RRS are good too, my two Kirk plates have no safety stops on the camera plates)
  • my feeling (no science here) is same "size" tripod leg tubing: carbon fiber tripods (1325) are more stable than aluminum (studex) (Gitzo site info on max load gives the same impression)
  • mind the head-tripod weight ratio. I saw several Carbon tripods users still using their "old" -way to heavy- heads with their new tripods => resulting in unstable set-ups. (During last fototrip I witnessed 3 camera - tripod combinations hitting the ground when the weather was windy) (see RRS site on guidance on head-tripod weight ratio)
  • tighten BOTH your ball-head AND you panorama-knobs before shooting !
Conclusion:
  • 1321 is in general my preferred solution (even when hiking)
  • 1228 is the "travel by plane" tripod
Next step: saving up .... for a heavier ball head (Arca B1 I fancy) for use on 1325

deBult
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

V
Peak Design Pro Tripod Light - initial thoughts
Replies
1
Views
29K
john isaacs
J
Sam Bennett
Travel Tripod Options?
2 3
Replies
55
Views
36K
Sam Bennett
Sam Bennett
Gordon Ripley
spreader straps for Gitzo GT1545T tripod
Replies
4
Views
11K
Richard B99
R
H
New travel tripod - Heipi W28S, Ulanzi Treeroot, Gitzo Légende, or other?
Replies
6
Views
18K
Maxmolly7
Maxmolly7
S
Travel photography: tripod... Yes or no?
2 3
Replies
54
Views
33K
Blue Skies Above
B

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top