How easy is it to process your own B&W negatives at home?

Howie Feller

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I'm just curious... What kind of equipment would i need just to process the B&W negatives at home...

Anyone doing that... What kind of price are we looking at?

Thanks.
--
Regards, Howie
http://www.photosbyhowie.com
---The journey is the reward---
Nikon D3
FM, FE, F3,etc..
Lecia D-LUX 4
Leica M8 Black 28mm f2.8 Elmarit
Cv 35mm Color Skopar PII
Cv 15mm M mount on brown truck!
 
It will tell you how to do it and what you will need.

It takes little equipment if you just want to develope the film. Several site on Google will tell you what you need and where to get the chemicals

--
Greg Gebhardt in
Jacksonville, Florida
 
Howie, here's a great place to get supplies.
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/

Freestyle is basically a business that caters to film users. I think you could get started developing your own film for roughly $50 or so. For starters, you can use many items you might already have laying around the house. Save old juice, soda, or milk bottles to mix and store you chemicals in. Clips to hold the film while drying can be something as simple as the spring-type clothespins.

You're going to find a whole new way to enjoy photography. I know a lot of people have moved from film to digital over the years. I am one of them. But it's really surprising how many of those same people have returned to film and incorporate it into their photography, finding benifits to both. And them there are others, who have given up on digital all together. I don't ever see myself doing that, as I believe film/film cameras are just another tool and medium to use to get the job done. And the experience/adventure/journey of each helps to make one a more well-rounded photographer and artist. For those who have never developed their own film and made their own prints in a traditional wet darkroom, they are missing out on real educational and enjoyable experiences as a photographer.
---The journey is the reward---
Some people seem to forget that. Or possibly have never allowed themselves the freedom to enjoy that fundamental part of the creative process. Too bad.
Cv 15mm M mount on brown truck!
That's one that I'm considering myself. I hope to see some pictures from you when you get around to it.

--
  • markE
http://www.pbase.com/marke

'Good street/wildlife photography is a controlled accident,
a vision of preparation and surrender materialized.'

 
but it takes some practicing getting used to handling film and reels in the dark or in a changing bag.

You can develop Negatives and then scan them if you buy a scanner. Scanner should run around 400-700 bucks. the cheaper scanners i dont think work as well and can be frustrating.

You can develop and print, which requires an enlarger and a darkroom. Enlarger should run about 500 bucks or more.

The major issue is time .to develop negatives requires about a 1.5 hours to develop and dry. Then producing a contact print to see which negatives you wanna print.

Definitely different than digital. I think it depends on how patient you are.

You might wanna take a class to see what you're getting into before dropping dollars.

Good Luck!
 
If I may, I'd like to respectfully offer my own perspective on these points.
You can develop Negatives and then scan them if you buy a scanner.
Scanner should run around 400-700 bucks. the cheaper scanners i dont
think work as well and can be frustrating.
I personally don't have any experience with the better film scanners such as the Nikons or Minoltas. But if you don't use a scanner to print, or keep your prints to roughly 8x10, the sub $200 film scanners by Plustek work very well.
You can develop and print, which requires an enlarger and a
darkroom. Enlarger should run about 500 bucks or more.
That's if you buy new, and I can't see any reason to do that these days. There are SO many used enlargers out there that are in great shape and selling for chicken feed. I picked up a Beseler 23C II XL enlarger last fall for about $25. For 35mm and MF it's a great enlarger, and parts are easily available.
You might wanna take a class to see what you're getting into before
dropping dollars.
A VERY good idea. Even though I first began developing and printing about 35 years ago, I had been out of it for a long time. When I returned to film and considered souping my own again, I took a refresher darkroom course at the local university, just to see if I wanted to dive back in again.

--
  • markE
http://www.pbase.com/marke

'Good street/wildlife photography is a controlled accident,
a vision of preparation and surrender materialized.'

