S2 Users? STD/ORG/ORG?

Do you use STD ORG ORG? Or something else for JPEG? What do you use for portraits? What do you use for lanscapes?
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-thedeveloper

Generall with the S2 Pro, it was Org color, Org tone, Std sharpening. For printing straight from the file, you could do Org, Org, Hard sharpening.

For landscapes, you might pump up the color to STD or HIGH color, for more saturated color.

Anthony

The Developer said:

Do you use STD ORG ORG? Or something else for JPEG? What do you use
for portraits? What do you use for lanscapes?
--
-thedeveloper

Click to expand...

--
check out my blog at http://anthonyonphotography.blogspot.com

If you do a search of the archives, you'll find many threads about this issue. Most pros seemed to prefer ORG/ORG/OFF.

I shoot mostly landscapes and macros, have had my S2 since '03. After trying many of the other settings, I prefer the flexibility that the above settings give me. I like doing all my sharpening in PP. More control.

I especially love Fuji color in straight out of the camera jpegs. The way it handles subtle neutrals is amazing, with little PP required for many subjects. Again, if I decide to enhance one color over another, I prefer to do this in Photoshop. YMMV. of course. Color is an individual thing.

René
Thinkin' about the S5 for DR.

I see that my opinion is somewhat different, but I´ve always found the best results to be STD, STD, STD.

Regards,

Mark

I used to use Std sharpening but found that the sharpening artefacts were noticable, especially in large format landscape prints.

Now I mostly use Org, Org, Off but with memory cards so cheap and PCs so fast, I nearly always shoot Raw and "develop" afterwards using the EX converter. This way I can decide afterwards what is best for the particular shot. For instance Org colour is generally best for people, Std colour can help with landscapes. And the EX converter I use allows exposure adjustments as fine as 1/6 stop.

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Doug Jones
somewhere in the Indian Ocean

You don't need to sharpen if you use a good quality prime (or the very best zooms) - especially for prints. I only sharpen small resized images I intend for Web viewing.

--
Doug Jones
somewhere in the Indian Ocean

Good point Doug, I rarely sharpen any of my work which of course makes PP much quicker.

Carl

The Developer said:

Do you use STD ORG ORG? Or something else for JPEG? What do you use
for portraits? What do you use for lanscapes?
--
-thedeveloper

Click to expand...

I use ORG ORG STD for portrait or bridals, the lower and smoother tone is welcome, the colors quite strong enough for that purpose ! Even in landscapes I might go ORG STD STD but rarely like STD STD STD as then things get a bit artificial looking, to my eye anyway.

RAW is probably best with all ORG, my Hyper Utility is on an old 98 machine though and Bibble Pro doesn't handle Fuji files all that well ( my converter I use for multi camera brands generally) and I bought the S2 years ago knowing that the jpegs were very good, so I use the highest jpeg setting mostly. In fact I've never shot wedding photos with the S2 in anything but jpeg, though have done some landscapes in RAW.

David

Do the STD/ORG settings even make a difference to the RAW data captured? I was under the impression that these settings behaved like whitebalance, essentially affecting only the JPG engine...

The Developer said:

Do you use STD ORG ORG? Or something else for JPEG? What do you use
for portraits? What do you use for lanscapes?
--
-thedeveloper

Click to expand...

Lately I've been shooting my S2's on fine 4256 rez JPG, with STD color, STD tone and STD sharp for everything. I like the results.

Basically you are in ORG when going into the converter, that's why I said shoot in ORG but guess it really wouldn't matter as you say.

One thing I like about my Nikons and Nikon NX as a converter is it will honor in camera settings.

David

Denyerec said:

Do the STD/ORG settings even make a difference to the RAW data
captured? I was under the impression that these settings behaved like
whitebalance, essentially affecting only the JPG engine...

Click to expand...

I have traditionally used ORG/ORG/OFF mostly because I prefer to add them in post. The S2 will blow the red channel very easily and ORG color helps with that IMHO. The S2 DR is narrow enough to warrant ORG on the tone and for sharpening, I simply prefer to sharpen on a capture by capture basis.

Best regards-

Karbo

--
Passing the torch of knowledge is a genetic responsibility.

http://photo.karywall.net/

--
-thedeveloper

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The S2 is a wonderful portrait camera. I have two of the as well as the S3. For studio I use org/org/std. For landscapes I use std on all. I think the buffer on the S2 is a bit faster than the S3. For accurate flesh tones the S3 is my preference. With these 3 great cameras, I have not purchased the S5. Maybe in a year or two.

For 1600 iso I use org, org, off.

For general stuff I use std, std, off.

For socer games & some landscapes, I used high, std, off.

I usually do no sharpening unless I plan to print large, then I do it pp.

--
I take lots of pictures.
Sometimes I even make a photograph.
http://leeper.smugmug.com/

For the S2 Pro, no. If you shoot RAW, you can select the same settings in post processing as you could if you had set them on the camera, ie color, tone and sharpness.

Anthony

The Developer said:

--
-thedeveloper

Click to expand...

--
check out my blog at http://anthonyonphotography.blogspot.com

My first answer is no it should not matter. However I was always taught to live by the S2's histogram and it shows a marked difference in the red channel between ORG and HIGH. Go figure...

Best regards-

Karbo

--
Passing the torch of knowledge is a genetic responsibility.

http://photo.karywall.net/

RAW captures the data as is from the sensor before any preferences are applied. However if you only have the LE converter that came with the camera then it will only apply the settings you had the camera set at when the shot was taken.

However if you have the purchased EX converter (or any other third party compatible converter) then you can select the settings you want when you "develop" the raw output. You can also vary the exposure down a stop and up 3 stops in 1/6 f stop increments. It also gives you the ability to apply manually curved tonal modifications, etc. You get instant feedback in the sample image displayed and more importantly in the colour histograms which give you very good insight into when a colour is about to "blow".

Very flexible, especially with tone and exposure because the raw data has greater depth than normal 24bit jpeg output. I have tried other converters but get the best colours and sharpness from the EX converter (for me) even if it is a bit slow to use sometimes. However it does have batch convert capabilities in versions released sometime after the S2 release. The original EX converter was a bit limited in some capabilities.

hope this helps
--
Doug Jones
somewhere in the Indian Ocean

One other pref I have found : that in S2 low-light shots, the low-key ORG
setting creates a more appealing colour balance than STD or HIGH.

Keith



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