45mm or 90mm TS lens for portraits?

keatonandrew

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Hello folks,

I am planning my next lens purchase. I have decided on a tilt shift lens for more creative portraiture work. This will be on a 5D

now, I have no experience with any TS lenses, so if there's anyone who knows the difference in the 90 and the 45, that would be greatly appreciated. I am looking mostly for the creative focusing effects I can get with it, not for architectural uses or anything like that.

I might end up renting both of them to compare.

Any ideas or recommendations between the two? For an idea of how I do some of my portraits, look at the first few photos on my website. I've started using ND filters with lighting gear outdoors to blur backgrounds, and I want to combine that with a TS lens.

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http://www.keatonandrew.com (my portfolio)
 
I have used the 24mm on a 20d for half body shots in a doco portraiture setup. In order to see the difference you have to soot wide open [f3.5]with max tilt/swing. The 8 degrees in not enough for the small format. I understand the DOF will make the 45mm a better choice on full frame. I personally don't like the flattening the 90mm gives, but could assume the effects are worth the expense when the other two have been used a lot.

The sharpness of the 24mm wide open is not the best by any means. The lock-off's are very poor and there is always slippage. I am waiting for an upgrade of these lenses.
 
All three of these lenses are great for what they allow you to do. The 90mm has the best performance in fact, it's a case of the 'look' of 90mm. Going by what you have on your site i'd say the 45mm would be my recommendation unless you are planning a different series. All are worth getting and like i said, the effect is not as grand as large format because of the small image circle and small movements.
 
You might want to play with a lensbaby (cheap) first. It isn't exactly a T-S lens, but works on the same concept.
 
Hire one and see if it works for you. TS-e lenes are quite difficult to use and require patience to get the best out of them. Some photographers get TS-e's and find them too much hassle, others love their results.

I have a TS-e 45mm, which I like very much but I hardly use it. It's not an easy to use lens and your subject/model will need patience too. It's a manual focus lens and the point of focus shifts when you swing the lens.

Regards,
Gareth Cooper
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http://www.GMCPhotographics.com (weddings)
http://www.pbase.com/gazzajagman (other stuff)

'Science is what we dream of, technology is what we are stuck with' Douglas Adams
 
The question that matters is how many people in a photo, and if only one, how much of that person?

Looking at the opening page of your web site, I see you take a lot of portraits of groups. With a 90 on a 5D you'll have to back up into the next country.

For three-quarter body shots of one person, and groups, the 45 is far the better choice.

You can do a lot of focus tricks by putting some Vasaline on part of a a polarizer, and then turnign the polarizer until the Vaseline makes the parts you want fuzzy, fuzzy. Save money and get a polarizer that fits normal and short telephoto lenses.
 
this will be for portraits of one person

I'd probably use them more for 3/4 or half length body shots, so it seems the 45 might be a better choice. I do understand the issues with the TS lenses, and I will quite gladly accept that in order to get this effect!

Lens babies don't really interest me much.. I may still get one, but I still need good image quality, and the LB look doesn't do the same thing for me that I really like about the TS lenses I've seen.

It was either a 70-200 2.8, 135 2L, or a TS, and I see myself using the TS to make money more often than the other lenses.

I think I will rent one or two... midwest photo down in columbus isn't too far away, and I know they have some in stock.
--
http://www.keatonandrew.com (my portfolio)
 
I have both the TS-e 24 & 45mm and once borrowed the 90mm. Great lenses for their purpose but with a learning curve as others mentioned here already.

You should also be aware of exposure reading. The tilt or shift movement gives an inaccurate auto-exposure, hence you should switch to manual exposure, metering the light before using the lens movements.
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Best regards,
Paul
 

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