Which of these lens has the best AF?

nbawden · Dec 24, 2009

Which of these lens has the best (most reliable) AF?

Canon 18-55 (IS)
Canon 10-22
Canon 55-250
Canon 18-200
Tamron 18-270

I am not asking about sharpness - I am asking about the one that gets you the highest number of keepers due to reliable AF.

I currently have the 18-55 IS and 50 1.8 & recently added the 10-22. I have always been dissapointed with my 18-55 (WAY less than 50% keepers) and I understand the hit & miss nature of the 50 1.8 - when I got the 10-22 I was surprised by the substantial increase in the number of shots wth accurate AF.

I am looking for a new lens from one of the last 3 in the above list for travel and despite the fact that the super zooms have IQ compromises I would go for one of them in a heart beat if one of them had AF reliablity like I am getting from my 10-22.

johgre · Dec 24, 2009

G'day mate

AF speed is quite a long story. What body do you have? Most modern DSLRS now have at least one AF point which is extra sensitive, ie recognises contrast differences horizontally as well as vertically. This has really improved AF speed and accuracy the last couple of years. However, I think these cross sensors only work with lenses that have a max aperture of f2.8 or greater - could be wrong.

All the lenses you mention are pretty slow and cheap with the exception of the 10-22 so will always struggle a bit in difficult conditions - low light, low contrast.

If I was to guess, I would say the 18-200 is probably the best of the super zooms as it's pretty new and not that cheap!

mr645 · Dec 24, 2009

I would say the 10-22. With such a focal length you would be hard pressed to miss focusing. A lot of AF performance depends on how the tools are being used, look for different techniques to improve your percentage of in focus shots.

brightcolours · Dec 24, 2009

Why don't you send your 18-55 IS to canon for calibration? It will most probably improve AF consistency.

The lenses you list are all over the place in focal range... not really a sensible post to reply to, this way...

nokem · Dec 24, 2009

--
Shoot.

Skip M · Dec 24, 2009

nbawden said:
I am not asking about sharpness - I am asking about the one that gets you the highest number of keepers due to reliable AF.

I currently have the 18-55 IS and 50 1.8 & recently added the 10-22. I have always been dissapointed with my 18-55 (WAY less than 50% keepers) and I understand the hit & miss nature of the 50 1.8 - when I got the 10-22 I was surprised by the substantial increase in the number of shots wth accurate AF.

I haven't used an 18-55 in years, but I do currently own the 50 f1.8. If you're getting less than a 50% keep rate due solely to AF errors with either of the lenses, the problem isn't the lens. On my 5D, I'd say focus errors with the 50 is in the neighborhood of 10-15%, i.e. 85-90 % keepers. I didn't use the 18-55 that came with one of our 20D very much, but I don't remember it having any issues, either. Your apparent DOF with the 10-22 is more likely responsible for the perceived increase in focus accuracy, I'm betting you have an AF problem with either the camera or the individual lenses, in otherwords, they need to be calibrated as someone else suggested. Or, it might be operator error, not dealing with narrow depths of field when wide open.
--
Skip M
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Breitling · Dec 25, 2009

Your list doesn't make sense since different lenses. Most likely slow shutter/exposure knowledge issue.

nbawden · Dec 25, 2009

Body is 450D

nbawden · Dec 25, 2009

I try to look for vertical edges with good contrast and try to avoid things being within the region of focus (twice the area indicated in the viewfinder) that is closer than what I want to focus on. Also I tend to stick with centre point only.

That is a reasonable starting point isn't it? or I am I way off base?

nbawden · Dec 25, 2009

I am thinking of sending body and all 3 lenses into Canon for calibration (out of warranty unfortunately). Any suggestions on the best way to pack a 450D, 18-55, 50 1.8 & 10-22 for safe courier transport?

007peter · Dec 25, 2009

I agree with Skip M, the problem could be your technique as well. What shutter speed are you using? Mirror Lockup? Tripod? LiveView? I notice using Live View + 10x magnification = perfect focus everytime. I suspect the lens is actually sharp, but 9 points AF pick the wrong AF points. Won't know till you post a sample photo with EXIF.

Skip M said:
nbawden said:

I am not asking about sharpness - I am asking about the one that gets you the highest number of keepers due to reliable AF.

I currently have the 18-55 IS and 50 1.8 & recently added the 10-22. I have always been dissapointed with my 18-55 (WAY less than 50% keepers) and I understand the hit & miss nature of the 50 1.8 - when I got the 10-22 I was surprised by the substantial increase in the number of shots wth accurate AF.

Click to expand...

I haven't used an 18-55 in years, but I do currently own the 50 f1.8. If you're getting less than a 50% keep rate due solely to AF errors with either of the lenses, the problem isn't the lens. On my 5D, I'd say focus errors with the 50 is in the neighborhood of 10-15%, i.e. 85-90 % keepers. I didn't use the 18-55 that came with one of our 20D very much, but I don't remember it having any issues, either. Your apparent DOF with the 10-22 is more likely responsible for the perceived increase in focus accuracy, I'm betting you have an AF problem with either the camera or the individual lenses, in otherwords, they need to be calibrated as someone else suggested. Or, it might be operator error, not dealing with narrow depths of field when wide open.
--
Skip M
http://www.shadowcatcherimagery.com
http://www.pbase.com/skipm
http://skipm.smugmug.com/
'Living in the heart of a dream, in the Promised Land!'
John Stewart

nbawden · Dec 25, 2009

The list may seem a bit inconsistent but I have listed 2 lenses I own (18-55 & 10-22) and the 3 that I am looking at for travel to supplement what I already have(the 55-250 only provides the reach I am missing and the 18-200 & 18-270 provide that as well as convenience for travel).