 
It's very easy. You can get everything you need for less then $100, including chemicals. Especially now, most photo stores just want to get rid of the film stuff. I just got an enlarger, so I might start making prints at home too. It's a great project to do with my son. He's 6 years old and probably the only kid in our neighborhood that even knows what film is.

It's really a fun time. I still shoot with B&W and I scan with a lowres $150 Epson scanner. It's perfect for web sized photos.
--
Jeff
 
great respones... thanks so much.

I have a nikon coolscan 2000 witch is 2700 dpi... i think that would be great.

haven't done the negative development in 20 + years so its almost new for me.

You have given some great suggestions and I thank you for that.
--
Regards, Howie
http://www.photosbyhowie.com
---The journey is the reward---
Nikon D3
FM, FE, F3,etc..
Lecia D-LUX 4
Leica M8 Black 28mm f2.8 Elmarit
Cv 35mm Color Skopar PII
Cv 15mm M mount on brown truck!
 
I'll just add some of my ideas to the excellent ones already posted.

When first starting just use one film and one developer. Consistency is the most important thing in the darkroom and it takes a while to get a good negative. Once you have got good results with your chosen combination then look to try other film and developer combinations. A good place to start is Kodak Tri-X and D76, or Ilford Delta 400 and D76.

If you are looking for more information try APUG forums

http://www.apug.org/forums/home.php
 
Howie,

Lots of good suggestions so far. Here are my own favorites. I would recommend the develop / scan / print route for the fastest way to get going and the least amount of space needed.

You will need a good stainless steel development tank ( http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CP9001/ ). Don't bother with plastic reels, I have had problems loading these - you won't find out until the end of the processing cycle when you find your film bent and ruined.

A lightproof tent ( http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/RM1000/ ). You can do development in your kitchen or bathroom.

Kodak HC110 developer concentrate - the very best film developer, IMHO. Long shelf life, easy to mix small quantities and no hassles with trying to measure dry powders for small batches.

A small plastic syringe for measuring HC110. Lots of info on dilutions available on the web.

Kodak Indicator Stop Bath ( http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/KP02024/ )
Kodak Rapid Fixer ( http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/KP02020/ )
Hypo clear for archival work ( http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/BR5810/ )

Stainless steel film clips and a dry dust-free place to hang and dry film.

A good scanner is a must if you want to do critical work. Nikon Coolscan 5000 is the best bet for home scanning, not cheap but great results.

--
Ramesh
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mare_imbrium/
 
You will need a good stainless steel development tank
( http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CP9001/ ). Don't bother with plastic
reels, I have had problems loading these - you won't find out until
the end of the processing cycle when you find your film bent and
ruined.
Good plastic reels and tanks are fine, but use more chemicals and are harder to clean. And once you get the hang of loading a GOOD SS reel, it's actually easier than the "easy" loading plastic ones. The trick is not to get the cheap SS reels. Hewes brand are the best. But I would suggest trying out Freestyle for your kit, as this same thing is nearly half the price than it is at Calumet:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/94321-Hewes-Student-Film-Processing-Kit?cat_id=1603

--
  • markE
http://www.pbase.com/marke

'Good street/wildlife photography is a controlled accident,
a vision of preparation and surrender materialized.'

 
I do my own B&W negatives, then scan and print. I love it. Some comments below.
You will need a good stainless steel development tank
( http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CP9001/ ). Don't bother with plastic
reels, I have had problems loading these - you won't find out until
the end of the processing cycle when you find your film bent and
ruined.
I would disagree somewhat with this. I am partial to SS reels and tanks myself. But I find more problems with SS reels. They last forever but they can be problematic to load if you're not experienced.

