Old fashioned 1D/DS matter
I don't understand but I'll bite.
Using the "old" 1Ds you can pretty easily use spot meter in camera on manual mode and have your settings in place without "compensation" nearly instantly, use the meter scale on the right and dial out your aperture and/or shutter speed to what you want with thumb and index finger, it's easy.
You actually have six stops range in auto modes like av and tv too, not three, just use the multi-spot mode to get high and low values (several more if you think it helps), store them, and move compensation over the six stop range (not three) to where you know your processing skills can get the values you want out of the sensor.
If you want to make HDR composite using "compensation" then set camera + - so that final + is maximum luminance value from minus in the scene at hand regardless of where this sits from "average" value. For example, in AV and auto exposure bracketing mode use multi-spot metering and meter your dark/shadow area with lowest value, then meter your highlight/brightest value, and if you want also add what you consider the middle value; then adjust you exposure compensation if needed to fall within the bracketing range you want for your composite images and you have + - six stops in auto mode with a constant aperture (remember all this range of luminance is recorded in the scale on right side of viewfinder in this system since T90 came out). Using CF eight you can set the bracketing for 3/5/7 values between what you have established as the tonal range you want to capturel so seven exposures over six stops in more or less a full auto mode is pretty good for an "old fashioned" camera.
I probably misunderstood your statement/question, but with my 1Ds I was very pleased with the range of tones and luminance values that came out in prints compared to small format films. I don't recall off hand the the amount of exposure latitude with Kodachrome or Velvia, but if you were using minus three stops compensation with these slide emulsions I would say you have a very interesting metering technique.
Maybe you should look to at least 4x5 inch film or larger and do some research on developing techniques from Adams and the like for "old fashioned" tonal range type stuff and do contact prints, you won't likely beat the printed results with any digital sensor much less a small format digital like the 1Ds. I think this system has been in place since the Olympus OM-4T and then the Canon T90 for metering and exposure compensation, and then implemented on every one series body made by Canon.
Now if someone can show me how to get rid of the italicized part of this post... I can't see the underscore.
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