I keep hearing people talk about lens sharpness \ IQ a lot and I was trying to get an idea of AF reliability irrespective of sharpness.

Is there operator error on my part? - no doubt - at least to some extent.

Is there AF issues with my 450D? - I am reasonably certain but have never done anything about it because I was always nervous about posting the camera in for servicing. I was also concerned I was being sucked in by the number of people claiming correctly or otherwise that their 450D had AF issues.

My logic was that if the super zooms had AF reliability similar to the 10-22 then I could live with any issues with the 450D and could avoid servicing. I think I will bite the bullet and get the calibrated (out of warranty on everything except 10-22 but that is a grey import so probably won't be valid for warranty repair)

Breitling · Dec 25, 2009

nbawden said:
Is there AF issues with my 450D?

As I said - most likely problem with shutter speed and as result not focused shots. Examples/shots would help.

photonius · Dec 25, 2009

nbawden said:
The list may seem a bit inconsistent but I have listed 2 lenses I own (18-55 & 10-22) and the 3 that I am looking at for travel to supplement what I already have(the 55-250 only provides the reach I am missing and the 18-200 & 18-270 provide that as well as convenience for travel).

I keep hearing people talk about lens sharpness \ IQ a lot and I was trying to get an idea of AF reliability irrespective of sharpness.

Is there operator error on my part? - no doubt - at least to some extent.

Is there AF issues with my 450D? - I am reasonably certain but have never done anything about it because I was always nervous about posting the camera in for servicing. I was also concerned I was being sucked in by the number of people claiming correctly or otherwise that their 450D had AF issues.

My logic was that if the super zooms had AF reliability similar to the 10-22 then I could live with any issues with the 450D and could avoid servicing. I think I will bite the bullet and get the calibrated (out of warranty on everything except 10-22 but that is a grey import so probably won't be valid for warranty repair)

don't jump the gun. we don't know what your problem is.

of the lenses listed, the 55-250 IS and the canon 18-200 should be similar in terms of focusing, comparable to the 18-55. The tamron probably worse.

However, to start with, which focusing points are you using?

I was disappointed when using all 9 focus points on the 400D, because it would always select things in the foreground. Since I switched to center, no problem.

You would see this much more obviously as misfocus with the 18-55 than with the 10-22 due to the larger DOF of the 10-22.

--
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netgarden · Dec 25, 2009

I don't know about the lenses you are calibrating, but my 300f4 I just had done out of warranty and it cost $150. Worth it, but I often wonder, if you have to calibrate all of them, could it possibly be the camera? Do it first. Save ye alot of money. You could buy a great lens for what you will be paying for calibration of all your gear.

Good advice here on your post, and autofocus is more about assisting the focus point at the right spot rather than what lens you buy. Some of the cameras also focus lock better than others. It all depends on light, contrast and stability. One little twitch and your focus point will grab totally different.

All of them will serve better than a point and shoot though. They will also all focus faster. Read the canon help center. World of info there to help you work well with the camera gear you have.

And remember it's generally not what gear you have, but getting to know your gear, that makes good photographs.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
and

http://usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&articleID=3049&productID=329&articleTypeID=5
--

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nbawden · Dec 26, 2009

Links to some recent 18-55 shots in South Australia with reasonable shutter speed and center point focus (all hand held) - the links to the full size originals with Exif are below each reduction (Flikr seems to strip the Exif out on the reductions?). All of these seem to be off for AF? And these are nowhere near as bad as most (which I have deleted unfortunately).

I have noticed that with my 18-55 I get more keepers with IS OFF.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4214859685_8b0e63ebae_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2672/4214855825_c271202b9a_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4214851053_08f7cd6700_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2693/4215616638_cbca2a25e6_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2760/4215611822_c09f351c2d_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4215604508_bf5f797b68_o.jpg

photonius · Dec 26, 2009

nbawden said:
I try to look for vertical edges with good contrast and try to avoid things being within the region of focus (twice the area indicated in the viewfinder) that is closer than what I want to focus on. Also I tend to stick with centre point only.

That is a reasonable starting point isn't it? or I am I way off base?

ah, sorry didn't see you answered that already.

but still the question is, what is wrong with the 50% of images that are bad. front focus, back focus?
--
Life is short, time to zoom in ©

Breitling · Dec 26, 2009

You need to save Exif on your shots

photonius · Dec 26, 2009

nbawden said:
Links to some recent 18-55 shots in South Australia with reasonable shutter speed and center point focus (all hand held) - the links to the full size originals with Exif are below each reduction (Flikr seems to strip the Exif out on the reductions?). All of these seem to be off for AF? And these are nowhere near as bad as most (which I have deleted unfortunately).

I have noticed that with my 18-55 I get more keepers with IS OFF.

For these images, IS should not be necessary, i.e. sunny, should give decent shutter speed and aperture.

One thing to mention, when you use IS, do you wait long enough for the IS to settle? It is important to press the shutter half-way, wait 0.5 -1 sec, and then take the shot with IS on, otherwise the IS starts up and moves while you take the shot.

The images seem to indicate a consistent front focus, i.e. grass in the foreground is sharp, stuff at infinity is not so sharp (ignoring atmospheric haze for the moment). This could indeed be a camera/lens problem that needs to be calibrated. However, just to be sure, which exposure mode did you use: green, P, A, T? I presume not green?

--
Life is short, time to zoom in ©

nbawden · Dec 26, 2009

I am usually always in Av mode as I try to stick around f/8 - With the IS I have started to try and wait 1 second before taking the shot which seems a bit better but then I seem to run the risk of "swaying" in and out of the focal plane for low DOF shots .

Which of these lens has the best AF?

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