I also use Paterson plastic tanks and reels. I have NEVER had a problem loading those. Never bent and never ruined. I wish I could say the same about SS as I would prefer to use it.
Here's something to try. Don't use stop bath. Save the chemicals. Save some money. Several fast exchanges with water is all you need to stop the development process, especially if you are using diluted developer for more control of grain structure. If you are doing a fast development time then you may need quicker "stopping" power. But I generally develop in the 10-18 minute range and water is just fine. It's recommended actually, in the Kodak Developer's Cookbook.
A good scanner is a must if you want to do critical work. Nikon
Coolscan 5000 is the best bet for home scanning, not cheap but great
results.
I use a Nikon LS-8000 myself. The Coolscan 5000 is cheap in comparison :)
--
Mike Dawson
 
Hi Howie,

In addition to all the comments so far, have a look at Digital truth http://www.digitaltruth.com/ that has a good processing chart. Personally I like D76 as a dev. Also something often overlooked, ensure that your rinse water between chemicals is the same tempreture as the chemicals or you might induce reticulation. If you use a s/s hand tank, gently squeeze the film between your thumb and index finger and the film should load easily. You can always practice this in the light with a role of processed film. Finally, don't discard the film leader that you cut off as you can use it to test the "clearing time " of your fixer.

Regards,
Arthur
 
awesome comments... thanks so much to everyone. great information.

I currently have a Nikon LS 2000... it's 2700 dpi. hopefully this will be OK? Any comments on that?
--
Regards, Howie
http://www.photosbyhowie.com
---The journey is the reward---
Nikon D3
FM, FE, F3,etc..
Lecia D-LUX 4
Leica M8 Black 28mm f2.8 Elmarit
Cv 35mm Color Skopar PII
Cv 15mm M mount on brown truck!
 
You will need a good stainless steel development tank
( http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CP9001/ ). Don't bother with plastic
reels, I have had problems loading these - you won't find out until
the end of the processing cycle when you find your film bent and
ruined.
I would disagree somewhat with this. I am partial to SS reels and
tanks myself. But I find more problems with SS reels. They last
forever but they can be problematic to load if you're not experienced.
If you get the Hewes reels, it doesn't take much to learn at all. If you don't get the Hewes SS reels, well then...forget about it.
I also use Paterson plastic tanks and reels. I have NEVER had a
problem loading those. Never bent and never ruined. I wish I could
say the same about SS as I would prefer to use it.
Again, Hewes SS reels, the only ones you should consider. Never bent and never ruined. I wish I could say the same thing about plastic reels. :) And to top it off, it doesn't take as much chemicals to "top them off". ;)

--
  • markE
http://www.pbase.com/marke

'Good street/wildlife photography is a controlled accident,
a vision of preparation and surrender materialized.'

 
I have developed 35mm & medium format film since the late 50s and used plastic tanks & reels for all of that. I did give the stainless steel tanks & reels a good try, but ended up donating them to a school's photography dept. This is an area where some swear by SS tanks/reels and some swear at SS tanks/reels. I used many brands of the plastic stuff, from Agfa to Jobo and like every thing some are better than others. Now that we are so into digital, the equipment should be cheap enough to try every option. The trick is to keep the hassle out of the process, so that you can enjoy it.
--
Bob
 
I just developed my first roll this past weekend. I was scared to death to even try it, but then a bunch of really nice folks told me how easy it was and described it in such a way to make it much less scary.

It was about $100 worth of stuff....
-Changing Bag
-Chemicals - in my case Diafine, Kodak Rapid Fixer, PhotoFlo
-Developing Tank and reel(s) - Paterson or AP

-Some plastic measuring cups - graduates are the best way to go - I got one set that included many different sizes, plus 3 individual ones of the same size (300ml)
-a couple of funnels
-a pair of scissors
-bottle opener (the cheap metal hand-held one)
-latex or vinyl gloves

-3 (at least) 1 gallon contains - the ones made for photograph chemicals are cheap (dark brown)
-Film clips or clothes pins
-negative sleeves

I found it all through amazon.

