Advice about a reversed lens

Started Jan 25, 2009 | Discussions thread
OP dlakier Regular Member • Posts: 107
Re: You're controlling the wrong lens...

Joseph S Wisniewski wrote:

dlakier wrote:
I'm sorry, but on a D50, this "tedium" is just something you have to
deal with. You always need to control aperture via the reversed lens,
whether it's directly on the camera or reversed in front of a lens
mounted on the camera. (or add an extra "inter-lens" aperture in
between a pair of coupled lenses. That improves the results, and
increases the tedium).

I did not know this. This will make it very hard for me to use G lenses reversed, but should not be a problem for my 50/1.8.

Why do I need to use the reversed ring's aperature controls? I believe you, I am just interested in why.

The only "solution" to the tedium is a gadget called the Nikon BR-6,
which attaches to a reversed lens and lets you stop it down and fire
the camera using a dual cable release. The only problem is that
Nikon's dual cable releases cannot work with the D50 (or D40, D60,
D70, D80, or D90). There is a mechanical dual release that works with
the ancient D100, and an electrical release that works with D700,
D300, D3, D200, D2X, D2H, D1X, and D1H.

I'll stick with turning the aperature ring.

The best way to control aperture on a pair of face to face 50mm
lenses is the "inter-lens aperture". You set both lenses wide open,
and mount an additional aperture mechanism in between them, in the
macro coupler itself. I built one using two 62mm Cokin P-rings ($7
each) and an Edmund Optics aperture (about $60).

Now this sounds hard core!

And I built a

coupler with a "Waterhouse Stop" holder from a pair of P-rings for
the princely price of about $14. To use it, you slip in a number id
cardboard sheets, each containing a round hole (the "Waterhouse
stop") of various sizes. If you think your current system involves
tedium...

Sounds too delicate for me!

Both front and rear lens get focused to infinity when coupling.
Focusing is done by moving the camera with a device called a
"focusing rail".

How does the rail work when you are not in a studio setting?

Thanks for all the info!

-Dan

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