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FL 50r Wireless Question

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artforme

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So I tried reading all of the Olympus material on the topic, but as you probably know, they are not the best with manuals.

I would like to say thanks again for all the input on the last question I had, as it helped greatly!

This time I just had another general question about the manual, that I thought was confusing:

"(Page 35) Note !: In RC mode the built-in flash of the camera is used to send the remote control signal and therefore cannot be used as a flash."

But from my understanding, the exact opposite is true when in RC mode. Since the built-in flash is used to send the signal it can not 'not' be used as a flash. So I'm confused on whether or not I should worry (or consider) about my camera's built in flash when setting up my lighting or not. Or is the light from the built-in flash so minimal that I should not worry when making my composition? I did some test shots while in RC mode and noticed that my camera was picking up the built-in flash in some circumstances. I'm sure this is not a big deal at all, just looking for some more clarity on the issue.

I want to get all the basics down before I move on. :)

Thanks for your help again!
 
But presumably, the built in flash is sending pre-flash signals to trigger the main off-camera flash(es) for the actual time of exposure.

In other words, the work is being done entirely by your off-camera flash(es) - directed by the built in flash unit.

Best to play for yourself and see how it works, if you have an F!50R?

Kind Regards

Brian
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Yeah, that was my understanding as well. (And yes I recently got the FL50r)

But to test to see if the on camera flash was doing anything I put the camera in RC flash mode but had the fl50r turned off, thus the only flash would be coming from the built-in flash. And it turned out that the built-in flash did affect the exposure.

But maybe it's such a small amount that maybe I should not worry about it; but I'm curious if anyone has a solid answer. Because Olympus's documentation leads you to believe one thing, yet in practice I find it to be another...
 
In theory the built in flash is not used. What the manual is trying to say is that you can't just set your built in flash because it's being used to send encoded signals. And in theory no light from the built in flash is used.

In practice your built in flash is used to send the encoded signals and in some cases your camera will also pick it up. The stronger your remote flashes, the less your camera picks up your built in to the point of being negligible. I haven't tried too many combinations and permutations but I have found if you are doing macro shooting (which is a weird setup for remote flashes anyway) then your built in flash will probably be picked up in some degree by the camera.

You are going to have to try it out for you photos and see what you get with a simple test shot per setup, but in general if you are somewhat far away and have some power in the flashes it will be negligible.

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Raist3d (Photographer & Tools/Systems/Gui Games Developer)
Andreas Feininger (1906-1999) 'Photographers — idiots, of which there are
so many — say, “Oh, if only I had a Nikon or a Leica, I could make great
photographs.” That’s the dumbest thing I ever heard in my life. It’s
nothing but a matter of seeing, and thinking, and interest. That’s what
makes a good photograph.'
 
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Thanks, that info makes since and clears up the confusion.

The reason why I was concerned is because I plan on shooting with my first model using strobes some what soon. So I'm trying to get all the basics down. I'll be working mostly with the 50mm, so I'll be somewhat close. I understand it is mostly all about ratios; so of course the 50r would way overpower the built-in flash. But at the same time I want to be aware of all light in my composition.

So thanks!

Edit: Maybe the manual should have a note about the note.
 
1. you can select the power of the controller function to suit the working distances and likely sensitivity

2. only at extremes will even the highest setting impact on your exposure, and even here it will be more of a awareness that it's there than an real impact on the resulting image

this is easy to show by setting it to max, dialing the remote back to -5 and putting it pointing the wrong way etc in a darkish room blah blah blah

overall - just ignore it but set it to the minimum intensity for the sort of shooting you have described above.

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  • enjoy your camera equipment -
 
you try out the setups you plan to do. Try with a maniquin, objects, yourself, etc.- whatever works. It's a way to know the equipment and what it does with this remote flash feature, and you get more confidence on the outcome.

I did try the FL50Rs I have a few times. I need to explore more of the Flash photography, I got an idea recently on something to do due to a website I read something on that gave me one (I think it was strobist).

I did try it when I got it at first outside and indoors. Be warned that outside, to trigger the flash you really need the flash sensor to be aiming at the camera within a certain angle (you may know this, but just want to make sure). Indoors the camera flash bounces (unless the space is too big) so the flashes catch the signal. Outside they won't though there can be some tricks to put some bounce papers or such so they get it.
artforme said:
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Thanks, that info makes since and clears up the confusion.

The reason why I was concerned is because I plan on shooting with my
first model using strobes some what soon. So I'm trying to get all
the basics down. I'll be working mostly with the 50mm, so I'll be
somewhat close. I understand it is mostly all about ratios; so of
course the 50r would way overpower the built-in flash. But at the
same time I want to be aware of all light in my composition.

So thanks!

Edit: Maybe the manual should have a note about the note.
Click to expand...
--
Raist3d (Photographer & Tools/Systems/Gui Games Developer)
Andreas Feininger (1906-1999) 'Photographers — idiots, of which there are
so many — say, “Oh, if only I had a Nikon or a Leica, I could make great
photographs.” That’s the dumbest thing I ever heard in my life. It’s
nothing but a matter of seeing, and thinking, and interest. That’s what
makes a good photograph.'
 
I guess in FP though you do lose some flash power?

--
Raist3d (Photographer & Tools/Systems/Gui Games Developer)
Andreas Feininger (1906-1999) 'Photographers — idiots, of which there are
so many — say, “Oh, if only I had a Nikon or a Leica, I could make great
photographs.” That’s the dumbest thing I ever heard in my life. It’s
nothing but a matter of seeing, and thinking, and interest. That’s what
makes a good photograph.'
 
Yes definitively. I think it's good to know the parameters and know the options for sure. I appreciate you bringing this option up quite a bit, and thanks for researching it.
Goffen said:
I have no clue as to how significant it is. But it's nice to know
that its possible to completely disable the popup's light
contribution if needed.

Goffen

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http://www.flickr.com/goffen



http://bighugelabs.com/flickr/dna.php?username=goffen
Click to expand...
--
Raist3d (Photographer & Tools/Systems/Gui Games Developer)
Andreas Feininger (1906-1999) 'Photographers — idiots, of which there are
so many — say, “Oh, if only I had a Nikon or a Leica, I could make great
photographs.” That’s the dumbest thing I ever heard in my life. It’s
nothing but a matter of seeing, and thinking, and interest. That’s what
makes a good photograph.'
 
marking this thread for future reference
--

There's not 2 but 3 sides to every story. Theirs, yours, and what really happened.
 
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