The developing process (using Diafine - which is very stable and requires much less worry about temperature)

Mix all chemicals according to instructions into 1 gallon jugs using distilled water. Label all bottles clearly and date them (so you don't get them mixed up). Don't premix PhotoFlo.

Measure out how much of each you need (the size required for the developing tank you're using) into measuring graduates.

Measure out 1 equal container of distilled water.

Mix and measure out 1 equal container of PhotoFlo.

In changing bag, load film on reel and put it in developing tank. This is the hardest part! You'll have to practice with an old roll of film ahead of time so you can learn to do it "blind" (once your arms are inside the changing bag you can't see it and are working blind).

Once film is in the developing tank with lid locked in place, take it out of changing bag and you no longer need darkness.

Pour in Diafine A. Twist and rotate twice and tap on counter. Do this every minute for 4 minutes. Dump Dianfine A back in your mixed 1 gallon bottle of Diafine A (it's reusable!)

Pour in Diafine B. Twist and rotate twice and tap on counter. Do this every minute for 4 minutes. Dump Dianfine B back in your mixed 1 gallon bottle of Diafine B (it's also reusable!)

Pour in distilled water. Agitate for 30 seconds to a minute and dump down the drain.

Pour in Fixer. Twist and roatate twice and tap on counter. Repeat agitation every minute for 6-8 minutes. Dump fixer back in your mixed 1 gallon bottle of Fixer (it's reusable too!)

Rinse your film with tap water (some people prefer distilled). Fill the tank, agitate, dump. Repeat at last 5 times.

Pour in PhotoFlo. Gentle agitation for 1 minutes. Dump down drain.

Take out your film. It's now developed! Hang in your shower to dry (don't cut it yet). One clip at top where it hangs from, one clip at bottom to weigh it down so it doesn't curl. Leave it to dry. It should dry in 4-8 hours, but if you can leave it overnight, all the better.

Cut and put into sleeves :)

And all this sounds a lot more complicated than it is! It all happens in less than 30 minutes and the amazing feeling of satisfaction you'll feel after your first roll is great! I was like a kid on christmas morning. I've learned all this in the matter of the last two weeks... so DO NOT BE AFRAID! You CAN do it!

One disclaimer - Diafine "pushes" your film... so 400 you have to shoot at 800 or 1250 and 100 your have to shoot at 200 or 400. Rodinal (another developer) is supposed to be very easy to use too (though I haven't tried) and doesn't push your film. I decided to start with Diafine because it's so easy.

Amy

One of my first developed photos:



--



Creativity is allowing yourself to make mistakes. Art is knowing which ones to keep.
http://www.DangRabbit.com | http://www.PetSnapshots.com
 
Its easy.

BUT! (ive done it for going on 12 years so practice makes perfect)

Its very cheap and you dont need much.

Chemicals (Bought at a local camera shop or online)

-Light proof bag

-Metal reel (Avoid plastic, which are easier to learn on but are not viable long term)
-Cansiter (For reel and chems)
-Can opener to open 35mm case inside bag
-Scissors to cut both ends clean

Take some old expired film and practice rolling film onto reel, at first in the light and then in the bag (Go to local cam shop and theyll generally give you old expired stock for practice)

Didn't read the above comments but thought I'd chime in! Also, expiriment and make the prints your own. Some devo's will give sharper grain, some will have better gradiation. It gives you more control.

best luck!
--
-Blake

Find the lens that enables you to capture your vision, not what others use to capture
theirs.
 
Wow Amy that was great.... All I have to do is follow your list.... Thanks for taking the time to do that... I haven't processed film in over 30 years..... and it felt like starting all over again.

Now it's time to get the ball rolling.

Thanks to all.
--
Regards, Howie
http://www.photosbyhowie.com
---The journey is the reward---
Nikon D3, FM, FE, F3,etc..
Lecia D-LUX 4, Leica M8 Black 28mm f2.8 Elmarit
Cv 35mm Color Skopar PII, Cv 15mm M mount!
 

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