Who agrees the noise is getting less on the HS10?

Started May 25, 2010 | Discussions thread
Billx08 Forum Pro • Posts: 11,373
Re: Skimble ...

Lloydy wrote:

... Tips and tricks.

The best tip for the HS-10 - Whenever possible, shoot Raw + Jpeg.

You couldn't be more wrong. First of all, unlike many other Fuji cameras, the HS10 won't deliver the better resolution that RAW usually provides, but that's because RAW can't possibly overcome diffraction blurring that you get from the HS10's tiny sensor. Additionally, RAW imposes a much greater burden on the HS10 shooter than it would with almost any other camera, particularly non-Fuji cameras. Many of us have cameras that can rattle off a burst of a couple dozen RAW files in the time it takes the HS10 to shoot only one. Nobody has a reasonable expectation for the HS10 to be that fast, but neither should the HS10 be so slow . Next, the HS10's JPEG image files average about 4MB each in F (Fine) mode. M (Medium) mode shots are half that size. Fuji's RAW files are typically much larger than the RAW files from other cameras, and when the HS10 shoots RAW + JPEG it each up about 20MB of card space for each shot. So for those that use 4GB SDHC cards (generally the smallest available, regular 2GB SD cards can be found), RAW + JPEG mode would require 5 4GB cards to hold the same number of shots. How much would that add to the cost of an HS10?

It's really unconscionable to recommend the use of RAW + JPEG when you might influence a naive, newbie photographer to buy an HS10 only to find it so much slower and more costly to operate than his/her older camera that it's yet another HS10 that gets returned.

I know it is slower but, you have the Raw file to work with if the Jpeg is not adequate.

You know that it's slower, but there's slower and there's sloooooooower. I guess that you found it inconvenient to quantify the HS10's extreme slowness. Why was that?

Conversion in RFC is quite straightforward, and the level of adjustment parameters is extensive. Batch conversion only takes a few seconds per image, and you can use a master development parameter to do this. Again, not hard to set up.

Not hard for who, you? I know of at least one system that's unable to use Fuji's supplies RAW file converter and 'automatic' software updates fail. Or were you considering the purchase of additional non-Fuji RAW software to do the job? For many photographers conversion is far from being "quite straightforward", partially because of the plethora of adjustment parameters and partly because many will take quite a while getting up to speed understanding a lot of new concepts that didn't need to be learned to use plain old JPEG photos.

If you wish to shoot Jpeg only, use ISO 200 (or higher), DR 200%, and also set the EV to -0.3 EV. This helps keep everything under control.

I've found that the HS10 underexposes nearly every shot, so setting the EC to minus anything is unwise. I should correct that. In many parts of the world and in many lighting conditions the HS10 underexposes. With the brightly lit scenes that you prefer shooting, with lots of dark and bright extremes, negative exposure compensation does help protect from getting blown highlights, and increasing the DR setting can also help. But it's murder on shadow detail. RAW generally increases the usable dynamic range, adding protection for the HS10's tendency to blow highlights. RAW also gives you the ability to get the same increased DR that DR 200% provides. But the HS10 is probably best used as a JPEG only camera by most people.

If you still have a few days before you go, spend the time doing some experimental/test shots. This will be time very well spent.

Finally, some worthwhile advice!

Hope this helps a little.

Yes, the operative word being "little". BTW, I posted that portfolio/gallery that you were repeatedly asking about in "Where a DSLR fails." nearly 24 hours ago. Now that you have it you're ignoring it. Why am I not surprised?

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